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2015-07-02
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7.5/10 plates emptied!MAMA SAN是巴厘岛著名餐厅老板兼大厨Will Meyrick精心缔造的主打印尼菜、巴东菜但隐含著整个东南亚特色（俗称泛亚）的美食精品餐厅。Will是国际闻名的街头美食大厨，周游亚洲各国的他曾无数次收到不同地方女性交给他的传统食谱从而获得很多地道的烹饪知识和文化。MAMA SAN名字的来源也代表著东南亚各地长久以来经历的新旧饮食理念碰撞——正如亚洲男权唯尊的俱乐部里总有一个妈妈桑总管一切一样。也许也同时反映了亚洲女性地位不高，却深远地影响了当地饮食潮流走向的事实。MAMA SAN came all the way from Bali, led by the very charismatic chef, Will Meyrick, who has extensive culinary experience from Sydney to London and all across South East Asia; Carly not only felt the passion and joy dining at MAMA SAN, but a
7.5/10 plates emptied![Written by Gobay in Chinese, Carly in English]
MAMA SAN是巴厘岛著名餐厅老板兼大厨Will Meyrick精心缔造的主打印尼菜、巴东菜但隐含著整个东南亚特色（俗称泛亚）的美食精品餐厅。Will是国际闻名的街头美食大厨，周游亚洲各国的他曾无数次收到不同地方女性交给他的传统食谱从而获得很多地道的烹饪知识和文化。
MAMA SAN名字的来源也代表著东南亚各地长久以来经历的新旧饮食理念碰撞——正如亚洲男权唯尊的俱乐部里总有一个妈妈桑总管一切一样。也许也同时反映了亚洲女性地位不高，却深远地影响了当地饮食潮流走向的事实。MAMA SAN came all the way from Bali, led by the very charismatic chef, Will Meyrick, who has extensive culinary experience from Sydney to London and all across South East Asia; Carly not only felt the passion and joy dining at MAMA SAN, but also quickly realized that it requires creativity, passion and drive for excellence. Carly found Chef Meyrick exceptionally charismatic as she read through his journals on his trips around Bali, Vietnam, Burma, and Madura – his interest in street food showcased how the chef is down-to-earth, happily adventurous who appreciates local culture and habitats, aiming to discover and preserve exotic ways of cooking. Chef Meyrick hopes to capture your hearts by offering the living, breathing and hearty city culture on the table, with a splash and dash of authenticity wrapped in glamor.
Upbeat modern decor, fancy in a fun way, mixed with high stables and stools by the window side will be a perfect spot for drinks, long wooden tables great for gatherings and big group chillouts, sofa corners are best spots for close friends.
除了理念以外，Will对东南亚各地的特色配方和香料的研究和热爱，巨细无遗地反映在他的食物里，在之后介绍的食物里，你们会感受到一个真正热爱烹饪和调味的厨师的那份暖人心意，而这份心意更促使了我们的Carly去细读了他的游记——这是一个多么浪漫的『相识相知』的过程！
餐厅装潢依然是如巴厘岛总店一样的工业仓库的怀旧风格，墙上最瞩目的还是那位风情万种的上海女性，画中的她仍是一副羞涩不看顾客的姿态。老实说，她应该不是纯华人女性，五官像南亚裔混血儿......好了不说题外话，进入本篇的食物主题——菜单大部分源自Chef Will，但主理香港MAMA SAN的闻说是追随他近10年尽得真传的Chef Gede，我们一起来看看他是怎样揉合东南亚菜和香港人口味的：《Lunch Set》
【Slow cooked pork belly with green papaya som tum and Southern Goan snapper curry with okra fenugreek curry leaves, yoghurt and coconut milk | 慢煮五花腩，衬印度果阿咖哩鲷鱼，配青木瓜沙律 | HKD168】Spot on pork belly! Slow cooked till the fat turned succulent juicy, melts in your mouth, with the pork belly dissolving on your palate, crispy on the edges, and mildly sweet seasoned with a caramel glazed skin, we can have one whole plate of this, the pork belly was the REASON why the Gang will come back to MAMA SAN. Fenugreek leaves, wonderful Indian plant commonly used amongst Andhra Brahmin households; goes perfectly well with a simple yellow curry base.
