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2016-02-14
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丰富多彩的怀石料理，101楼的维港景色，友善体贴的服务，最适合喜庆约会。Elegant Japanese fine dining.Excellent sashimi.Exquisite view from 101 floor.Great service.Worth a try. 太太生日饭是绝对不容有失。要选一间有点浮夸之余又有实力的并不容易。虽然之前从未光顾田舍家，但朋友们都对它评价不错，自己亦做了点功课，对它有信心，于是就立定主意订位。订位时已发觉炉端烧位全满，只剩下铁板烧位或四方抬。反正对炉端烧兴趣不大，所以我选择了进可攻，退可守的铁板烧位，以策万全。(意思是太太如想吃铁板烧的话，我们已占地利，如想吃其他亦可。)Where to go for one's wife's birthday is an important question. It must be spot on. This year I decided to go for something slightly extravagent yet safe: Inakaya.Inakaya is located at t
101楼的维港景色，
友善体贴的服务，
最适合喜庆约会。
Elegant Japanese fine dining.
Excellent sashimi.
Exquisite view from 101 floor.
Great service.
Worth a try.
太太生日饭是绝对不容有失。要选一间有点浮夸之余又有实力的并不容易。虽然之前从未光顾田舍家，但朋友们都对它评价不错，自己亦做了点功课，对它有信心，于是就立定主意订位。
订位时已发觉炉端烧位全满，只剩下铁板烧位或四方抬。反正对炉端烧兴趣不大，所以我选择了进可攻，退可守的铁板烧位，以策万全。(意思是太太如想吃铁板烧的话，我们已占地利，如想吃其他亦可。)
Where to go for one's wife's birthday is an important question. It must be spot on. This year I decided to go for something slightly extravagent yet safe: Inakaya.
Inakaya is located at the 101 floor of the ICC building. I seem to recall that it used to do robotayaki only. Robotayaki refers to a style of eatery in which the chef grills skewers and then serve the skewers directly to the customer through an oar. It's a reference to the origin of robotayaki, namely, fishermen grilling their food by the seaside and then serving it with the aid of their oars.
Other than Robotayaki, Inakaya also serves other types of Japanese cuisines such as Teppanyaki, Kaiseki, Sushi and tempura.
田舍家占地颇大，有炉端烧位，寿司吧位，铁板烧位，大量4-8人枱。应有数间贵宾房。店内非常热闹，其实很适合大伙人。幸好，铁板烧位自成一角，较为清静，亦能将101楼的维港夜景尽收眼帘。
Inakaya is modern, elegant and very spacious. Of course, there is the wonderful view of the Victoria Harbour. They have normal tables, sushi counters, Teppanyaki counters and VIP rooms. It's actually very suitable for big groups.
我们点了「野泽料理长お任せ」 和「田舍家お任せ」。店方上菜的节奏很好，两个不同的餐生熟食物不尽相同，但都做到大致同步。(怀石料理中有很多菜式是没有特别名称的，所以以下有些食物名是我跟据菜式材料来改的，请勿见怪。)
One could only order robotayaki at special robotayaki counters but not at other tables/counters. We sat at a Teppanyaki counter that evening but weren't too keen about Teppanyaki so we went for two "omakese" (chef's recommendation) sets instead. One was called "Chef Nozawa's Kaiseki" and the other was "Inakaya Omakase".
