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2009-05-18
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To say I was trying to pursuit 集体回忆 like everyone these days at Ngau Tau Kok (牛头角下村) would be an oxymoron as I had no significant memories about it to begin with. However, reviews on several eateries here did caught my attention, as there are indeed a few places that serve food rather unconventional and hard to find. One of them being 源发潮州粉面, a pork offal specialist.The tiny unassuming store is located right next to 兴记茶餐厅. While there are other items like fish balls or dumplings available (n
To say I was trying to pursuit 集体回忆 like everyone these days at Ngau Tau Kok (牛头角下村) would be an oxymoron as I had no significant memories about it to begin with. However, reviews on several eateries here did caught my attention, as there are indeed a few places that serve food rather unconventional and hard to find. One of them being 源发潮州粉面, a pork offal specialist.
The tiny unassuming store is located right next to 兴记茶餐厅. While there are other items like fish balls or dumplings available (no beef though), my friends and I opted for their signature pork dishes: 蝴蝶腩河, 卤水炆猪肺 and 猪杂汤. These items are rare finds for me as
- pork lungs are prohibited in the US. Though I have heard that some Mexican eateries serve them as “specials”(and are deep fried!), I have never come across pork lungs in the US.
- Every time I had pork lungs in Hong Kong, they were in form of a Chinese soup. A marinated style 卤水 is a first for me.
- I seldom had 猪杂 except may be with congee.
Suddenly these humble dishes that have been the staples for many people all these years became special treats for us (yes, we felt ignorant). The chef behind the counter promptly prepared our orders like he did for thousands of other customers – he whipped out the simmering ingredients, poured scorching hot soups over, and topped them with scallions, garlic, and pickled vegetables (which I asked for extra).
We shared all the dishes so we could get a taste of everything. The portions were humongous! There were a least 10 pieces of 蝴蝶腩 on top of the rice noodle (蝴蝶腩河) and probably more than 20 piecies of 卤水炆猪肺[/b], all came in dark brown hue due to the long simmer in their secret 潮式卤水. 蝴蝶腩, a combination of chewy membrane and tender meat, resembled beef brisket 牛腩 but leaner and less gamey. Some meat was a little tough (有点靭), so perhaps if we had visited at night the meat would be softer after longer hours of simmering. The marinade had penetrated deeply into the meat, and gave a great flavor to the noodle and the broth.
I was more impressed by the 卤水炆猪肺. I must admit that I am biased as I love pork lungs, but these lungs were not really the same as the ones for soup which tended to be extremely soft. Instead there were pieces that were bouncy and elastic, while others were very tender. The abundance of 脆管 was the highlight for me as they were so crunchy (爽脆) and filled every bite! The marinade aroma was even more pronounced as the lungs were like sponges and soaked up all the essence. Eating the whole bowl was very filling but I couldn’t help myself to get one piece after another!
猪杂汤 came with a clear broth with a combination of boiled pork offals (猪心、猪润、粉肠、猪肚, and no 猪肺). Without the Chiu Chow marinade this dish was the most simple and clean flavored among the three, with the natural taste of these organs shone. Plenty of lettuce came with the dishes, so besides having offal I had ample vegetable consumption for that day, another rarity for me
They are quite heavy-handed on their MSG, so if you can control yourself, try not to drink too much broth…
源发 - A new memory with a few new dishes for me!
张贴
