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2010-02-12
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FOR THE FULL PHOTOS COLLECTIONS, YOU COULD VISIT SUPPLEMENTARY PHOTOS SITE @ Well I arrived here mainly for 1 thing, Chef Signoretti's interpretation of the TAGLIATELLE AL RAGU BOLOGNESE. Except I skipped the 17th altogether because that critical phonecall beforehand reconfirmed the suspicion that Head Chefs usually have their designated day-off on Sundays. Its all part of work training & due diligence. Tell u a short story 1st though. Apart from during the first few months of barely r
Well I arrived here mainly for 1 thing, Chef Signoretti's interpretation of the TAGLIATELLE AL RAGU BOLOGNESE. Except I skipped the 17th altogether because that critical phonecall beforehand reconfirmed the suspicion that Head Chefs usually have their designated day-off on Sundays. Its all part of work training & due diligence. Tell u a short story 1st though. Apart from during the first few months of barely resettling into HK and needing to play catch up with the local food scenery, I never again took up much effort indulging myself with food magazines on a regular basis. Time is limited afterall - although if I had spare time and randomly happened upon the odd issue of free press in cafes or 飲食男女 at my hairdresser and if I found the topics interesting enough I'll take a quick browse. The impetus to look out for free mags never appealed before either, until I rediscovered ones such as BC Magazine , as the Staff Writer there appears remotely 'interesting' and seemingly carries a supernatural ability to be bi-located in more than 1 space-time at any moment, him always up-to-date with the latest info or scandals before everyone on the planet - that's provide I can locate a copy of BC at all lately! Nevertheless whilst at it I've also grown a wholly new habit of browsing through some of the HK Magazine selections!
Granted I still have trouble working out who actually writes what or how regular the publication is printed, but having now read a few of their latest issues for the past 1 or 2 months - I surprisingly discovered that a lot of what Dorothy & others recommend are coincidentally the type of food that I ardently crave the most! Its oh-so handy! Yep - with the benefit of hindsight I now lament my late start following her useful column, I had absolutely no excuse to have skipped the line of back issues during that past year: there's only so much energy or tentacles an individual can extend out to feel around for every new shop or to receive restaurant updates unless you're half-a foot in the food trade. Its out of my league! So upon reading a recent preview in HK Mag of the upcoming Sabatini event which promotes the Italian Day and my beloved, authentic, Bologna-styled Tagliatelle with Ragu Sauce pasta, I found myself a perfect excuse to once again set foot into this venerable Italian institution for yet another trial, and that's after so many years of absence and a handful of chefs that have come and gone in the mean time. Thanks then.
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Olive Oil & Balsamic Vinegar -
The Oil isn't overly aromatic or deep in flavour. Balsamic was a bit corrosive leading to a seizure in the throat. Arrgh.
Bread Basket with Dips -
Came with a few dips, the soft-styled Grissini's were quite-good and fresh, its rare to find though I havne't eaten at Grissini's to compare yet. The crispy Carta di Musica sheets were stunning too. Bread basket was surprisingly better than so many Italian restaurants, eg. Zefferino's, Da Domenica, Mistral or even the new 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo by Bombana.
Sauteed Duck Liver with Peach, Mousse of Duck Leg Confit & Vin Santo Sauce -
We didn't want to order any Parma Ham this time as I have had them before and also tried some at the Food & Wine festival. Unless its the ultra premium Italian Parmas, nothing so far had convinced me from surrendering that soft 'ham' spot for aged Iberian Jamon's. I was more interested to try their cooking skills anyway, so let's go with the Duck Foie Gras as a genuine test! This was exceptionally well, the mousse of leg confit sandwiched with bread triangles and the sweet wine reduction was spot on. Simple Trattoria fare done right, but for $300+ dollars for 2 pieces?
'Stracciatella' of Beef & Capon Consomme with Beaten Egg, Parmesan & Parsley -
A little bland here - a capable consomme should carry clarity of depth but without overpowering nuances. Eggs here were much stronger than the too weak a soup base.
House-Made Tagliolini Bianchi e Nero with Tuscan Sausage, Cherry Tomato & Black Truffle -
A specially ordered hybrid dish, the house-made Pasta consists of both black and white noodle strands. The Tuscan sausages were bold and spiced, this dish reminds of Da Domenico's so-called Ragu Tagliatelle. Initially no Black Truffle taste was detectable, yet our calm waiter radiating out his 'almost' believable look of penitence, rectified our initial dissatisfaction upon returning the same dish from the kitchen within barely a few minutes. Swift, efficient and professional indeed. This dish is abnormally similar to the below dish, perhaps a strategic ordering mistake but it wasn't my order but a dining companion's so it was a good test to try 2 types of pastas nevertheless. Tagliolini was a little over-cooked, though not mushy.
