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2015-04-18
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7/10 plates emptied!一踏入Motorino，我们就看到那个著名的砖窑炉，比起Soho区的Peak Bar Restaurant 显然是小巫见大巫，即使如此，在湾仔寸土尺金的地方搭建窑炉也是「蛮拼的」，精神可嘉！这里先来一个小知识普及：为什么大家对有砖窑炉的pizza店有种异常的朝拜之心？——砖窑炉，意大利人称 “Pompeii Oven”， 呈圆拱形，在里面焚烧果木(比如松木、苹果木等等。这里用的是杏仁木。)，热力可达摄氏450度，而且温度不会有很大的起伏，均衡持久的热力在非常短的时间内就把饼底烤至松脆，这样放在饼底上的新鲜材料就可以维持原始的味道，不至于受长时间烘烤而鲜味流失。并非说电炉不好，只是窑炉更好，特别是来自意大利Napoli地区的手工砖窑。Motorino, being praised for its freshly baked pizza right from the Pompeii Oven – traditional Italian brick oven, even though still considerably smaller than th
[Written by Gobay in Chinese, Carly in English]
一踏入Motorino，我们就看到那个著名的砖窑炉，比起Soho区的Peak Bar Restaurant 显然是小巫见大巫，即使如此，在湾仔寸土尺金的地方搭建窑炉也是「蛮拼的」，精神可嘉！这里先来一个小知识普及：为什么大家对有砖窑炉的pizza店有种异常的朝拜之心？——砖窑炉，意大利人称 “Pompeii Oven”， 呈圆拱形，在里面焚烧果木(比如松木、苹果木等等。这里用的是杏仁木。)，热力可达摄氏450度，而且温度不会有很大的起伏，均衡持久的热力在非常短的时间内就把饼底烤至松脆，这样放在饼底上的新鲜材料就可以维持原始的味道，不至于受长时间烘烤而鲜味流失。并非说电炉不好，只是窑炉更好，特别是来自意大利Napoli地区的手工砖窑。
Motorino, being praised for its freshly baked pizza right from the Pompeii Oven – traditional Italian brick oven, even though still considerably smaller than the one at Peak Bar Restaurant. Pompeii Ovens, dome shaped, wood fired in pinewood, Applewood and Motorino uses local almond wood, can be heated up to 450 degrees. These authentic ovens are famous for its consistency and stability in temperature control, heat being evenly distributed, reaching intense fiery flames in just seconds, and perfect for pizza baking. Pizza dough will only need 1 minute to be cooked through, preserving the natural flavors and freshness of the toppings. Not saying that electronic ovens are no good, just Pompeii ovens are better, better yet the ones from Italy Napoli area are one of the best.
餐厅的装潢是很传统的欧陆式风格：红砖墙，铁椅，木台。厨房是开放式的，这和国外pizza店很相似，客人甚至能看到厨师搓面团和将pizza放入窑中。我们坐在近街靠窗的大台，边欣赏著美食的制作过程，边享受著初春时分的淡淡暖阳，谈天说地，懒洋洋的期待著，感觉真好！
Very traditional European interior décor with red brown bricked walls, metal chairs, wooden long tables, open kitchen, laidback ambience was swinging in the air. You can even catch a glimpse of chefs shoving pizza doughs into the oven. The Gang sat by the window side, bathing under the warmth of sunshine, glancing over the cooking process of hearty food, enjoying the time spent together, we quickly settled in while our minds wandering around and awaited for freshly baked pizzas!
我们点了三个午市套餐 (周一至五提供，HKD128/份，每份包括一个蔬菜类头盘(三款)和一个9寸Pizza(四款)——绝对够饱！)，散点了两个头盘和一个pizza，下面一一来点评。
We ordered three lunch sets (available on weekdays – HKD128/set including one choice of greens (3 choices) & 9 inch pizza (4 selections), on the side, ordered 2 more appetizers and 1 pizza, 1 calzone for al carte.《午市套餐之头盘(Antipasti) 》
【 Mixed Greens Salad w/ Balsamic Vinegar & Extra Virgin Olive Oil | 蔬菜沙律拌意大利酒醋】这个沙律让我们想起在摆花街Jean-Paul Hevin法国菜餐厅的那个沙律，意大利葡萄酒醋汁分量刚好地沾在每片菜叶上，碟子里没有残留多余的水分，挺好。所以用葡萄酒醋有个好处：贵！下手的时候就懂得『知悭识俭』……至于没有多余水分，这个比较花功夫，洗完菜后要逐片擦干(货源高级也可以直接解包装使用，不用洗，这在华人社会还是比较少)。
This reminded us of the well-tossed salad we once had Jean Paul Hevin and this was well-presented with balsamic vinegar evenly spread on each leaf of greens, the right balance of acidity to start off this guilty meal!
