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2016-08-30
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I frequently patronize 老北方饺子馆, the dumpling joint in the Queen St. cooked food center which is right by me. A friend of mine who also regularly eats there kept telling me there was another place in Sheung Wan that had even better dumplings, but he didn’t know exactly where it was because his girlfriend always took him there. Anyway, apparently it’s this place. Shandong cuisine is one of the Four Great Traditions of Chinese cooking, though most of my experience of it comes through Beijing cuisine
Shandong cuisine is one of the Four Great Traditions of Chinese cooking, though most of my experience of it comes through Beijing cuisine. I have a friend at a university in Shandong, but I have yet to get an invite. Luckily, I’ve got this place.
I decided to go here twice, partly for research, and partly because the food looked so good.
The first time I went I got pork and leek dumplings ($50, 10pc) and a scallion pancake ($30). The dumplings had a thin skin that I was at pains to avoid breaking. The dumplings in the cooked food center have a more robust skin that stands up well to pan frying (and indeed, are very good pan-fried), whereas these wouldn’t last a minute in a pan. They were very juicy inside, and I caught the additional juices and vinegar in my spoon—yum. The pork seemed good quality and I didn’t get any unwanted gristle or other bits. They were also very large dumplings—I can sometimes eat 12 at the other place, but I didn’t even fit ten in here.
Deep Fried Spring Onion Pastry
$30
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food. It wasn’t really a fried anything. It was just fried. With some soy sauce for salt and umami, I was in bad-for-you-food paradise. You laugh. That’s right, I can hear you laughing: “it’s a scallion pancake, you can get them everywhere, this can’t be that good.” Try it, bub. Seriously.
The second time I went I got the "fried noodles beef and spring onion," the second dish under the "Noodles" portion of the menu. I had seen pictures of these noodles online and I really wanted to try them. There's an American Chinese dish called 'lo mein' which is not really related to what anyone in Hong Kong would call 'lo mein' which involves noodles cooked in a very hot wok to get lots of wok hei smokiness. I think I read that traditionally the noodles are spaghetti, because the Chinese chef who invented it couldn't find rice noodles in New York at the time. Anyway, as terrible as this may sound to everybody else, it's one of my favorite American Chinese dishes, something I used to eat, like, once a week in grad school. These noodles looked rather similar, from the pictures.Unfortunately, while these noodles were good, they weren't a weary expat's dream come true. The noodles themselves were a little on the soft side, and they weren't smoky really at all. If you look closely you can see that none of the veggies have any char on them, and the parts of the onion that are brown is just sauce. Still, as far as salty, greasy noodles go, these were reasonably good. The beef especially was tender and plentiful. It was certainly a satisfying dish, even if nothing special.
Second time around I also got the scallion pastry again, b/c hey... good stuff!There is one other item at this restaurant that I would like to try, but I cannot for the life of me find it on the menu. If you look at tandco's 2016-04-19 review, there is a fried pork chop: 酥炸猪扒, but I can't find anything on the menu that corresponds to that. If you figure out which menu item it is, please let me know in the comments. Thanks in advance!
Final thoughts: there are better dumplings in the area, in my opinion, and better fried noodles. The prices here are pretty nice though, the people seem friendly, and the menu is pretty extensive. Plus, I'm a huge fan of the scallion pastry, as you can tell. I can't say I won't come back here; I haven't tried the pork chop or the soup, and they seem like they're worth a go. Finally, the place is pretty gweilo friendly, which isn't true of every place in Sheung Wan.
题外话/补充资料：
If you can manage noon exactly on a weekday, it's easy to get a seat; by 12:20 there's a line out front.
(以上食记乃用户个人意见 , 并不代表OpenRice之观点。)
张贴
