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2024-01-09
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This Michelin 2-star restaurant is in H Queen’s, under chef & owner Eric Raty, offering a menu combining the Nordic and Japanese culinary components to delight diners. Returning after more than four years, I want to see whether there is any new experience in store for us.The décor has not changed, with a rosy pink and soft ambience. The high, arched ceiling with the neat chandelier lighting is exquisitely elegant, with our circular banquette seating comfortable and cosy, facing out to the balcon
The sommelier introduces the different champagnes which I have chosen Franck Bonville Grand Cru Unisson NV ($250) as aperitif, a Blanc de Blancs disgorged at Dec 2022. Complex and mineral-dominated, it is clean with a stony finish. My wife has a Peach Juice ($85).
The first wine paired is Houou Biden Higeban Junmai Daiginjo 鳳凰美田 髭判 純米大吟釀 生詰 瓶燗火入. The famous Tochigi brewery makes this sake with a special, rare type of rice ‘亀粋’. With good melon and peach aromas, it is smooth on the palate, slightly dry, and good match with the food in the first three courses.
The second course is Shiro Ebi & Caviar. The raw small white shrimps are from Toyama, sweet and soft on the bite. Underneath is a jelly made from kombu and squid, providing a delicate umami note to supplement with the delicious caviar on top. There is also a fish soup to go along. Very rich, creamy, and full of flavours, with the drop of dill oil able to add freshness to the soup to good effects. It might seem simple to make but the balance of flavours is amazing. Very good.
The second wine paired is from the famous estate in Pfalz, Philipp Kuhn Kirschgarten Grosses Gewachs Pinot Blanc 2015. The concentrated white peach nose deviates from my assumption about the lack of character in this varietal generally, demonstrating how well-made the wine is, with considerable power and acidity, lots of appealing white blossoms as well as white and yellow fruit.
The fifth course is Scallop. Concealed under a slide of thinly sliced radish is the perfectly charcoal-grilled Maine scallop, with a nice char on the surface but soft and moist interior, sweet and delicious. On the bottom is some daikon pieces to give a contrasting bite, while the Sakura shrimp on top helps to bring forth a wonderful umami taste, to go along with the homemade lobster sauce. Very good.
The third wine paired is Dujac Fils & Pere Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes 2018. The fruity red has good earthy aromas, a nice pick to pair with the pigeon for the main course, and I am impressed that the restaurant arranges a Burgundy from this famous producer in the wine pairing.
The fourth wine paired is Markus Molitor Riesling Auslese Klosterberg Gold Capsule 2017. The German Riesling is pleasant and refreshing, delicate and not too sweet, with lots of floral, citrus, and minerality. A good match with less indulgent dessert.
For Petits Fours, we are first served with the signature, homemade Madeleine. The traditional French pastry, freshly baked, has been added with lemon zest and sake lees. Fragrant, spongy, and not too sweet, it is probably the best madeleine I have tried in Hong Kong. Excellent.
The whole dining experience is pleasant, with good service, attentive staff who spend time to explains the courses and wines in good details. The bill on the night is $6,744. Compared with my last visit, the restaurant has stepped up in its standards. I look forward to returning soon to enjoy its nice fusion of Nordic and Japanese cuisine again.
张贴