【 Fennel Salad w/ Olives, Orange & Pecorino | 橄榄茴香香橙沙律配Pecorino芝士】春天(三、四月)是球茎茴香当造，它的口感很像椰菜花，但水分更多故更脆身，就像是富士苹果质地但结合了蔬菜香味(闻说茴香有阵淡淡的八角香气但当时并没闻到，有兴趣的食友下次可以尝试食前嗅一下)。Pecorino，几乎每道前菜都看到它的身影而且颜色非常白，所以Gobay推断应该是Pecorino Romano，这种芝士非常适合磨碎了混合面包，沙律或腌肉一起食用。它是用绵羊奶制作的，介于山羊奶和牛乳之间，是肠胃对牛奶比较敏感但又喜爱芝士的食友的恩物。听说古罗马时期会在制作过程中加入做葡萄酒后剩余的榨干葡萄来盖著发酵，所以会有淡淡果香。果香就欠奉了，感觉也不像是陈年过很久的Pecorino，吃著质地不硬，味道也不很浓烈，咸味中透出一些nuttiness(果仁香味)，和清新的茴香香橙搭配相得益彰，推荐！
Fennel being crunchy, slightly sweet, often used in Italian cuisine, as its best by the time from autumn to early spring. Gobay depicted fennels like Fuji apples with a crisp of fruityfragrant. Pecorino, type of hard Italian cheese, milky white, made from the milk of ewe – female sheep. Very suitable to mix with bread, salad or preserved meat; ewe’s milk is milder in kind, better for people who have sensitive stomachs! Old tales trace back to ancient times of Rome, dried grapes will be placed upon the cheese containers during aging process to add that extra hint of fruitiness. Pecorino at Motorino was not particularly fruity or refined in quality yet the cheese scent was rather mild, salty with a subtle nuttiness, complemented with the fresh funnels and mandarins, makes a fine appetizing salad!
【 Roasted Squash w/ Aubergine, Pecorino & E.V. Olive Oil | 烤煮西葫芦和茄子配Pecorino芝士】碟底大片橘红色的浮油一开始吓到我们，可入口之后发现并没有想像中的很油腻的感觉，温热的西葫芦和茄子熟度刚好，软软的，Like!
Orange-ish oil did scare us a bit, debating whether this was too oily for starters. Luckily, the roasted squash and aubergine (round mini shaped eggplants) were not too oily, nicely roasted as it was still warm when we enjoyed it.《午市套餐之主菜(Pizze) 》
【Margherita, Tomato sauce, Mozzarella Di Bufala, Basil, Pecorino, E.V. Olive Oil | 玛格丽特女王薄饼，番茄酱、意大利水牛奶芝士Buffalo Mozzarella、罗勒、Pecorino芝士、初榨橄榄油】这款经典的Pizza相信无人不知是以玛格丽特女王之名命名。Mozzarella的白，番茄酱的红和罗勒的绿代表了意大利国旗的三色。这家纽约闻名已久的意大利pizza 餐厅是标榜做Napoli 风格的pizza，即是饼底质地像薄身的Focaccia 面包，外表香脆，内里质地蓬松香软。不知道是否我们专注摄影的缘故致使错过了它热腾腾出炉上台的最佳时机，所以吃著有点过韧，建议大家尽量一上台就开动。是次Pizza 烤得太㶶，虽说带焦黑的饼边和看似火焰山凹凸不平的饼面是Napoli pizza 的特色，但过多的焦黑看著还是让人有点儿惶惶不安。Pizza整体味道不俗，芝士的柔韧口感不错，Carly更觉得番茄酱的味道特别吸引。这里的番茄和芝士都是由意大利进口，当然高质素。
Well-known for naming the Margherita pizza after their queen, being the hallmarks of Italian pizza – white from mozzarella, red from tomato sauce and, green from basil resembles the national Italy flag. Motorino is renowned for their Napoli style of pizza, hence the thin crust of Focaccia-like texture, crispy on the outside, soft slightly chewy on the inside. Being slightly over-burnt, we all joked that this meal will cost us cancer afterwards (touchwood!). Mozzarella cheese being soft chewy and elastic, and tomato sauce tasted fresh, rich and sweet. Cheese and tomato sauce both imported directly from Italy was crucial for one delectable Margherita.