野泽料理长发板:Nozawa Omakase:
前菜
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鲣鱼节番石榴: 爽脆鲜甜的番石榴配上适量的鲣鱼节。配搭简单但味道很有层次感。
番石榴下两块类似蛋糕的东西其实真的是蛋糕- 但是蛋糕箱押鲭鱼。概念其实是将箱押寿司的饭换作蛋糕，很创新的配搭。蛋糕松化而清甜，鲭鱼肉质结实，醋味适中。很不错。
ずんだ豆腐 (Zunda Tofu) : 枝豆蓉豆腐。 枝豆蓉这材料其实经常用于怀石料理或其他日式糕点。用在豆腐内除了令颜色变绿之外，亦令豆腐增添一点枝豆特有的味道和令质感更为烟韧。豆腐上的蟹肉亦很鲜甜。
焯熟了的甜虾上有鱼子酱。甜虾有很多虾糕，鲜味和咸香并重。味觉上与其他菜式完全不同。
右上角白色的是白箩卜，内有明太子。味道较精新而且手工精致。
右下角的是鲭鱼或池鱼南蛮渍け。相信大家对南蛮渍应不会陌生。基本上是用醋，葱和红萝卜来腌各种食物 (多数是鸡和某几种鱼)。这味渍鱼味道正宗，不会过酸或过淡。
每一道前菜都很有诚意。每一种味道都很突出但很协调。
Nozawa: Appetizers (from left to right)
Guava with fish flake: very fresh and firm guava with bonito flakes. Light sweetness mixed with a bit of umami makes a very interesting combination indeed.
Saba Cake ( for want of a better translation): The two pieces of cake-like items were really saffron cakes, but combined with vinegar marinated Saba pressed into the cake. This combination is very original and the taste was very harmonious, to my surprise.
Zunda tofu: The green color of what essentially is a piece of tofu came from "Zunda", a paste made from edamame. This made the texture of the tofu more chewy. In Okinawa there is a type of tofu called Peanut tofu, also similarity chewy.
Broiled shrimp with caviar: There was a lot of shrimp miso in the shrimp, which is fairly uncommon. The shrimp miso, together with the caviar, really increased the umami.
Daikon with mentaigo (top right): a very delicately made item. A very thin piece of daikon with a small opening carved into it and then filled with mentaigo (fish roes). Apart from the lovely visual effect, the combination of crisp daikon (white radish) with the saline umami of mentaigo was good.
The final appetizer at bottom left is "Saba (?) nanban": Those who are familiar with Japanese cuisine should be familiar with this one. Essentially it's fish marinated with vinegar, spring onions and carrot. The relatively sharp taste served its purpose of awakening the taste buds for the dishes to come.
Very impressive indeed.
三点刺身拼盘
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从照片已能看到海胆非常新鲜，分量慷慨。大拖罗温度刚好，入口即溶，鲜味爆灯。牡丹虾同样新鲜，肉厚而爽。山葵是生磨的，香草亦色泽漂亮。
老实说，一向认为在香港很多由集团经营的日本餐厅的刺身都是不太新鲜或性价比低，所以并没有太大期望。但太太和我都觉得这里的刺身非常赞。实在出乎意料。
(Nozawa) Assorted sashimi:
Very generous amount of fresh uni which were bursting with umami. I forgot to ask where those were from but probably from Hokkaido.
Ootoro and shrimp: Again, both were very fresh. The temperature of the sashimi were just right. The ootoro in particular was bursting with umami.
茶壶汤
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(野泽)茶壶汤: 用鱼，虾，香菜，带子和鲣鱼节来熬的清汤鲜味浓郁。提议加点青柠汁，能大大提升鲜味。Teapot soup: Made of white bodied fish, shrimps, vegetables, scallops and grated (cod?). Remember to add a bit of lime and eat everything in the pot. Delicious.
炸鳕场蟹脚
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旁边的是炸鸡肉露荀卷，茄子和大叶(紫须叶)。三款去油攻夫都做得很好，感觉松化又不油腻。得别是炸大叶是相当难炸得好的。
Fried taraba crab leg and other fried items: Not as good as it looked. Slightly dry in the middle. The one next to it is fried asparagus wrapped with chicken breast, fried eggplant and fried shiso.
烧香鱼
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这烧鱼属于中上以上的水准。鱼肉鲜甜但鱼身可再烧得结实一点。在香港，我较喜欢「佐濑」的烧香鱼。
The fish itself is not that expensive but grilling an ayu can be a real test of a chef's skills because of it's small size and body proportion. This grilled ayu was above average. The fish had umami but the meat could be firmer. I prefer the one at "Sushi Sase".