Crucial to Indian culture, remember how in the movie of《Three Idiots》Rajol’s mom was complaining about the prices of Fenugreek leaves been climbing up, then you will realize how these herbs are as vital as cilantro or shallots in Chinese food culture. The mild heat spreads to the tips of your tongue with warmth lingering afterwards, and interestingly it’s good for digestion too! Green papaya was bit too raw but some liked it for its citrusy sauce for starters.
对于好味道的猪腩肉相信大家心里都有杆称，推荐本菜给具备「仲有最爱的猪腩肉」情怀的朋友。这道菜虽名为「慢煮」但它成功地只把油脂部分变软腍，瘦肉的部分竟然是脆韧的，麦芽糖般的微甜夹杂著肉鲜和油脂的甘香散开在口中，这时再加一啖泰国香米饭，实为人生一乐也！慢煮，源自法文Sous Vide，通常指把食物酱料封入真空袋在最适宜该材料的低温下长时间烹煮，使得食物嫩滑软腍之余，还充分吸收酱汁的美味，食材的原味和纤维也不会受到破坏。
这里的猪腩肉慢煮后拿去煎封四面，大大的增加了口感。青木瓜沙律无甚特别但胜在不太辣，怕辣的食友都可以浅尝。至于特别的印度果阿咖喱，香港能吃到果阿菜的地方非常少，这也是我们的第一次。果阿在印度南部，曾经有400多年葡萄牙殖民地历史，它的菜肴揉合了印度菜和葡国菜的特色，而鱼肉则几乎是果阿菜里灵魂般的存在。
它没印度咖喱那么油腻，也没有葡国咖喱那么「椰奶浓」，而且辣度很适中，很好的味道。里面加了秋葵和南印常用的香料Fenugreek leaf即Methi Leaf——香细叶，有很浓的苦味，必须混合其他多种印度香料一起熬煮才能提炼出独特的果仁香。秋葵是印度咖喱文化非常重要的一环，看过电影《Three Idiots》的食友想必还记得Rajol的母亲抱怨秋葵又加价了。正如开篇所说，简单的一份午市套餐饱含了大厨的心意：西方的慢煮、泰国的青木瓜沙律、南印度的咖喱——而且迎合了港人口味：不太辣，不太油，简直是时尚的味道。
【Stir fry chicken with chilli garlic long bean baby corn holy basil, jasmine rice runny fried egg and light daikon chicken broth | 辣炒蒜香鸡肉粒，配太阳蛋香米饭和清新萝卜鸡汤 | HKD138】The chicken bits were chopped into bits and stir fried with some very pleasant holy basil, these widely spread basils are proven to be stress relievers, Carly was amazed of how caring MAMA SAN’s menu was to one’s health and mood. The basil leaves tasted rather earthy yet mild in its way, diners who do not fancy heavy exotic spices can certainly opt for this relatively simple and light meal. The fried egg was not so runny, a bit overcooked, jasmine rice was not too pronounced in the pandan-like nutty flavor. This would have been good if only the daikon chicken broth was not so salty.
鸡肉切成碎粒夹著新鲜嘎抛（或叫甲抛即Holy Basil）,是典型的泰国菜。嘎抛是比泰式罗勒辣和香的泰国常用香草。泰国嘎抛和前道菜提及的南印香细叶都是对身体很有好处的香辛料。嘎抛在印度也很出名，叫Tulsi,食用或制成茶包饮用可以减压和抗老化；香细叶Methi则有降胆固醇、降血糖血脂和增强免疫力等功效。虽然太阳蛋不太「糖心」，但我们还是觉得鸡肉碎拌香米饭挺美味。至于萝卜鸡汤就太咸，原本看到菜单上用「Daikon」即「大根」，日本叫法，汤就会好似日本菜一样清淡为主，谁知刚好相反！不过，主角够好，配角我们可以省略不计。
【Crispy salmon with green mango and sweet fish sauce, Cambodian Duck curry with sweet potatoes shallots peanuts | 青芒鱼露脆煎三文鱼，配柬埔寨式鸭肉番薯咖喱 | HKD138】Never thought sweet potatoes would go well with the yellow/red curry combo! Carly found this curry to be sweeter as the mushy sweet potatoes, shallots and peanuts gave a more nutty touch rather than coconut based flavor to it. Highlight goes to the velvety, tender, flavorsome salmon chunks from the salad, well-seasoned with fish sauce, cooked just on the spot, pink to its core.