【 Brussels Sprout, Fior Di Latte, Garlic, Pecorino, Smoked Pancetta, E.V. Olive Oil | 甘蓝芽球薄饼，Fior Di Latte (即Mozzarella)芝士、Pecorino芝士、烟熏火腿、初榨橄榄油】这款Pizza是Motorino餐厅的自创品牌Pizza。外观上看，甘蓝芽球近一半的叶都是焦黑的，是「很有深度的黑色」——黑透了，很不健康。可是闻著非常香，因为新鲜的缘故，每一片未被烤焦的半截很脆绿，依然散发著甘蓝芽球独特的芥兰加椰菜之香甜味，致令Gobay忍不住拿在手上一闻再闻舍不得动嘴。「Fior Di Latte」其实就是Mozzarella，用普通鲜牛奶制成的，我们经常提及的前一款pizza用的Mozzarella Di Bufalo则是特指用意大利特定产区的水牛奶制成的Mozzarella，比较矜贵的一种。「Fior Di Latte」在意大利语中指「Flower of Milk」，所以也有人称它为「奶花奶酪」。它是椭圆型的，好像雪白的剥壳鸡蛋，平常要保存在乳清中。一分为二的时候，它的纤维性就显现得很清楚了，入口有嚼劲，柔韧牵丝，所以Mozzarella一直是举世闻名的最受欢迎芝士之一，主要就是源于它的口感和不霸道的奶香。对比前一个，这个烤得太焦了，让我们还未吃心里就大打折扣。但它没加特别酱汁，味道纯粹，原汁原味，喜欢甘蓝芽球的食友应该会喜欢这款pizza的，如果它不那么「黑漆漆」的话。
Motorino’s own creative pizza combo with unique yet intriguing toppings of Brussel sprouts, unfortunately, too burnt on our pizza, it was still spreading this freshness whiff mix of cabbage and Chinese broccoli, Gobay simply couldn’t resist. Fior Di Latte, higher grade of Mozzarella, in Italian means “Flower of Milk”, semi-soft yet elastic chewy on the palate, combust of milky and mildly subtle cheesy flavor, excellent melting qualities, makes it the perfect component to go with freshly oven baked pizza, never too overpowering. This pizza was clearly over-burnt, yet we fancied it for its originality as no extra sauce was added. For Brussels sprout fans, this is the one pizza that you will adore!
【Soppressata Piccante, Tomato sauce, Fior Di Latte, Spicy Soppressata, Fresh Chilies, Garlic, Oregano, Pecorino, E.V. Olive Oil | 意大利辣肉肠薄饼，番茄酱、Fior Di Latte芝士、Pecorino芝士、新鲜辣椒、蒜片、牛至、初榨橄榄油】这款的主角加了意大利辣肉肠，饼底前沿非常薄，我们拿起时番茄酱汁已经快浸透饼底，十分影响口感，再者味道很咸。Soppressata香肠本身就很重口味，因为用茴香，黑胡椒等多种香料腌制而成，如果再加上番茄酱的酸咸，不再特殊处理就会有点太过。建议吃的时候把前部分卷起，然后从侧面咬，那么厚厚的饼边就能中和过分的咸味。新鲜小辣椒被切成圈直接放在pizza上，蒜片也一样切片撒上，所以不小心吃到辣椒圈的会觉得很辣，但辣味是怡人的，刺激的热力在舌尖上散开，接著第二口的pizza辣味就会慢慢消失。
Soppressata is a type of Italian dry salami, often pressed with basil, black peppers and hot peppers. Salty and pungent to begin with, hence, often used as one simple topping for pizza, complemented with sweet tomato paste. You could taste the fiery spice and was tad too salty, Gobay recommended to curl up the pizza slice and start to eat from the side on the crusts, balancing off some of the thick sauce and sliced sausages. Fresh red peppers were chopped and sprinkled on top with garlic flakes; indeed this can be quite spicy yet appealing for one authentic Italian pizza dining experience.《散点之头盘(Antipasti) 》
【Cockle Clam Crostino al Bianco | 白汁煮欧洲大蚬(鸟蛤)伴意式脆焗面包| HKD 118】这个前菜也是得到我们一直赞赏的。白汁的香草牛油味很浓郁，但入口却清淡，可能加了白葡萄酒的缘故。鸟蛤非常新鲜，大只而且肉质鲜甜肥美多汁，用半个壳舀起部分白汁和蛤肉一起吃下，顿时整个人都「春天」了！Crostino就是香草脆焗面包，通常是这类有蛮多酱汁，而且融合了海鲜鲜味的菜式，配一块香草面包是再好不过了，感觉和喝牛油海鲜汤一样。
Spring-like appetizer! Creamy garlicky white sauce smelled really buttery, well-balanced sauce with a hint of white wine. Cockle clams are edible saltwater clams, heart-shaped when viewed from the end. Motorino’s clams were large in size, juicy and chubby, after chucking the delicious clam, use the empty shell to scoop a mouthful of buttery white sauce, mmmmmm. Dip the crispy crostino bread into that irresistible sauce that is never too oily, yes, uh huh, heaven.《散点之主菜(Pizze) 》
