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2015-02-02
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6.5/10 plates emptied!近期在“香港最热”除了Gordon Ramsey，要数Jamie Oliver。其实他一直都是以快速烹调健 康美食出名, 并且提倡用最新鲜和健康的食材。由于制作方法简单，很多人跟著他的烹调节目和书学著做也可以把食物做得好吃，因此他曾一度风头无两，名声大噪但同时他也是个毁誉参半的明星厨师，感兴趣的朋友上Google一查便知他的主题餐厅在香港落户后引起了一片风潮，很多食评随之诞生这家餐厅和他的人一样——毁誉参半。我们吉碟帮也不落人后，实地追击了一下这家热门餐厅。Carly提前一个月在网上预订了7人台但我们并没有抱很大期望因为我们知道Jamie’s出品实质上是简单的家庭式食品和商业炒作的结合。Jamie Oliver, the celebrity chef who is renowned globally for his inspired dishes & homemade cooking; his style traces back to originality, simplicity and healthy cooking of Italian
[Written by Carly in English, Gobay in Chinese]
近期在“香港最热”除了Gordon Ramsey，要数Jamie Oliver。其实他一直都是以快速烹调健 康美食出名, 并且提倡用最新鲜和健康的食材。由于制作方法简单，很多人跟著他的烹调节目和书学著做也可以把食物做得好吃，因此他曾一度风头无两，名声大噪但同时他也是个毁誉参半的明星厨师，感兴趣的朋友上Google一查便知他的主题餐厅在香港落户后引起了一片风潮，很多食评随之诞生这家餐厅和他的人一样——毁誉参半。我们吉碟帮也不落人后，实地追击了一下这家热门餐厅。Carly提前一个月在网上预订了7人台但我们并没有抱很大期望因为我们知道Jamie’s出品实质上是简单的家庭式食品和商业炒作的结合。
Jamie Oliver, the celebrity chef who is renowned globally for his inspired dishes & homemade cooking; his style traces back to originality, simplicity and healthy cooking of Italian and American dishes. Having a branch opened in Hong Kong, created such uproar amongst foodies in Hong Kong, but at the same time, stirred a wave of mixed reviews. Some say that this has been a downright disappointment, while others claim that Jamie’s Italian is the spot for affordable good food. Let’s be fair – Carly booked a group of 7 for lunch one month ahead, anticipation was inevitable but expectations were not high as we wanted to give a fair judgment for Jamie’s Italian as an additional Italian, slightly Americanized restaurant chain in Hong Kong for the food lovers to get a taste of what it means by organic, homemade style of cooking.
Carly was quite in awe of the spectacular high ceiling and contemporary interior decor at Jamie’s Italian – a concrete wall of modern colorful hand painted portrait of Asian mermaid beauty and flower blossoms with the Chinese characters of “Pearl of the Island” (岛上明珠) was the most eye‐catching. The open kitchen clearly showed how the team was spending time cutting fresh & cured meat, making pasta, cutting cheese. Bundles of dried ham, onions, and sausages stringed together, hanging on top of the shelves. A vintage mixture of high tables, half‐circled leather sofa, and table for two laid out the setting which is quite family friendly and also suitable for any size of social gathering.
进入了餐厅后，我们发现整个装潢很有欧洲美国混合的风格，他们连洗手间都不放过，还有点复古的味道，非常有趣。店里的大水泥墙上有著亚裔美人鱼和 “岛上明珠”的字样。开放式的预备厨房里吊著一串串的洋葱和蒜头，还有几只倒吊的风干火腿我们还能清楚看到一部部红色的切火腿机，芝士切片机和意粉机。这里很有意大利餐馆的风格，还间接展示给客人看餐厅用的意粉都是新鲜制作的。座位方面有适合大班人聚会的卡位皮凳，适合两两聊天的吧台，四人家庭式的木圆台，就环境而论适合各式的聚会
Bellini | Prosecco & peach puree | HKD45Starting the meal with a glass of champagne based bellini, Prosecco, a relatively dry taste of Italian sparkling white wine. The spoon of peach puree gave the drink a right kick of sweetness and sourness, not so much fruity but not bad.
