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2025-01-25
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When going for fine-dining restaurants in Central, the furthest I go is Mandarin Oriental, thinking there is simply nothing beyond that point until near Admiralty MTR station. While I have heard about this sushi restaurant, it is a surprise to learn that it is actually located at CCB Tower, adjacent to another famous Chinese restaurant Howard’s Gourmet under the same group.The staff leads us to the small restaurant which can accommodate only a handful of customers along the nice hinoki wooden su
When going for fine-dining restaurants in Central, the furthest I go is Mandarin Oriental, thinking there is simply nothing beyond that point until near Admiralty MTR station. While I have heard about this sushi restaurant, it is a surprise to learn that it is actually located at CCB Tower, adjacent to another famous Chinese restaurant Howard’s Gourmet under the same group.The staff leads us to the small restaurant which can accommodate only a handful of customers along the nice hinoki wooden sushi bar. There are neat handcrafted kumiko design patterns on the ceiling, showing subtle elegance and premium ambience to accompany the dining experience. Serving us on the day is Chef Omine Kento, who has joined Kanesaka in Ginza before coming to HK.
The Omakase ($2,980 each) starts with Bafun-Uni. Coming from Hokkaido, the beautiful orangish Bafun sea urchin is served in its own shell, with the bottom layer is a puree made from yurine, or lily root. The sea urchin is sweet in taste, without any weird notes, and the creamy lily root is delicate and able to highlight the flavours of the sea urchin. Very good.
The second course is the seasonal Seko-Gani. Coming from Hyogo, the chef has meticulously removed the meat from the claws of the female snow crab, and then put it back beautifully onto the shell. Underneath is the meat of the crab body, mixed with uchiko, the rich, orange-coloured roes inside the crab. On top of the claw meat is a ball of sotoko, the firm and crunchy roes found outside the shell. With a bit of yuzu juice and vinegar the sweet flavours are memorable. Excellent.
The third course is Yaki Shirako. The cod milt has been grilled over charcoal briefly to sear the surface, but able to retain a creamy and velvety texture. With Japanese leek and a thick sauce, the delicate flavours are well-balanced with an intricate umami seeping out from every bite. Very good.
The fourth course is Tako. Cutting a piece of the large octopus tentacles to serve, it has a surprisingly soft texture, apparently has gone through a lot of massaging and careful braising process. Biting into the tentacles the sweet taste from the sauce will seep out, with the chef adding some yuzu shavings on top to freshen the palate, as well as a bit of mustard on the side for additional seasoning. Excellent.
The fifth course is Nodoguro, which has been steamed with sake. The prized deep-water blackthroat seaperch has delicious fattiness, with the chef using the steaming method to highlight the original flavours to the full extent, supplemented with a bit of the sweet fragrance coming from the sake. Very good.
The sixth course is Grilled Sawara. The Japanese Spanish mackerel has been marinated in miso before grilling, with the deep miso flavours infused into the fish, helping to bring forth the umami even more. Paired with some seasonal Japanese vegetables including kogomi and nanohana, this is very good in taste and completes the first half of the omakase before proceeding to the sushi.
The first sushi features Kanpachi. The greater amberjack has a firm texture, balanced in flavours with also a lingering sweet taste. Very good.
The second sushi features Sumi-Ika. Cutting on the surface of the cuttlefish without breaking it apart shows the skill of the chef, allowing the soy sauce to seep into, instead of draining off the smooth surface, as well as breaking the fiber to make it easy to chew. Very good.
The third sushi features Maguro, with the tuna caught in Oma, Aomori. The lean tuna has been marinated in soy sauce briefly to season and soften it to a nice silky-smooth texture that slides down the throat on the bite. Excellent.
The fourth sushi continues to feature the Maguro, but this time it is another cut, Chu-Toro. The medium-fatty tuna has a richer taste comparatively, with a good balance so it is not feeling particularly greasy. Very good.
The fifth sushi finishes the Maguro trio, featuring O-Toro, the most fatty part of the tuna. The intense flavours of the fish oil permeate on the bite, bringing a sense of luxury satisfaction. I like how the chef selects the cut as it is not feeling like eating a lump of fat. Excellent.
The sixth sushi features Aji, one of my favourite fish. The silvery sheen of the skin tells how fresh they are, with the chef cutting it open in traditional style, adding a bit of scallion to season. The rich umami taste is memorable, and it will be my candidate for an encore. Excellent.
The seventh sushi features Hokkigai. The chef has grilled the surf clam before making it into sushi, making the clam meat even sweeter in taste but without compromising the nice crunchy bite. Very good.
The eighth sushi features Kuruma-Ebi. After briefly poaching the Japanese tiger prawn, the chef removes the shell and cut off a bit of the tail so that the whole sushi does not become too long, a thoughtful way to facilitate the customers. The tail, however, is served on the side so it is not going to waste. Very sweet in taste with a bouncy texture, it is excellent.
The ninth sushi features Murasaki-Uni from Hokkaido. While it is not in the best season, the purple sea urchin is still of good quality, with a creamy soft texture and without any weird taste. The chef has prepared a gunkan to make it easier for us to pick up the sushi as well. Very good.
The tenth and last piece of sushi features Anago. The conger eel has been steamed first and then grilled over charcoal, with a very tender texture, virtually melting-in-the-mouth. With a bit of sansho pepper to season, the nitsume sauce helps to bring forward the umami but not over-dominating the flavours. The Tamago on the side is also delicious in taste. Very good.
My wife orders an additional Ikura sushi ($150) while I opts for two pieces that are not originally on the menu. The first one is Akagai ($150), with the ark shell quite large in size, fresh and bouncy in texture, rich in umami taste. Very good.
The other piece is Kohada ($130), which is another of my favourite sushi. With each chef having his own recipe of marinade, here the sourness of the gizzard shad is not too overpowering, which would be more appealing to local palate. Excellent.There is also a Toro-Maki included, with the chef chopping up a mix of different parts of the maguro briefly, adding some leek, and then wrapping the mashed tuna in a crisp nori sheet. The balance of the amount of the different fatty tuna is an art and the chef has mastered it well. A great finale for the sushi and for tuna fans it is a satisfying treat to complete the meal.
Instead of using bonito, the Soup is made from dried maguro, fragrant and with a nice taste. The dessert is a slice of Melon from Kumamoto, juicy and sweet. It helps to warm the stomach and facilitate digestion, giving a satisfying contention.
Service is very good, with the staff attentive and courteous. The chef may not have a lot of interactions with us during the meal but the atmosphere throughout is relaxing. The bill on the night is $6,390 after a 10% discount. Look forward to the next visit and enjoy some sake as well.
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