影片
更多
2012-10-22
29 浏览
正宗旭川派过江龙拉面汤头及面条均有特色由日本直送来港酱油拉面很香但很饱，推介味噌牛油拉面。Authentic Asahikawa style ramenLocated inside a supermarketBroths directly from JapanDistinctive noodlesShoyu ramen is good but a bit heavyMiso ramen is well-balanced and flavourful:RecommendedSapporo Miso;Hakodate Shio; andAsahikawa Shoyu.That's a saying about the classification of ramens in the Hokkaido prefecture. Asahikawa has its own special style of soup and ramen. Asahikawa W Soup?It is generally chicken/pork bone plus some fish stock, konbu an
汤头及面条均有特色
由日本直送来港
酱油拉面很香但很饱，
推介味噌牛油拉面。
Authentic Asahikawa style ramen
Located inside a supermarket
Broths directly from Japan
Distinctive noodles
Shoyu ramen is good but a bit heavy
Miso ramen is well-balanced and flavourful:
Recommended
Sapporo Miso;Hakodate Shio; and
Asahikawa Shoyu.
That's a saying about the classification of ramens in the Hokkaido prefecture.
Asahikawa has its own special style of soup and ramen.
Asahikawa W Soup?
It is generally chicken/pork bone plus some fish stock, konbu and shoyu. It's apparently called "W Soup" (Double Soup). The distinctive feature is the lack of strong pork taste like those you find in Hakata and Nagahama style ramen. Overall its not as thick as those you have at ButaO or Ippudo but not as watery as those you have at Ryotei, Marutama or, hmm... rasupermen, for example. It has a pretty balanced taste and a well rounded, smooth texture.
There should also be some lard on the top layer of the soup to keep the bowl of noodle warm, which makes sense if you want to keep the ramen warm during the -30 degree celcius Asahikawa Winter.
Asahikawa noodles:
Outwardly, the noodles looked just like normal Hokkaido noodles (i.e. the curly, chewy, thick ones). However, it has a lot less water content - and possibly egg content. The end result is that the texture is much drier than normal. It's denser and more filling.
Originality:
To ensure that you have a true taste of Asahikawa broth, the broths in Baikoken were deep frozen and then sent directly from Japan to Hong Kong!
That's was I call "original"!
"Santouka", another ramen shop that has been in Hong Kong for quite a while, is also from Asahikawa. But their broths and especially ramen is more similar to the Hakata style (but with a milder pork taste with a little bit of fish stock) than the "real" Asahikawa style broth and ramen. So it's not really comparable at all.
OK, so that's the theory behind it.
BAIKOKEN is an overseas branch from a ramen shop in Asahikawa, Hokkaido. It is one of the three ramen shops in Hysan place. The first one we tried was rasupermen. This was the second one. It's located inside a supermarket.
Since this ramen joint is based in Asahikawa, shoyu appears to be their signature ramen.
However, they do all three types of ramen from the Hokkaido prefecture.
Menu:
We arrived and saw a long queue. The large colourful menu was printed on the wall next to the queue. Those were classified according to the broths:
-Shoyu, Miso or Butter and
- the toppings (essentially a combination of char Sou, eggs and/or spring onions and/or bamboo shoots, pretty standard in Hong Kong by now.)
You'll have plenty of time to consider the menu because you'll be queuing for quite a while.
Unfortunately, the first impression I had was the shop's lack of efficiency:-
Taking a stand:
Essentially, there were quite a number of tables for standing diners and some table seats.
They will only sell ramen to you once seats are available, until then, you'll just be staring face to face with the cashier, peeping into their open kitchen (in which you'll see the eggs and perhaps catch a glimpse of the frozen broth) or continue to look at the menu on the wall.
The standing area with taller tables was only for the takeaway sushi shop - also run by the same supermarket (by the way, it looked pretty appetizing.)
We waited for about 30 mins. During the wait, we saw a family with a child asking the staff whether they could consume their ramen on the table stands, they don't need seats (and the child was saying he was very hungry). This was not allowed.