Prosecco是意大利气泡酒，这杯Bellini是由其作基底加上桃子蓉调制成。桃子的甜味较好
地平衡了Prosecco的酸硬，而且使果味馥郁味道还算可口外形靓丽，金黄色的液体上有
一勺大小的粉红桃子蓉，很清新怡人。
[Starters & Planks] 前菜 &小吃
Spinach & Taleggio Croquettes | with basil mayo | HKD70Carly was feeling skeptical about ordering croquettes at an Italian restaurant but to her surprise, the croquettes were crispy on outside, and quite flavorful with loads of chopped spinach melted together with the taleggio, semi‐soft, smear‐ripened Italian cheese. It was quite chewy on the palate yet not as pungent as it should have been. The extra dip of basil mayo made the croquettes even more flavorsome as the basil herb aroma coped well with this delightful snack.
Croquette也是Carly的至爱之一，基本去欧式餐厅必点。这里的做法十分传统到位，土豆、面粉、菠菜和芝士——外皮有脆实的口感，炸得挺透；作为馅料的菠菜和意大利芝士Taleggio融为一体这种芝士本身就很软身而且香味复杂，加上适当的罗勒蛋黄酱调味味道和口感都不俗。[Pasta] 意粉
Sausage Pappardelle| Braised fennel sausage ragu with incredible Chianti, Parmesan & pangrattato | HKD80/135Interestingly, the sausage ragu being grinded into bits and pieces tasted quite like beef rather than pork. Chianti, any wine that is produced from the Chianti area of central Tuscany in Italy created a taste of red wine braised beef cheeks kind of flavor to the dish. Finely shredded Parmesan and pangrattato, the dried type of bread crumbs were sprinkled on top of the pasta for breading and crumbing foods, adding an extra subtle hint of coconut. Everyone thought that the pappardelle looked weird as it was not the usual broad ribbon stripes of pasta you see at other places, Jamie’s Pappardelle were curled up on the side like a caterpillar. Pasta texture was both al dente and too soft, tasted average with a weird combination of braised red wine beef and nutty bread crumbs.
协助我们点餐的侍应推荐了这款意粉，说是用自家制的猪肉肠烹调成肉酱 (Ragu就是肉酱的意思)的肉酱意粉Jamie餐厅的意粉一直是让人称道的，因为是鲜制而不是超市里一包包的干意粉。可是这里的Pappardelle有点不同于我们平时看到的宽面，而是一种类似公仔面的卷面它的“卷”都是粘在一起的，所以口感有软又有硬，很奇怪的意粉。从餐牌上得知肉酱是加入了意大利名酒产区Chianti的红酒烹调的，Chianti红酒一直是Parmesan芝士的梦幻伴侣可是吃的时候芝士的味道不出，肉酱也偏咸了，吃起来更像是红酒炖牛肉，不像是猪肉肠。其中还有一种脆脆的口感，源自加入的炸面包屑吃起来有点甜面包块或饼脆的感觉整体而言，就是一种奇怪的味道，应该会有人欢喜有人愁吧。
Truffle Tagliatelle | Fresh foraged black truffles, butter Parmesan & nutmeg | HKD75/125One of the most recommended dishes at Jamie’s Italian. Like it or not, the pasta cream sauce had a very buttery taste rather than aromatic truffle flavor which Carly the truffle lover was expecting. It was generous for them to offer fresh foraged black truffles but a thicker truffle paste sauce would be even better as the sauce was too watery for it to be considered a high refined pasta dish.
