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2012-10-22
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正宗旭川派過江龍拉麵湯頭及麵條均有特色由日本直送來港醬油拉麵很香但很飽，推介味噌牛油拉麵。Authentic Asahikawa style ramenLocated inside a supermarketBroths directly from JapanDistinctive noodlesShoyu ramen is good but a bit heavyMiso ramen is well-balanced and flavourful:RecommendedSapporo Miso;Hakodate Shio; andAsahikawa Shoyu.That's a saying about the classification of ramens in the Hokkaido prefecture. Asahikawa has its own special style of soup and ramen. Asahikawa W Soup?It is generally chicken/pork bone plus some fish stock, konbu an
湯頭及麵條均有特色
由日本直送來港
醬油拉麵很香但很飽，
推介味噌牛油拉麵。
Authentic Asahikawa style ramen
Located inside a supermarket
Broths directly from Japan
Distinctive noodles
Shoyu ramen is good but a bit heavy
Miso ramen is well-balanced and flavourful:
Recommended
Sapporo Miso;Hakodate Shio; and
Asahikawa Shoyu.
That's a saying about the classification of ramens in the Hokkaido prefecture.
Asahikawa has its own special style of soup and ramen.
Asahikawa W Soup?
It is generally chicken/pork bone plus some fish stock, konbu and shoyu. It's apparently called "W Soup" (Double Soup). The distinctive feature is the lack of strong pork taste like those you find in Hakata and Nagahama style ramen. Overall its not as thick as those you have at ButaO or Ippudo but not as watery as those you have at Ryotei, Marutama or, hmm... rasupermen, for example. It has a pretty balanced taste and a well rounded, smooth texture.
There should also be some lard on the top layer of the soup to keep the bowl of noodle warm, which makes sense if you want to keep the ramen warm during the -30 degree celcius Asahikawa Winter.
Asahikawa noodles:
Outwardly, the noodles looked just like normal Hokkaido noodles (i.e. the curly, chewy, thick ones). However, it has a lot less water content - and possibly egg content. The end result is that the texture is much drier than normal. It's denser and more filling.
Originality:
To ensure that you have a true taste of Asahikawa broth, the broths in Baikoken were deep frozen and then sent directly from Japan to Hong Kong!
That's was I call "original"!
"Santouka", another ramen shop that has been in Hong Kong for quite a while, is also from Asahikawa. But their broths and especially ramen is more similar to the Hakata style (but with a milder pork taste with a little bit of fish stock) than the "real" Asahikawa style broth and ramen. So it's not really comparable at all.
OK, so that's the theory behind it.
BAIKOKEN is an overseas branch from a ramen shop in Asahikawa, Hokkaido. It is one of the three ramen shops in Hysan place. The first one we tried was rasupermen. This was the second one. It's located inside a supermarket.
Since this ramen joint is based in Asahikawa, shoyu appears to be their signature ramen.
However, they do all three types of ramen from the Hokkaido prefecture.
Menu:
We arrived and saw a long queue. The large colourful menu was printed on the wall next to the queue. Those were classified according to the broths:
-Shoyu, Miso or Butter and
- the toppings (essentially a combination of char Sou, eggs and/or spring onions and/or bamboo shoots, pretty standard in Hong Kong by now.)
You'll have plenty of time to consider the menu because you'll be queuing for quite a while.
Unfortunately, the first impression I had was the shop's lack of efficiency:-
Taking a stand:
Essentially, there were quite a number of tables for standing diners and some table seats.
They will only sell ramen to you once seats are available, until then, you'll just be staring face to face with the cashier, peeping into their open kitchen (in which you'll see the eggs and perhaps catch a glimpse of the frozen broth) or continue to look at the menu on the wall.
The standing area with taller tables was only for the takeaway sushi shop - also run by the same supermarket (by the way, it looked pretty appetizing.)
We waited for about 30 mins. During the wait, we saw a family with a child asking the staff whether they could consume their ramen on the table stands, they don't need seats (and the child was saying he was very hungry). This was not allowed.