薯仔是咖喱的「天下无双生命伴侣」我们明白，但番薯却是认真地少见，而且味道还那么搭！前面的套餐有果阿咖喱，这里再来柬埔寨咖喱，今次令我们大开眼界、口界！柬埔寨最著名的就是Khmer红咖喱——高棉红咖喱。鸭肉、鲜椰汁和Kroeung咖喱酱混合制成，没有泰国咖喱那么辣，姜味比较重。鸭肉不会很干身，花生碎增加了口感之余还加了些果仁香，而番薯的甜和粉将各种元素很匀称地综合在一起，配合尖仔米饭一起食实在不俗！三文鱼也是一大亮点：切开三文鱼你会发现里面还有红色没有全熟的鱼肉！半生熟的炙三文鱼肉加上清爽的青芒鱼露，非常美味！
【Beetroot salad with paneer and chat masala, cauliflower Sambar curry with dahl eggplant tamarind and fresh Coriander | 甜菜根沙律，配菜花茄子青咖喱 | HKD118】Vegetarian choice! Beetroot salad was rather appetizing and healthy chunks , the green curry was relatively spicy compared to other curry combos.
Take notice of how each lunch item is cooked in a different sauce base, showcasing how diverse and dynamic Southeast Asian herbs and spices can be.
这个是为素食人士准备的：营养方面有甜菜根，菜花，茄子等，这个搭配几乎可以说是全方位兼顾到人体所需。咖喱比前文提及的都要辣上一点，但幼玉米的甜嫩加上泰式罗勒的香味又中和了部分的辣，整道菜平衡得很好。
【Claypot caramelized snapper with young coconut water black pepper, green mango and thai basil |瓦锅料理：椰皇水黑椒红烧鲷鱼| HKD238】Ambrosial scent was bursting with flavors as it was served in that hot claypot! Snapper meat was firm and some caramelized ones had relatively hard edges, nonetheless, crunchy in general. Shredded green mango adding a sweet touch, they went a bit heavy on the basil and black pepper, undoubtedly, will need a bowl of rice to go with the thick sauce.
上台伊始，这道瓦锅菜就散发出浓郁诱人的香味！鱼肉鲜实，某些边位还微脆，外脆内嫩的口感加上外层微甜的腌汁，青芒丝加入了爽的口感外带甜酸果香，尽管黑椒和泰式罗勒的味道有些浓重，但这绝对是送饭一流之选。有人问那么浓的酱汁，清淡的椰皇水就等于白放了。椰皇水味道比普通椰青汁更浓，最重要的是它润肺清热，可以平衡青芒和黑椒所带来的燥——几乎每道菜我们都能接收到大厨对食客的厚重心意，又是一刻感动的瞬间。【Stir fry pork neck with Bamboo ginger green peppercorns and holy basil | 竹笋青胡椒炒猪颈肉 | HKD198】
Ginger green peppercorns were refreshingly spicy compared to black peppercorns that are often used in western dishes. The pork neck was not overcooked but some did taste coarse on the palate, the abundant portions of holy basil will certainly overwhelm you if you aren't a fan of it.
这味猪颈肉对比其他几款菜式没什么特别之处，尽管运用了比黑胡椒辣度低然而新鲜清香的青胡椒，但猪颈肉稍嫌钝糙的口感加上与之不是很搭配的过量的Holy basil，整个菜顿时被我们抛「猪」「嘴」后。
【Stir fry chicken with chilli jam, long bean baby corn, galangal chilli and Thai basil | 良姜辣椒豆角炒鸡肉 | HKD178】Chili jam was indeed pretty heaty and the chicken was softer and more tender compared to the stir fry pork neck we had. Galangal is a rhizome of plants in the ginger family, for culinary and medical uses originated from Indonesia which makes this another healthy dish served at MAMA SAN.