这道是餐厅著名菜式。先不管味道如何，光顶部那几片新鲜的黑松露切片就绝对是非一般餐厅会提供的。可惜太小片，吃起来好像被意粉的热力逼熟了，口感软烂香味很微弱。Tagliatelle和Fettuccine很类似，都是扁宽面，口感很不错，有嚼头而且把奶油芝士汁都吸收了，虽然碟上的汁不多，但奶味还是挺浓。如果奶油汁的量再多一点质感更稠一点，黑松露的味道更浓一点会更好。
Pumpkin Panzerotti | Pasta filled with roasted squash, ricotta & Parmesan in a pumpkin, chilli & rosemary butter with smashed amaretti | HKD80/135Interesting combination of pumpkin, squash, ricotta and smashed amaretti. Pumpkin was chopped into small cubes, slightly sautéed and served on top of the pasta. The filling squash and ricotta was not so heavily cheese flavored but tasted squash‐based. Chilli and rosemary aroma was so subtle that the smashed amaretti – traditional almond‐flavored biscuit created a sweeter aftertaste as you chew on the pasta; this was interesting but not great.
Panzerotti其实就是方形的Ravioli 意大利饺子。里面是南瓜蓉，加上Ricotta芝士和少量瓜
类。南瓜的质量不太好，甜味非常淡，而且和Ricotta芝士的调味不太融合，吃起来很腻。虽
然餐牌说是加了辣和迷迭香牛油，但几乎吃不出来。碟上还撒了碎粒状的意大利饼干
Amaretti (饼干状态的Macaroon 因为两者的制作原料几乎一样) 和椰丝碎。这样增加了口
感，但在味道上，如果和Panzerotti一起吃，其实感觉不出来。这个菜不推荐尝试，味道
如白水般平淡。
Mushroom & Smoked Mozzarella Risotto | Acquerello rice with beautiful wild mushrooms & oozy smoked mozzarella | HKD 85/145Acquerello rice being regarded as one of the best type of risotto rice around the world, the rice is harvested then aged, cultivated using organic farming methods. Acquerello tends to soak up more flavor and stock while staying firm and separate. So the type of the risotto rice is superior but how was it for flavor and texture? Mushroom fragrance was mild as the creamy milk stock snatched the attention, the oozy melted mozzarella tasted pungent. The risotto was overcooked while some bits were undercooked; leaving you a weird feeling of what went wrong with this risotto.
Risotto也是吉碟帮在意大利餐厅必试的菜式，因为够经典传统，很难做得好。这里选用的米是Acquerello陈年米。意大利什么都喜欢陈年：葡萄酒火腿，醋……连米，都是陈年的好。这个东南亚吃米的国度的传统观念是不同的——就算用陈米，也要和新米拌在一起煮，保证口感和口味都没有缺失目前这种意大利陈年米在市面上多数是陈了7年以上，据说这样口感会更有好，米味会更浓缩，这也是被誉为Tuscany区最好的用于烹调risotto的米。可厨师烹调技术未到家，过熟过烂的米粒中混杂著一些生米，衍生出些微脆的口感非常的不好而且极度怪异。至于烟熏Mozzarella的味道过于霸道，就算米饭煮好了，也许酱汁的味道都会盖过而主角之一的蘑菇几乎一点香味都欠奉。
[Mains] 主菜
Free‐Range Chicken | Grilled garlic & rosemary chicken with a tomato, olive, chilli, anchovy & caper sauce | HKD165The server recommended this and we were not disappointed. The robust tone of herbs created a rather intense well‐seasoned flavor both on the chicken skin and meat. Garlic, rosemary, tomato as regular ingredients, the hint of caper sauce was probably the highlight of the seasoning – Capers are a distinctive ingredient in Italian cuisine, unripened flower buds of Capparis spinosa, native to Mediterranean, small, green herb buds which gives a piquant sour and salty flavor to the sauce. The chicken leg served at the table had a pleasant herb aroma, while the flavorsome essence of chicken was profoundly elaborated by powerful mix of herbs and spices – the only thing that we would complain is the relatively dry white meat, nonetheless, we were all delighted that the server recommended this Free‐range chicken as the flavors were well put‐through by marinating it overnight before grilling.