杂炊
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One could choose either udon or egg congee. My wife choose the latter. Standard fare in Japanese set meals. Decent.
煮もの
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Melon and Dried Tofu in Fish Stock is certainly a very "kaiseki" dish. The lightness of taste and freshness of ingredients remind me of Kyoto cuisine. The fresh melon went very well with the extremely sweet carrot. My wife really enjoyed it.
甜品有蜜瓜和芝士蛋糕。蜜瓜好像不是静冈的但尚算清甜。由于太饱的关系，将芝士蛋糕带走。太太说很不错。
A slice of melon and a lovely piece of cheese cake to conclude the dinner.
田舍家 套餐:
Inakaya Omakase:
只是摆法不同，但和野泽的前菜相同。Same as the Nozawa Kaiseki but with a different presentation.
刺身
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另外有雕鱼和𫚕鱼。鲜度亦不错。雕鱼吃后有一股淡淡的鲜甜味恒久不散。𫚕(はまち)鱼肉质结实，同样令人满意。
The assorted sashimi was just as good as the Nozawa Kaiseki. It came with Tai, Hamachi and Akami. The Akami was incredibly fresh, not to be taken for granted as it tends to lose its freshness far more rapidly than other types of fish. The tai in particular was very good.
寿司
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火炙白身鱼寿司: 不太肯定是甚么鱼。但火炙成功地带出脂香，烧得不错。
The two pieces of sushi (uni and grilled white bodied fish) did not look much but the uni in particular had very good umami.
宫崎和牛
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Miyazaki wagyu: Relatively oilier than other types of wagyu with a rich taste.
天妇罗
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可能因这心态，令我觉得这里的天妇罗很不错。所有炸浆都绝不油腻，外层松化之余内层不会过硬，而是有点像薄薄的面包均匀地包著食才。鲜甜的天妇罗鳕场蟹脚尤其出色，比野泽套餐的炸鳕场蟹脚优胜得多。大虾亦是新鲜货色。露荀爽脆无渣，南瓜够粉，番薯清甜结实。非常满意。
As far as tempura restaurants in Hong Kong are concerned, it's hard to beat the tempura served at "Ippou". Nevertheless, those served here were far better than my initial expectations. The batters were crunchy and not oily and the ingredients used fresh.
烧银鳕鱼
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Cod fish: Most probably grilled with mirin (a Japanese condiment similar to sweet wine) instead of miso. Generous portion and good timing.
炒饭
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Finally, the teppanyaki standard fried rice had fish, egg and carrorts. The addition of yuzu, which gave a lovely, refreshing citrus aroma, was most interesting and welcomed.
甜品亦有蜜瓜和芝士蛋糕。
Finally, a slice of melon and cheesecake to complete the wonderful birthday dinner.
总结:
两个怀石料理套餐各有千秋。野泽料理长怀石的刺身较好，菜式整体较考手工，精致和清淡，有点京都料理的影子。太太很喜欢这套餐。
田舍家套餐则倾向熟食，食物份量比野泽的多一点。相比之下好像豪迈一点。我较喜欢这个。
无论侍应或铁板烧师傅都非常友善，服务周到。冷气冻可以调低，亦有毛毡供应。
近来发现香港的日本菜水平质量已不停改善，非常接近日本。是值很高兴的事。
当然，最重要的还是太太吃得开心。任务成功 - Mission Complete!
Conclusion:
The Nozawa Kaiseki had better quality sashimi than the Inakaya Set. It also felt more "Japanese" because of it's light flavour and emphasis on skill and the original taste of the ingredients. My wife prefers this set.
On the other hand, the Inakaya Set had more cooked food. I also find it more wholesome. I prefer this set.
The bill came down to $1980 per person plus 10% service.
Birthday dinner - Mission Complete!
张贴