【Cremini Mushroom, Fior Di Latte, Sweet Sausage, Garlic, Thyme, Pecorino, Gaeta Olives, E.V. Olive Oil | 切片小褐菇薄饼，Fior Di Latte芝士、甜肉肠、蒜片、迷迭香、Pecorino芝士、Gaeta黑橄榄、初榨橄榄油| HKD 158】切成大片的小褐菇铺满了整个pizza让人看著就觉得很足料。另外还撒了许多撕碎的Gaeta橄榄肉，加上肉肠及各种香料混合一起，味道很不错，而且这个饼底不㶶也没有之前的韧，是四款里味道口感结合得最好的pizza。稍微介绍一下Gaeta橄榄，它属于黑橄榄也就是熟成的橄榄拿去腌制，用紫色形容它会更贴切。它产自Lazio大区，邻近罗马东部，而「Gaeta」是那片橄榄土地的名字。比起希腊名种黑橄榄，柔软如肉的Kalamata，它的口感会更有韧性和咬口，稍咸。这里的橄榄质量非常不错，可见进口的都是正宗『笋货』。
Bountiful mushrooms layered on top of the chewy Napoli pizza, embedded with a bed of shredded Gaeta olives, sausages and herb mix, quite the intriguing combo to munch on a summery day at noon, epitomizing your cravings for some authentic taste of Italian comfort food. Allow us to introduce Gaeta olives: these small oval olives are wrinkled dark purple Italian olives with a tender texture and slightly acidic pickled taste. Originated from Lazio, close to East of Rome, harvested from the area of Gaeta; compared to ultra-soft Kalamata olives, Gaeta ones are slightly chewy and briny. Motorino’s olives were in decent quality, clearly imported directly from Italy. This was considered one of the better pizzas, without being over burnt, too dry or chewy, fresh mushrooms were able to balance off some of the saltiness from sausages and Gaeta olives.《甜品篇(Dolci) 》
【Nutella Calzone朱古力榛子酱半月形馅饼|HKD78】半月形状的馅饼用上Pizza的饼皮，把众人最喜爱又最邪恶的朱古力榛子酱和棉花糖交融在一起。只要咬一口烟韧的馅饼，在高温的烘焗后，雪白软绵的棉花糖已半溶，粘粘的叫人吃著也陶醉。配上人见人爱的朱古力榛子酱，对，无错，「真心肥」又「劲甜」，但这款甜品实在是无得输，唯有之后去做gym吧（Carly想道）。吉碟帮吃完四个九寸pizza后，再加上一款激肥的甜品，很满足！
Also known as folded up pizza, Calzones, are great for packing up your favorite treats, baking it in one treasure box. Don't think anyone will disagree that Nutella and marshmallows is the best couple ever – this was TOO sweet in a guilty comforting way.
Just one thing, marshmallows and Nutella spread was not evenly spread out in the Calzone so some bites were mouthful of pure chocolate and hazelnut jam and then some corners you only get a tiny bit of those gooey melted marshmallows.
整体而言，Pizza的质感和味道与传统Napoli Pizza比较，有些许「友达以上，恋人未满」的感觉。但作为一件连锁Pizza店，而且标榜快餐(店名Motorino在意大利语里面表示小摩托车，创办人曾在某美国访问表示是寓意快餐的意思)，Pizza的质量算是不错了。
“If only we were together, but not quite there yet” was the overall comment from Gobay on Motorino’s Napoli pizza. Carly personally ranked Motorino higher than Pizza Express (undoubtedly a chain commercialized pizza eatery). Liked how the Wanchai branch is tucked away on Ship Street, located just proximate to Ham & Sherry, if we did not like the lunch menu of Ham & Sherry much (weekly change) then we can just drop by Motorino for mind-soothing freshly baked pizza. Carly was also surprised that the servers did know and was capable of explaining the menu in details, service was not as bad as the reviews online. For just around HKD150, Motorino is an extra option for Wanchai and Central diners.
