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2017-02-13 1006 views
Northern style dumpling shops in Hong Kong typically have not aged well for me. The more time I spend in mainland China, and the more my Chinese in-laws cook dumplings  for me, the less impressed I am by dumpling places that in the past did the trick. This place, though, is an exception. My wife and I first went to Ho Hak Shan Tung (literally meaning "Hospitable Shandong") maybe two years ago, and we were impressed. But, we were both pessimistic about its fate, as these places tend to come and g
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Northern style dumpling shops in Hong Kong typically have not aged well for me. The more time I spend in mainland China, and the more my Chinese in-laws cook dumplings  for me, the less impressed I am by dumpling places that in the past did the trick. This place, though, is an exception. My wife and I first went to Ho Hak Shan Tung (literally meaning "Hospitable Shandong") maybe two years ago, and we were impressed. But, we were both pessimistic about its fate, as these places tend to come and go, and since it is on a pretty awkward and unpleasant street, being basically impossible to see from the two busier roads that flank it. We stumbled upon it by dumb luck, but lots of people would have to do the same to keep this place floating. At any rate, part of the reason I went in this time was just that I was surprised it was still open, and curious about how it aged.
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The first thing you'll notice about this place is that it's run by Mandarin speakers, which is a very good sign. The second thing you'll notice is that there will also be Mandarin-speaking customers---another good sign. The people running the shop strike me as a family---a third good sign---which, to me anyway, really brings out the classic "family run Chinese restaurant" vibe that you would actually get in mainland China. I guess what I mean is that i feels more like a proper Chinese dumpling shop that just so happens to be in Hong Kong, and not a Hong Kong restaurant that just so happens to serve dumplings, if that makes any sense. 
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I don't think we ever ordered from the side of the menu pictured above. For us, this place is all about the dumplings and noodles, on the side pictured below. It has your standard array of dumpling varieties, but with one surprising addition: vegetarian dumplings! I opt for veggie options more and more these days so I figured I'd give them a try, and I was glad that I did. Otherwise though my order was fairly traditional: ye olde boiled dumpling noodle soup.
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Dumpling  noodle  soup
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The soup itself was the least impressive part  of the bowl, and gave off a salty dishwater vibe. That's not so important though. Once you load it up with vinegar and chili sauce, and mix around your dumplings and noodles, it turns into something much better as the meal goes on. And yes, they have the right kind of black vinegar, not the typical Cantonese red vinegar some of the less authentic places try to pass off as dumpling vinegar. 
The noodles were quite good. This kind of noodle typically doesn't impress me, often being soft and kind of tasteless, but these were actually memorable. There's a distinct flour taste you get from white noodles in mainland China that I was happy to notice here. Coupled with their pleasant texture---neither over nor under cooked---I can say they were a very good call.
Vegetarian  dumplings
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The veggie dumplings were excellent. They were full of a lovely mix of carrots, glass noodles, and, I want to say, spinach, but I'm honestly not sure. They were lovely anyway, and the homemade skin gets me every time.

As a place for lunch noodles and dumplings, I think it's pretty solid. My bowl cost $52, which is a bit steep, but the quality is there and you definitely won't leave hungry, as the noodle portion is quite generous alongside five boiled dumplings. Will for sure return.
(The above review is the personal opinion of a user which does not represent OpenRice's point of view.)
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Recommended Dishes
Dumpling  noodle  soup
Vegetarian  dumplings