Another spectacle we witnessed was that two girls were enjoying their sushi at some of the table seats. The staff told them to move to the standing seats instead. They complied but their smiles vanished.
When we finally got to the queue, I asked the staff about the seating arrangements. I was told that the seats were for the sushi and sashimi shop only.
I don't understand why they don't let people use the stands. Both are managed by the same supermarket anyway.
If they did their research properly, they'd realized that its very strange - practically unheard of in Japan - to eat sushi standing.
On the other hand, it's normal to have ramen standing, especially ramen shops in train stations.
I suggest that they allow customers to use the stands, which were mostly vacant anyway. This could greatly enhance the turnover rate .
Orders:
Anyway, we ordered a miso ramen and also a bowl of shoyu ramen. We were then shown to our tables. There were hooks installed beneath the table so it's good for handbags and shoppings.
The ramen arrived after a short wait.
Noodles:
Noodles were uniquely from Asahikawa. It's similar to the Hokkaido style curly ramen (as opposed to the thin Hakata one) . It's thick but not as chewy as the normal Hokkaido ones you have at Hakodate or Sampachi.
It has less egg and less water content so it's less chewy. The texture and taste actually felt a bit like bread. Very filling.Fit for warming you up during the Hokkaido winter & Hong Kong winter.
Thick cut menma:
The menma (pickled bamboos shoots) is worth a special mention. It's very good! Thick cut, fresh, crisp and flavourful. One of the best ones I've tried in Hong Kong.
Apparently, this is another distinctive feature of Asahikawa ramen. The menma is not pickled in vinegar or salt. You can taste the fresh bamboo shoot taste of the menma.
Egg:
The egg was also very good:
Not super fluid but very flavourful. The yoke had egg taste and the white had shoyu taste.Shoyu broth:
Shoyu very good initially. Very fresh, a bit similar to the one at Hin Shou but a little bit more intense.
Unfortunately, this heavy taste coupled with their even heavier noodle made finishing it a heavy task.
Still, it's quality shoyu broth straight from Asahikawa. Worth a try. Miso Broth:
Very flavourful!
Almost like "Hakodate" the first time I tried it, with a little bit of chili powder (but not the disappointing second time).
The miso taste was very refreshing . Not too oily, salty or in any way excessive. Very well balanced!
The most balanced miso soup I've had in Hong Kong so far.
One could finish the whole bowl notwithstanding the very filling noodles.Highly recommended.
Conclusion:
Very interesting Asahikawa ramen
Aromatic shoyu broth but a bit heavy
Miso soup is very well balanced;
All in all, a positive experience.
Worth a try!
旭川派拉麵？在日本有所謂：
札幌味噌
函館塩味
旭川醬油
根據網上的資料，旭川雖然地理上處於北海道縣，但是麵條與湯底都有它獨特之處：
麺條：
基本上與北海道其他地方的外形上相似，同樣都是粗身及有點攣的。但含水量小，所以較實，飽足感高。
＂W" 湯頭？
一般是把魚介湯頭（鰹魚及其他魚類）加入肉類湯頭（豚骨或雞骨）內 ("W" - double 湯頭）。
雖然有豚骨，但不會像博多系或長浜系般有豬膻味。
（如豚王，一風堂，龍也和長浜No.1 等。）
反而會加入昆布並將豬膻味盡量去除一點。湯頭顏色雖然看似混濁但其實質感幼滑。
梅光初露：
山頭火雖然都是從旭川過來的，但是它不是主打元祖的旭川派拉麵。
山頭火的湯頭豬膻味較梅光軒的重一點，已經遠離旭川的而接近博多的（但應該都下了不少魚介湯頭）。
梅光軒應該是在香港暫時最正宗的旭川派拉麵。
款式：
位於希慎廣場地庫超級市場內。對面有一家外賣寿司店。
基本上全部都好像是面壁位，應該有20-30個位。
購買的方式是：
1）排隊；
2）排隊期間參看牆上的餐牌。
分類基本上是味噌，醬油及鹽味湯頭。每款湯頭再分：
基本（叉燒，蔥及竹筍），牛油及粟米，及以上全部。
另有純野菜拉麵（但我相信應有豬油，所以未必適合素食者。）
餐牌亦有小量飯類及餃子等可供選擇。
3）直至有座位之前，客人不能落單；
4）有位後，可以落單及付款。職員會帶客人坐下；
5）等麵到。
不准立食？
排隊期間，見到兩位少女開心地坐在位上進食同一超市售賣的寿司。
梅光軒的職員指示她們離開座位，並叫她們在立食位食寿司。
她們照辨。面上的笑容有點減退...