这个是当日获得一致好评的菜肴。虽然鸡胸肉部分干了一点，但胜在腌制的味道非常好，而且腌得很入味可能会有部份朋友觉得偏咸了一点。除了烤蒜和迷迭香等基本香料以外，点睛之处应该在于续随子酱又称刺山柑、马槟榔。一般是腌制来做酱就像腌橄榄一样也可以用作凉茶。我们平常吃的烟三文鱼中的酸味便是来自于续随子据说是前一天晚上就开始腌制的，因此整个烤焗鸡的香草味相当浓烈。
Burger Italiano | Chargrilled beef burger with melted fontina cheese, sweet tomato salsa, schiacciata piccante, pickles, chilli, crispy fried onion & chips| HKD180Woah! Sky‐high stacked burger! The staff reminded us that the burger patty might be slightly dry as Jamie’s Italian does not mix fatty meat in the patty, and a healthier choice of lean meat was presented. The burger construction looked nice but was hard to enjoy the whole delicacy in one bite, we had to break it into pieces. “This is what a burger bun should be!”, Gobay delightfully proclaimed. Carly seconded that, as the bun was extraordinarily chargrilled, slightly buttery with a lightness of fluffiness as it dissolves in your palate. Thin slices of schiacciata picante, mildly hot, spicy oil were dripped onto the meat patty which made this even more fingerlicking good. Chargrilled beef patty was not very juicy but the charcoal overtone was profoundly exhibited which impressed everyone at the table. Crispy fried onions were sweet purple type of onion rings, huge sliced pickles, and pickled tomatoes and veggie on the side, a mouthful of sour, salty, mildly heated complex of flavors made this a decent burger to munch on.
这是一个让人印象深刻的汉堡包。首先从外观上评价：叠得相当高，那根切成两半的巨型酸瓜就已经让人耳目一新。再来是汉堡的面包，翻开清晰可见一条条烤痕印在金黄的面包上，咬一口齿颊留香，烧烤味，肉味，柔韧的口感还带点微甜——单从面包论，这是Gobay觉得在试过的香港西式汉堡面包中最好的。中间夹著的蔬菜非常的新鲜，有番茄莎莎酱、大片的紫色Crisphead lettuce (皱叶生菜) 酥脆的炸洋葱圈，当然，还有巨大的酸瓜!虽然不明白为什么schiacciata piccante会成为一种辣肉肠 (schiacciata常指类似Focaccia的意大利面包) 但它的两块切片很大，油脂融化在汉堡扒上，产生微弱的辣。本来侍应介绍时就特意说明汉堡会比较干身，因为选用的都是精瘦牛肉，所以会做到七成熟。但入口的时候并没有预计中那么干，烧烤味很足很香口，也许是有辣肉肠油脂的补救还有就是Fontina这种芝士，它的味道略甜，而且水果味和果仁味较一般芝士要浓，因此和汉堡里的蔬菜很融合也增加了汉堡的湿润度。
Fish In A Bag |Fish of the day with clams, mussels, fennel, chilli, anchovies & cracked wheat, topped with fiery arrabbiata sauce | HKD170Served hot in a bag, assorted seafood and fish of the day – halibut was another highlight of the meal. Arrabbiata for it means “angry” in Italian as the pasta sauce is cooked into a jolly jolt of tomatoes, garlic, red chili peppers cooked in olive oil – goes well with any kind of meat when you can easily spice up the dish, get it well‐seasoned and garnished. Embellished by the sauce, the seafood was just average as we were not able to taste the freshness or marine flavor. We got sand stuck in our teeth after chewing on the mussel and clams. Nonetheless, it was nicely scrumptious for the sauce itself.