这道菜味道挺霸道的，也比之前的咖哩要辣，因为有辣椒酱、辣椒和良姜三种味觉嗅觉都具一定辛辣气息的材料。鸡肉比之前说的猪颈肉要柔软多汁，如果大家有尝过我们之前写过的湾仔生记海鲜舫的炒鸡球，这个的口感和火候仍是稍逊一筹，尽管味道不错。良姜又称高良姜，原产自印尼，在广东其实非常常见，大家经常吃的卤水食品，良姜就是主角之一，另外超级市场卖的五香粉的其中一种原料就是良姜粉。它有很霸道的辛辣气味，可以温脾祛寒、行气止痛——反正普通生姜能做的它都能，就是比较橘红色，味道比较刺激。写到这里，Gobay由衷地对Chef Will和Chef Gede有了敬意，开始觉得制作出这样的菜单的Chef Will简直是一个「Will长今」——东南亚香辛药膳菜式的杰出代表，但别忘了，他是一个苏格兰人，却将亚洲香料用得出神入化！
【Dendeng Balado caramelized short rib beef with pounded chilli, kaffir lime & lemon basil | 巴东式炸辣牛肋排 | HKD198】Dendeng refers to thinly sliced dried meat, more condensed in meaty taste, preserved through mixture of sugar and spice, skillfully evalates the intense flavors of the juicy, delectable short rib beef. As a die-hard fan of Ho Lee Fook, Carly had to admit that this was so darn good, consider this as par with Chef Jowett's renowned wagyu short ribs. Kaffir lime added extra pinch of acidity and fragrance o tone down the overall saltiness and sweetness, this dish was one to return for, Carly's stomach is growling thinking about those soft, tender beef ribs!
这道小牛肋排应该是这么多的菜里最让人觉得惊艳的。印尼菜里苏门答腊的巴东菜（Padang Food）属于佼佼者（另外有爪哇菜、锡江菜和棉兰菜等等），巴东菜名菜「Dendeng Balado」是一种常见的街头小吃：炸辣牛肉。「Dendeng」是类似我们所知的肉干的制作方法，而「Dendeng Balado」其实就是把牛肉放到辣椒油里炸到半透半干，作下酒菜一绝！我们一般吃小牛肋排都是软身的，在浓郁的酱汁里将它焖煮到极致，然后肉骨分离地上台，感受它的肉筋相互融在口中的快感。但这道小牛肋排上台非常干身，先用多种香料和糖酱腌制过，Gobay专门请教了他们所用的香料，他们特别提及了cardamon即小荳蔻，还拿了一碟给我们看，是品质好的青色荳蔻，不是较差的白荳蔻。小荳蔻有消食的作用，最适宜和肉类一起烹煮，味道峻烈芬芳。腌入味后再经高温油锅收干部分水分，所以吃起来外层酥脆内里肉质滑嫩，突出的甜香带著丝丝辣意，加上泰国青柠（kaffir lime）和柠檬罗勒的酸和清新，整道菜肴的层次多得难以形容。连作为口利福疯狂拥趸的Carly都做了一次「二五仔」，觉得这是可以和口利福的和牛小肋排媲美的一道佳肴！
【Chai Tea | 印度香茶 | Additional HKD25】Mama San's Chai Tea was crowd-pleasingly impressive as the natural tea aroma was very mind-soothing and exquisite in the subtle herbs fragrance, not very strong on the nose but then with a drop of syrup, the sensational tea is well-balanced and refreshing to pair with southeast cuisine. The staff said that they spent up to a day to brew these herbs tea, not going to lie but this was sooooo good. Carly has always been a huge fan of Chai tea, this unique blend from MAMA SAN satisfied all her cravings!
这杯印度香茶最了不起的是它不但保留那让人心神怡静的自然茶香，配搭上其他淡淡而不呛的香料，喝下后便会觉得这是一个非常舒服的一天。店员们说他们会花上一整天的时间烹煮这杯香茶，难怪那么的爱不释手！《Desserts》
Desserts are all additional HKD30 during lunch time, it’s so worth it! Don’t miss out on these!