之後，亦見到一對家長帶著小孩排隊。應該已經排了好一段時間，小孩嚷著很肚餓。
家長顯示他們不介意站著吃，但職員並不容許。結果他們去了買寿司，並站著吃...
在日本，站著吃拉麵，簥麥麵或烏冬，是很正常的事。
相反，站著吃寿司幾乎聞所未聞。
（順帶一提，在日本多數地區，邊走邊吃都是不太有禮貌的。）
提議店方靈活（及正宗）一點，把多數時間都空置的立食位編號並開放給拉麵店。
同時，留下小量座位給購買寿司的客人，相信對減省顧客等候時間及增加流量有很大幫助。
梅光拉麵：有位後我們點了味噌牛油粟米及醬油拉麵（加蛋）。隔了不久便到：
麵條：
如上文所述，旭川的麵條含水量小，粗身，密度高但不算很彈牙。
梅光軒的就是這樣。幾乎有點像吃麵包！
份量亦頗多。天熱時應有點膩，但適合禦寒！？
味玉：
半熟蛋蛋味很濃郁。蛋白亦富有醬油香味。十分滿意。
叉燒及旭川筍：
叉燒記憶中較瘦。印象不深。
反而值得一提的是筍：
每一塊切得比較厚。吃的時候爽脆、無渣而且並沒有用鹽或醋醃過的痕跡。
出奇地甜美！
原來以未經醃製的筍作為拉麵的配料亦是旭川派拉麵另一特色。
旭川醬油：
首先喝了一口由旭川直送香港的醬油湯頭。這湯頭與品尚或亮亭的質感不同。
顏色相信因為與豚骨及魚介湯混合的關係，較為深色及濁一點 - 應是「W湯頭」。
入口口感幼滑。但醬油味跟品尚有點相似，大家都很鮮！梅光軒的較品尚的濃郁很多，亦比周月的濃郁。
很有特色。但與密度很高的旭川麵條同吃十分飽肚，幾乎不能吃掉全部。 不過，整體來說可以一試。
旭川味噌：
雖然醬油拉麵似乎是本店的招牌，但我會推介味噌拉麵。
湯頭仍好像是「W湯頭」為主，再加入味噌及小量醬油。
口感豐富但是很和諧，沒有過濃或過咸的情況。
味噌甚至可以說頗為鮮甜，與北海道牛油及粟米配合得很好！
好像有小許辣椒粉。完全不能吃辣的食家要注意。
與旭川拉麵同吃完全沒有滯的感覺。輕易完成整碗拉麵。
太太認為這裡的味噌很好，比現在的函館及一風堂的好得多(上載前剛剛吃完)，
亦比八八八豐富幼滑一點。
與龍也的質感有小許相似（但龍也的是豚骨及芝麻為主，應沒有魚的。）
推介！
總結：對梅光軒的食評可以說是好壞參半。
其中一個原因可能是因為它外表像北海道其他地區的拉麵，
但其實有很多不同之處，
故吃的時候容易與想像中的味道有很大的落差。
因醬油拉麵有點滯及叉燒一般，我原打算只給OK.。
但因味噌，蛋，筍，和後來才知道它是正宗旭川派的拉麵，有其獨特之處，所以給笑臉。
如各位抱著嘗試另一派拉麵的心態，相信都會是一個正面的經驗。
雖然香港的冬季沒有像旭川零下三十度那麼凍，
但凍的時候吃一碗飽肚的旭川拉麵相信亦很有風味。
推介味噌拉麵。
不妨一試。
张贴