《Gobay话你知》意大利传统Pizza: Napoli Style与Lazio StyleNapoli风格上面简介了一些，关于传统Napoli Pizza，意大利有个非牟利组织AVPN ——Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana ，是专门为了宣传并保护真正传统的Napoli pizza。其实Napoli Pizza已经有欧盟的「传统特产保证认证标章」(Traditional Specialities Guaranteed - TSG)，类似我们经常听说的联合国非物质文化遗产的意味。要获得AVPN认证为「Vera Pizza Napoletana」 需要符合非常多的规定，最主要是：用燃木的砖窑炉温度达450°C左右、“00”号的面粉(筋度够而且幼细)、特定产区的番茄(有个详细的列表，只能用表上的番茄)、特别认证的Mozzarella芝士、海盐和规定规格的酵母、烤制时间不得超过90秒等等。而且不能擀面棍只能用手去搓面团，所以正宗Napoli Pizza的形状出来都是不规则的圆形。面团经过长达十多个小时的发酵后延展性会变得很好，可以抻成非常均匀的超薄面饼。稍微说一下其中一种AVPN建议使用的番茄，有D.O.P产地认证的San Marzano Tomato——没错，你没有眼花，就是像葡萄酒一样有等级和认证的…番茄！它外形比较修长，酸度没有本地番茄那么高，而由于水土和昼夜温差大的关系，它有种很复杂的甜味，即使是罐装番茄酱，都散发一种浓郁的美味。
目前没有听说香港有哪家pizza餐厅有拿到这个认证(欢迎知道哪里有的食友推介)，上海倒是有两间。Gobay打去同Motorino餐厅经理确认的时候，经理表示他们知道有这个认证，但目前香港分店暂时没有计划要申请。目前美加一共有97间是拥有这个认证的Pizza餐厅，比起2012年时候的20间骤升了近4倍，可见美加一带对Napoli Pizza的热爱。当然，只要pizza味道好，有没有认证也只是见仁见智了。
关于Lazio风格，很多人会称其为罗马风格，其实罗马只是Lazio即拉齐奥大区下的一部分。它是一种更薄更脆的pizza，也没有Napoli pizza那么规矩多多。前文提及的Peak Bar Restaurant有很地道的Lazio风格pizza和一个很朴素但巨大的砖窑炉。有兴趣的食友可以一试比对一下两种风格的pizza。
Gobay’s Food Knowledge Corner: Napoli Style vs. Lazio StyleAssociazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, Italian non-profit organization, founded in 1984 in Naples, aims to promote and protect the true “Napoli Pizza”; restaurants will have to fulfill standards on ingredients, how it is cooked and prepared, and certain equipment to become their honored member that serves the most authentic Napoli pizza. For instance, “00” doppio zero refined flour, tomatoes of specific kinds, certified mozzarella cheese or fior di latte, fresh basil, only sea salt, specific brand of yeast have to be used as ingredients. Pizza dough to be crafted by hand, creating the rather irregular circular pizza base, baked to its unique aroma from the wood-fired Pompeii Oven under temperature reaching 450 degrees, emerges from the oven, delivering its characteristic aroma – perfumed and fragrant and elastic on the palate.
None of Hong Kong restaurants have been AVPN approved yet, surprisingly, several of them located in Shanghai, Taiwan, and Singapore. Gobay called Motorino’s restaurant manager to see if they had any intention in applying for AVPN approval and it did not seem that they were interested. There are more than 90 North America pizza restaurants which are AVPN-approved, compared to the figure of 20 back in 2012. Evidently, North Americans are a fan of Napoli pizzas.
Lazio style of pizza, a.k.a Rome tradition, is one of the twenty administrative regions in Italy, situated in central peninsular section of Italy. Angelic light and crispy, less of a hassle on standards compared to Napoli pizzas. Gobay strongly recommended the Gang to go try out Peak Bar Restaurant in SOHO area of Central for their simply put brick oven, Carly quick jotted down this on their to-try list, next stop to hit! Quest of the Gang’s favorite pizza begins!
张贴