Tagliatelle al Ragu Bolognese -
The Ragu here is the AUTHENTIC translation straight from Bologna and unlike the GVSTO version months ago this was properly slow-cooked, the meat having released their gravy then softened up, before soaking back up its own juice as well as that of other sauces, wine and herbs, it carried an adequate flavouring depth. This was the 'coltello' hand-diced version too, not machine minced or shredded, it carried less heartily herbal or wines influence as we anticipated, especially after trying the Bistecca Steak House's sophisticated version. Albeit here its using a combo of chopped beef and pork rather than wild boar for the base ragout. This Tagliatelle tonight was also hand-made, but beware that half of all pastas in Sabatini are commercial ones! It was boiled a little too soft without springiness, lacking egginess or wheats taste - in this aspect it will disappoint, although in reality it was acceptable just not as enjoyable as its supporting ragu sauce.
Tiramisu & St Honore Cake -
The St Honore Cake was exactly what one expects, a little rich and by itself alone already overshoots the daily allowance of sugar intake, the profiterole ball came with a thick toffee crunch. Acceptable, but its more about the 'drama' when the cake is firstly selected by you from the dessert chariot then hand sliced infront of you as an entertaining factor. The Tiramisu here however was disappointing this very night, was it a dud? I have had the Fine Food's Tiramisu cake before from downstairs and that was better than this. Tonight, it was slightly rough rather than smoothly textured, too cloying overall, the internal savoiardi fingers also carried little traces of any marsala nor enough espresso contribution. The top layer of Mascarpone cream really carried too little cheese or egginess as it should, and I have my suspicions as to why too: to me, it tasted like it was over-powered by White Chocolate, which they seem to have used to set the Tiramisu (cake) so that it won't melt at room temperature on the dessert chariot. I love W. Choco mind you, but not when its ruining the balance of the Tiramisu. I had better at Da Domenico or TIVO or even COVA. (Or at home, using my secret recipe )
Pasticcini Tower -
The top chocolates layers quite very sweet, with a lot of marzipane or coconuts as a filler - they tasted just like See Candie's. The biscotti below were much better but also quite sweet. Oh well, that's how it should be I guess.
WINE: Bolgheri Rosso 2007 -
For $340, its not cheap for a carafe. Nevertheless, acceptable. A bit of violet and black berries, slightly oaky. Medium-dry and tannins were approachable. Slightly above normal house-wine quality, very suitable with the food.
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AT $800 plus per person even before the Carni or Pesce Course was ordered, since we reserved room for exploring dessert, this experience was sheer opulence only justifiable if you can bear to exonerate yourself in believing that fine-dining equates to eating in cavern like dining-halls with artificially fabricated ambiance (think La Taverna or Ole). Although let's not rob it of the genuinely warm and professional service. The enjoyment had little to do with their capability or lack of it to dish out 5-Star Italian food, as the price might have misled us to believe. Ming you its actually not that bad - and considering the overall entirety of things, this encounter could still impress those who dig it.
Yet the hedonist within me remains unwavered as that part of me naturally protested to the soft flappy pasta strands, slightly boring sauces & recipes, the poor presentation of the food overally and the low tiramisu quality tonight. These were there for all to see and don't lie - if they can't get trattoria-styled dishes done perfectly at gross inflated prices, it has failed the customers in a sense. As an overall package however, it was a fun 'singular' experience and hence the reluctant smiling face, it certainly does make for an interesting venue for that occasional anniversary celebration. With an ever burgeoning selection of nice dining spots in town nowadays, unless you can come out on the right side of appreciating what, how or why a Mexican-styled band is doing here blasting out 月亮代表我的心 in a supposedly Top Class Italian Restaurant, serving $300 entrees and main courses, then perhaps you will find your groove here afterall. If you come for their '3' to low '4' Quality food, I'd probably suggest its not intrinsically sound as a preposition. 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo or the likes of Amber for food are better options personally, or Petrus for both environment and food is more balanced as an experience. Da Domenico on the other hand, at least sends out a decent Tiramisu and cooks pastas properly.
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