由于Gobay看到隔壁桌一位女士点了一整条的比目鱼——fish of the day 卖相非常好，大家都对这里的鱼有著一点点的期许。总体而言，用锡纸包著鱼肉和海鲜上桌的手法非常的老道，因为海鲜的制作是焖焗，而凉了会有腥味，故用锡纸是最好不过了。海鲜里除了比目鱼，还有蛤蜊青口(淡菜)和醍鱼味道稍稍有点辣，还放了茴香和碎麦作香料。鱼的质感很坚实，火候有点过了，贝壳类很让我们伤心地——都有点沙。不过酱汁值得一提：Arrabbiata酱，是意大利常用的做意粉的干辣椒酱，它在意大利语中表示“愤怒” 通常都是由番茄，红辣椒和蒜头等制成。它刺激了我们的味蕾，使得海鲜似乎也在嘴里变得鲜活起来。
[Sides] 伴菜
Polenta Chips | With rosemary, salt & Parmesan | HKD45Everyone was puzzled why this was one of the recommended dishes at Jamie’s Italian. Undoubtedly, it is not a usual type chips you can find anywhere in Hong Kong. Polenta, cornmeal boiled into porridge, originated from Northern Italy. The deep fried polenta chips were not oily and had a relatively creamy texture due to the gelatinization of starch in the grain. It would have been better if the seasoning of rosemary, salt and cheese was more stunning as the chips tasted bland overall and was not too appealing texture wise on the palate.
即使我们吃了一半都不明白这个为什么会成为推荐菜式。简单来说这个就是很原始味道的玉米面粉芝士方块。口感很粗糙，口味平淡，咬了之后能感觉到面粉在舌头上碎开一粒粒，虽然加了迷迭香和Parmesan芝士，但是基本没能吃出来。国内陕北高原的玉米面窝窝头都要比这个好吃得多。
Posh Chips | With truffle oil & Parmesan | HKD50Think Carly has tried a good number of restaurants to judge whether chips/fries at Jamie’s Italian has done potatoes justice. Nicely shredded Parmesan on top, scent of truffle oil, urged you to dig deep into this side dish without any further due. Dark brown russet potatoes in thick cuts, the rough potato skin was not peeled off so you get a more intense taste of starchy potatoes, not so crispy on the crust as it tasted rather like baked instead of deep fried. Some fries were mushy on the inside, Carly’s favorite part, dripping an extra hint of truffle oil could not go wrong. Not the best in town but definitely decent enough to go with the Burger Italiano that aimed high. Truffle mayo would still be the preferred choice of collaborating potatoes with truffle, nevertheless, Carly is not going complain any further.
对于薯条，吉碟帮也是每间西餐必食，只因Carly是薯仔狂热派。这里采用的是有浓郁薯仔味道的美国棕皮大薯切成粗壮的薯条上仍看得见些许棕色的皮，这正是美味的奥妙。好吃的炸薯条除了要用优质薯仔之外，它的皮也包含很丰富的营养的香味切的时候可以保留。某些薯条内部甚至呈现了糊状粉嫩的口感，让Carly惊喜不已。虽然松露油不是很出彩，但也中规中矩。当然能用松露蛋黄酱自然最好，不过就这样也达到中上水平了。
[Dessert] 甜品
Tutti Frutti Lemon Meringue Pie | With limoncello & crunchy pistachio brittle | HKD85Dessert time! The Lemon Meringue pie exquisitely demonstrates a beautiful collaboration of fruity, tangy, appetizing pastry from Jamie’s Italian. Loved this and by far one of the best lemon pies Carly had in life, though the pie crust could have been crunchier, the flavor and texture of the lemon custard and meringue were unbeatable. Limoncello, an Italian lemon liqueur mainly produced in Southern Italy gives a nice decent natural sweetness that blends so well with the reviving lemony custard that ultra‐smooth without being too sweet. Meringue on top was baked till the edges turned slightly golden brown, air‐whipped, slightly bouncy; it has a heavenly marshmallow type of texture, quite an on‐the‐spot delicate piece of pastry indeed. Top that off with crunchy, caramelized pistachio, very nutty and crunchy, it makes an excellent piece of dessert and made Carly real happy.