Another spectacle we witnessed was that two girls were enjoying their sushi at some of the table seats. The staff told them to move to the standing seats instead. They complied but their smiles vanished.
When we finally got to the queue, I asked the staff about the seating arrangements. I was told that the seats were for the sushi and sashimi shop only.
I don't understand why they don't let people use the stands. Both are managed by the same supermarket anyway.
If they did their research properly, they'd realized that its very strange - practically unheard of in Japan - to eat sushi standing.
On the other hand, it's normal to have ramen standing, especially ramen shops in train stations.
I suggest that they allow customers to use the stands, which were mostly vacant anyway. This could greatly enhance the turnover rate .
Orders:
Anyway, we ordered a miso ramen and also a bowl of shoyu ramen. We were then shown to our tables. There were hooks installed beneath the table so it's good for handbags and shoppings.
The ramen arrived after a short wait.
Noodles:
Noodles were uniquely from Asahikawa. It's similar to the Hokkaido style curly ramen (as opposed to the thin Hakata one) . It's thick but not as chewy as the normal Hokkaido ones you have at Hakodate or Sampachi.
It has less egg and less water content so it's less chewy. The texture and taste actually felt a bit like bread. Very filling.Fit for warming you up during the Hokkaido winter & Hong Kong winter.
Thick cut menma:
The menma (pickled bamboos shoots) is worth a special mention. It's very good! Thick cut, fresh, crisp and flavourful. One of the best ones I've tried in Hong Kong.
Apparently, this is another distinctive feature of Asahikawa ramen. The menma is not pickled in vinegar or salt. You can taste the fresh bamboo shoot taste of the menma.
Egg:
The egg was also very good:
Not super fluid but very flavourful. The yoke had egg taste and the white had shoyu taste.Shoyu broth:
Shoyu very good initially. Very fresh, a bit similar to the one at Hin Shou but a little bit more intense.
Unfortunately, this heavy taste coupled with their even heavier noodle made finishing it a heavy task.
Still, it's quality shoyu broth straight from Asahikawa. Worth a try. Miso Broth:
Very flavourful!
Almost like "Hakodate" the first time I tried it, with a little bit of chili powder (but not the disappointing second time).
The miso taste was very refreshing . Not too oily, salty or in any way excessive. Very well balanced!
The most balanced miso soup I've had in Hong Kong so far.
One could finish the whole bowl notwithstanding the very filling noodles.Highly recommended.
Conclusion:
Very interesting Asahikawa ramen
Aromatic shoyu broth but a bit heavy
Miso soup is very well balanced;
All in all, a positive experience.
Worth a try!
旭川派拉面？在日本有所谓：
札幌味噌
函馆塩味
旭川酱油
根据网上的资料，旭川虽然地理上处于北海道县，但是面条与汤底都有它独特之处：
麺条：
基本上与北海道其他地方的外形上相似，同样都是粗身及有点挛的。但含水量小，所以较实，饱足感高。
＂W" 汤头？
一般是把鱼介汤头（鲣鱼及其他鱼类）加入肉类汤头（豚骨或鸡骨）内 ("W" - double 汤头）。
虽然有豚骨，但不会像博多系或长浜系般有猪膻味。
（如豚王，一风堂，龙也和长浜No.1 等。）
反而会加入昆布并将猪膻味尽量去除一点。汤头颜色虽然看似混浊但其实质感幼滑。
梅光初露：
山头火虽然都是从旭川过来的，但是它不是主打元祖的旭川派拉面。
山头火的汤头猪膻味较梅光轩的重一点，已经远离旭川的而接近博多的（但应该都下了不少鱼介汤头）。
梅光轩应该是在香港暂时最正宗的旭川派拉面。
款式：
位于希慎广场地库超级市场内。对面有一家外卖寿司店。
基本上全部都好像是面壁位，应该有20-30个位。
购买的方式是：
1）排队；
2）排队期间参看墙上的餐牌。
分类基本上是味噌，酱油及盐味汤头。每款汤头再分：
基本（叉烧，葱及竹笋），牛油及粟米，及以上全部。
另有纯野菜拉面（但我相信应有猪油，所以未必适合素食者。）
餐牌亦有小量饭类及饺子等可供选择。
3）直至有座位之前，客人不能落单；
4）有位后，可以落单及付款。职员会带客人坐下；
5）等面到。
不准立食？
排队期间，见到两位少女开心地坐在位上进食同一超市售卖的寿司。
梅光轩的职员指示她们离开座位，并叫她们在立食位食寿司。
她们照辨。面上的笑容有点减退...