午餐时间只要加HKD30就可以拥有一款甜品，吉碟帮品尝过觉得绝对不容错过！
【“Kampung snicker” peanut butter parfait with butterscotch & chocolate coated peanuts |「乡村版士力架」——花生酱奶油芭菲配朱古力花生和咸奶油糖碎】Kampung, defined as village in Malaysia. Snickers – globally spread nougat topped with caramel and peanut, enrobed in milk chocolate kind of chocolate bar. Carly loved this chilled peanut butter parfait, ultra-smooth creamy, the nutty flavors were mind blobbing as the rich buttery aroma was not cloying sweet and rather scrumptious!
「Kampung」在马拉语中是乡村的意思，士力架众所周知是内含烤花生和焦糖的牛奶朱古力棒。芭菲，可以理解为装在高脚杯里的新地雪糕类的物体——这里主要是说它集合了花生酱和奶油经过冰冻后形成的冻糕，我们的甜品专家Carly非常喜爱这道甜品，因其口感相当幼滑，含丰富的果仁香味，而且不会太甜腻，是一道会带给你惊喜的甜品。
【Lemongrass panna cotta with cucumber lime jelly served with lemon basil sorbet | 香茅奶冻，青瓜青柠啫哩配柠檬罗勒雪芭】Best dessert in the house! Summery, refreshing, and indulging as the top layer of icy citrusy lime jelly went so perfectly well with the panna cotta, bursting in energizing lemongrass scent, the bouncy jelly and creamy panna cotta was the best combo ever. Better yet, the lime sorbet was considerably sour and pungent but very decent and icy in a nice way.
这是一道让Gobay都赞叹不已的意式奶冻雪芭。它的顶部是柠檬罗勒雪芭，非常清新的酸甜，一勺子下去，就吃到下一层的青瓜青柠啫喱，再深一点就舀到嫩滑的香茅奶冻，口感和味道三重奏，而且一大顿午餐后吃一口这个，酸酸甜甜冻冻的甜品，感觉又给你力量再大吃一顿！
【Black Sticky rice with mango and coconut milk | 芒果椰汁紫米露】See how did MAMA SAN do a traditional dessert dish? Sticky rice with mango and condensed coconut milk, Carly used to cook purple glutinous rice pudding very often when she studied abroad, just coz it was easy and very filling, healthy too? (just don't add too much crystalized sugar or coconut milk ) but what does it do if there weren’t enough condensed milk? Coconut milk, with the right consistency and tad sweetened, complemented with the slightly chewy and soft black sticky rice. Mangoes, freshly sliced, not something you want to miss in a black sticky rice dessert.
Carly在海外求学期间就经常煮少糖少椰奶的紫米露，又易满足口腹之欲又健康。她所期待的传统甜品MAMA SAN毫不意外地做得十分出色：紫米露柔软中又带点坚韧——很像我们人类的个性吧——芒果很新鲜很甜，再加上浓度放得恰到好处的椰奶，「椰」！
MAMA SAN deserves all the recognition for modifying Asian street food into nicely presented buoyant dining experience, like a shining gem situated in the hidden corner of famed Lan Kwai Fong, heart of Central. Noteworthy that the staff was very accommodating even when we were all creating a huge mess at the scene as it was Lorling’s birthday when we visited, as you can picture we were loud, running around, asking. 12 hungry customers, left with happy stuffed tummies. Aside from Chef Jason Atherton, think Carly has spotted another favorite, Chef Will Meyrick, will you amaze us more?
一句道破，MAMA SAN绝对是值得一般食客甚至饕餮认真对待的餐厅。它就像是一份隐世瑰宝沉寂在中环等待我们去发掘。Chef Will对香辛料的了解和运用，对东南亚各地食物和文化的用心融合，除了得益他的街头和市场游走经历，还有一众不吝于与他分享传统食谱的「Mama San」，难怪他要向她们致敬。
餐厅的服务也是非常不错，当日是为Lorling庆祝生日，我们一共12人的排场还不断游走于拍照、食饭、聊天和玩耍之间，他们也是一直耐心而快乐地在旁帮忙和解答我们的问题，使得我们的用餐经历非常愉快。我们期待Chef Will继续扩张他的餐饮帝国，期待他带来更多健康好味的惊喜！
题外话/补充资料：
* Lunch sets are must-try!
*必食午市套餐！
(以上食记乃用户个人意见 , 并不代表OpenRice之观点。)
张贴
