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Level4
2023-02-10 2487 views
如果說在旅行之後, 最掛念香港的, 必然是點心和傳統粵菜菜式, 在未有粵菜Fine Dining化之前, 利苑可算是高質粵菜的代表. 就算現在星級粵菜餐館成行成市, 利苑在我心目中的地位, 絕對比其他屋村酒樓又或是連鎖酒樓高得多, 除了是因為菜式水準外, 也是因為它對現代粵菜的貢獻, 以及老闆陳老先生的傳奇性.今次來到北角的分店, 原來已有四十多年歷史, 基本上有城市花園就有這家利苑. 可惜的是, 點心水準的參差, 令人失望. 燒賣無論是大小和味道, 和叮叮點心的分別不太大, 不再吃得出蝦肉及冬菇等材料的味道與層次. 蝦餃皮太厚, 內裡和蝦肉餡黏在一起, 也令我搖頭嘆息. 楊枝甘露由利苑發明, 但吃起來椰奶味和西柚的苦味, 比芒果果味突出, 比不少坊間的糖水舖更差.保持水準的, 就是其蘿蔔類的點心, 蘿蔔絲酥餅外層酥香, 層次分明, 煎蘿蔔糕的外表香脆. 蘿蔔甘甜, 沒有出水太多, 令其糊化. 我還是抱有一絲希望, 希望其回復水準, 不要不斷被摘星, 然後落得”泯然眾人矣”的命運.The North Point Branch of Lei Garden has been establi
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如果說在旅行之後, 最掛念香港的, 必然是點心和傳統粵菜菜式, 在未有粵菜Fine Dining化之前, 利苑可算是高質粵菜的代表. 就算現在星級粵菜餐館成行成市, 利苑在我心目中的地位, 絕對比其他屋村酒樓又或是連鎖酒樓高得多, 除了是因為菜式水準外, 也是因為它對現代粵菜的貢獻, 以及老闆陳老先生的傳奇性.

今次來到北角的分店, 原來已有四十多年歷史, 基本上有城市花園就有這家利苑. 可惜的是, 點心水準的參差, 令人失望. 燒賣無論是大小和味道, 和叮叮點心的分別不太大, 不再吃得出蝦肉及冬菇等材料的味道與層次. 蝦餃皮太厚, 內裡和蝦肉餡黏在一起, 也令我搖頭嘆息. 楊枝甘露由利苑發明, 但吃起來椰奶味和西柚的苦味, 比芒果果味突出, 比不少坊間的糖水舖更差.

保持水準的, 就是其蘿蔔類的點心, 蘿蔔絲酥餅外層酥香, 層次分明, 煎蘿蔔糕的外表香脆. 蘿蔔甘甜, 沒有出水太多, 令其糊化. 我還是抱有一絲希望, 希望其回復水準, 不要不斷被摘星, 然後落得”泯然眾人矣”的命運.

The North Point Branch of Lei Garden has been established for 40 years. Lei Garden is the legacy for HK Cantonese cuisine. It is quite sad that the quality of different branches had dropped a lot and had been removed in Michelin Guide. The sui mai is like the microwave goods and the shrimp dumplings are so sticky. The mango pudding is too bitter and too coconut while the mango flavour had gone. Only radish dim sum can keep the quality. It may not longer be the legacy but just a chain stored restaurant only.
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(The above review is the personal opinion of a user which does not represent OpenRice's point of view.)
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