之后，亦见到一对家长带著小孩排队。应该已经排了好一段时间，小孩嚷著很肚饿。
家长显示他们不介意站著吃，但职员并不容许。结果他们去了买寿司，并站著吃...
在日本，站著吃拉面，簥麦面或乌冬，是很正常的事。
相反，站著吃寿司几乎闻所未闻。
（顺带一提，在日本多数地区，边走边吃都是不太有礼貌的。）
提议店方灵活（及正宗）一点，把多数时间都空置的立食位编号并开放给拉面店。
同时，留下小量座位给购买寿司的客人，相信对减省顾客等候时间及增加流量有很大帮助。
梅光拉面：有位后我们点了味噌牛油粟米及酱油拉面（加蛋）。隔了不久便到：
面条：
如上文所述，旭川的面条含水量小，粗身，密度高但不算很弹牙。
梅光轩的就是这样。几乎有点像吃面包！
份量亦颇多。天热时应有点腻，但适合御寒！？
味玉：
半熟蛋蛋味很浓郁。蛋白亦富有酱油香味。十分满意。
叉烧及旭川笋：
叉烧记忆中较瘦。印象不深。
反而值得一提的是笋：
每一块切得比较厚。吃的时候爽脆、无渣而且并没有用盐或醋腌过的痕迹。
出奇地甜美！
原来以未经腌制的笋作为拉面的配料亦是旭川派拉面另一特色。
旭川酱油：
首先喝了一口由旭川直送香港的酱油汤头。这汤头与品尚或亮亭的质感不同。
颜色相信因为与豚骨及鱼介汤混合的关系，较为深色及浊一点 - 应是「W汤头」。
入口口感幼滑。但酱油味跟品尚有点相似，大家都很鲜！梅光轩的较品尚的浓郁很多，亦比周月的浓郁。
很有特色。但与密度很高的旭川面条同吃十分饱肚，几乎不能吃掉全部。 不过，整体来说可以一试。
旭川味噌：
虽然酱油拉面似乎是本店的招牌，但我会推介味噌拉面。
汤头仍好像是「W汤头」为主，再加入味噌及小量酱油。
口感丰富但是很和谐，没有过浓或过咸的情况。
味噌甚至可以说颇为鲜甜，与北海道牛油及粟米配合得很好！
好像有小许辣椒粉。完全不能吃辣的食家要注意。
与旭川拉面同吃完全没有滞的感觉。轻易完成整碗拉面。
太太认为这里的味噌很好，比现在的函馆及一风堂的好得多(上载前刚刚吃完)，
亦比八八八丰富幼滑一点。
与龙也的质感有小许相似（但龙也的是豚骨及芝麻为主，应没有鱼的。）
推介！
总结：对梅光轩的食评可以说是好坏参半。
其中一个原因可能是因为它外表像北海道其他地区的拉面，
但其实有很多不同之处，
故吃的时候容易与想像中的味道有很大的落差。
因酱油拉面有点滞及叉烧一般，我原打算只给OK.。
但因味噌，蛋，笋，和后来才知道它是正宗旭川派的拉面，有其独特之处，所以给笑脸。
如各位抱著尝试另一派拉面的心态，相信都会是一个正面的经验。
虽然香港的冬季没有像旭川零下三十度那么冻，
但冻的时候吃一碗饱肚的旭川拉面相信亦很有风味。
推介味噌拉面。
不妨一试。
张贴
