影片
更多
2010-03-27
905 浏览
I had originally planned to visit here during dinner but that spot was pre-reserved for another little known place I knew I had to try, so lunch became a duel between choosing Wynn's 永利轩 and 京花轩. 永利轩 actually won 1st round and received the consensual knod because I knew one needs to try 京花轩 at night to realise its full potential, plus 永利轩 is dirt cheap for a Michelin Star lunch but as usual was fully booked until 3pm. Anyway here we arrived as our 3rd but not necessarily least preferred cho
This approach doesn't automatically make their offerings diluted in terms of taste or authenticity, although there's ample evidence from certain HK touristy restaurants or Mxxxx offerings that could put the final nail in the coffin right now which supports that argument, but it'll be irresponsible to throw on a blanket statement over everything then write it off just because it 'sounds' fusionised - afterall, we all grew up on them. In fact if you think from another angle, it could well mean that the Kitchen here has been exposed to more cuisines than other chefs and therefore potential possess the additional knowhow required to refine their signature dishes. The proof in the pudding? 谭家菜, is known as the most highly regarded 官府菜 in Beijing circles. The Golden Flower Chef Team is well trained in both and more cuisines properly, and this really showed in the cooking...
************************
TEAS
福建省武夷山-乌龙: No Beijing cuisine is complete without serving the best teas available. A type of Oolong of 3 types of flowers were first given, with an additional emptied tall cup for your 'aromatic' enjoyment.
福建省-黄金桂: Another Fujian province 清茶. Got better after 3-4 cups of brewing.
FOOD
门钉鲜虾肉饼:
唔错, 单调但有水准. 4/5
韮菜盒子:
不同潮州式, 比较扁平, 但仍入口松化, 韮菜馅竟也可以做得很幽雅. 4.5/5
北方水饺:
好味到吓亲我. 第一淡试了一小口时, 本以为会平平无奇, 但半秒未过已知自己assume 错了.. 此时才想起, 水饺本来不就是普通不过的食品吗? 你还想将它变成晓飞吗? 飞, 就真的是给它做到了. 它皮是薄薄地烟龈的, 但里面啲菜肉馅是轻轻的拾到好处在自然地漂浮竹著, 还像小龙包一样劲有汤汁. 全部嘢比例刚刚好. 也是那句, 这种轻巧 sophisticated 的味道同手功, 大部份香港或乜嘢国籍人也好, 是未别会认同它是好的. 但食过而又喜欢 '夜上海' 的人, 或不会总觉得不够粗犷北方味道就是港化了的 (它不是, 但实有人会话系!), 应该也会很喜欢这种平淡得嚟有 sophistication & aftertaste 的出品. 题外话: 我觉得阿鸿小食或鼎泰丰不是样样嘢做到这 IMAX-3D 效果! 5/5
京城炸酱捞面:
这味由五种菜/Pickle 同肉酱自由捞埋的手掣拉面 (too many photos to fit in here!)) , 也是走向淡味蕾路线的. 同在北京食到的黑黑甜甜酱油赤酱'面豉'版比, 不是即食即会 whack you on the palate upfront like a cheap un-aged wine or fresh coffee bean, 但你要慢慢自己找寻时, 你想信它它就总会有日来临的. 就是 tune 得这么完美. 佩服. 可惜的是, 面有味但实在很快从 residual heat cooking 变淋了些许, 因无过冷河, 4.5/5
菜曲带子饺:
Signature Dim Sim. 这有少许广东嘅灵魂在内, 但加上了京菜的演变. Topped with a sliver of mango to balance it all. The dumpling skin and ingredients were all perfect, from quality and combination of ingredients to execution and also flavouring. Hard to find this quality in Hong Kong for some reason, glad to I wasn't blank complaining before for something which does not exist - because it does. 5/5
家常猪肉饼:
做到全无油效果已难, 仲要又有饼香又有松松的猪肉同肉味. 4.8/5
春饼素合菜:
其实本是很大碟, 再分成了有大慨八大片的, 全由侍候人在客人面前即玚包. 馅包括有煎蛋, 菇里, 菜, 粉丝同酱汁, 给包入烟龈的薄饼. 听落唔特别仲好似和尚带帽, 但食落就不可说笑. 调味真系很有层次感, 不怕老是像很多地方有味精损坏了. 5/5
**********************
其实食完这餐有点口渴的, 但请不要每次食完饭口渴就话人家是 MSG 所致. 很多时见到啲标榜话明无用味精的食府也给人话食完后很渴就等于加了味精, 其实很多食品也有 Umami 的. MSG's dehydrating effect 会膈很久很久才散. 这里? 就只不过是完来, 有几样𩠌落了些许在食紧时也轻微到不太察觉得到的很微的蒜茸. 高手 - 就是这么轻手地调味的, 要食完晒所有嘢加埋加埋, 才感觉到它的效果了! 饮多杯可乐很快就无事了.
这里老实讲几贵的, 但很值得. (在香港也不觉有这水准的京菜馆? )
同是高级京菜, 万料不及的是, 比起我以前食过的 '厉家菜': 那 '宫廷菜' 的表现, 竟给这低一斑的 ’官府菜' 给彻底地败下去了...
张贴