这个蛋白柠檬派做得十分出色，尽管饼底的部分有点瑕疵，不够结实松化，但柠檬馅口感实在中带著软和，恰到好处的酸爽度让人精神为之一振，但又不会太酸。仔细看餐牌原来是加了Limoncello。意大利南部除了阳光与海滩，还出产最好的柠檬。当地人除了拿来制作沙冰香皂和果汁以外，还会制作成Limoncello这种甜烈酒。Gobay曾游历南意的柠檬小镇Positano，那里有许多卖特产的店铺堆满了金黄柠檬状的肥皂，还有一瓶瓶如冰酒般细长的Limoncello 不需要喝，光看就觉得清新。它是加了糖汁，喝起来十分爽口和青柠味的Frozen Margarita有得一拼这个派顶部的蛋白糖霜都打得非常好，入口很细滑，烘烤出的点点棕色也非常养眼。推荐必食。
Epic Brownie | Warm fudgy brownie with salted caramel gelato & caramelized amaretti popcorn | HKD75Highly acclaimed for their epic brownie, Carly understood why. Slightly Americanized version of dark chocolate brownie as you can tell, it was made from sweet cocoa based of chocolate chunks, extra white sugar was added. Slightly crunchy on the crust, warm served, heavenly moist with a hint of eggs added to create the fluffiness instead of chewiness for a fudgy brownie. Extra molten dark chocolate cream topped off the brownie which everyone liked very much for its creaminess. Salted caramel gelato, more milk‐based and relatively too much salt was added, nonetheless, Carly has a strong liking for sweet‐savor combos. Caramelized amaretti popcorn was heavily caramel glazed, still maintained the crispiness on the edges of the popcorn. Devilishly good and homey as it reminded Carly of the homebaked overly sugary brownies she used to have back in Canada.
这个也得到大家的一致赞赏，不愧为推介菜式。Carly凭藉著大长今般的舌头，分辨出这个Brownie是用美国式的大块朱古力制作的，原料是甜可可豆加白糖边缘香脆可口，吃著暖暖的，中间非常湿润但口感又保留著适当的嚼劲加上融化的黑朱古力浆，它的丰富口感达到了一个境界。再有咸味的焦糖雪糕，简直是咸甜苦味于一口，也许这就是人生的味道吧。伴碟的焦糖爆谷也非常松脆可口。Carly盛赞此甜品，说Brownie的味道令人回忆起旧时在加国留学的点滴。
Affogato | A simple scoop of vanilla gelato topped with piping hot espresso | HKD60Espresso was a strong, bitter, yet aromatic dark roasted coffee bean essence, pouring that over onto the gelato, the vanilla gelato melted quickly as it was a rather heavily milk & cream base type of gelato instead of icy. Flavor‐wise was not bad as it did meet our expectations of an Affogato.
以意大利餐厅的咖啡为标准，这个算中上水平了，烘焙的香味馥郁，酸度和苦涩度的平衡很好，奶味为主的云呢拿雪糕迅速融化后的甜在酸和苦中再加了一个层次的味道，余韵复杂而悠长。
Vanilla Panna Cotta | Served with seasonal fruit compote | HKD60Spot‐on panna cotta! Fruit compote of the day was peeled oranges and thyme, did not add much character to the dessert, yet the panna cotta was extremely smooth, creamy, angelic mind‐blowing with a burst of vanilla scent dissolving on your palate. Irresistible for its milky texture and fresh use of vanilla bean seeds, it seems simple but not quite so when you try to make one at home, this requires one to master the skills of whipping milk, cream, sugar to its optimal state without overdoing it.
Panna Cotta，意大利奶冻，老实说易学难精，而这里做得就非常地道。明胶的分量放得恰到好处，所以口感Q弹之中带著幼细香滑的口感，而且奶味和云呢拿的味道浓度平衡得很好，连平常不吃panna cotta的Lorling都破戒盛赞了一番! 如果大家对我们之前发布的南小馆评论有印象的话，南小馆也有好吃的奶冻，但它是纯以香滑为主，所以质感会偏稀了，像奶味豆腐花。而Jamie's Italian则是偏实，是升级版的双皮奶。
A large range of variety of Italian components, herbs, wine, ingredients were used for Jamie’s Italian dishes and throughout the menu. You may not be able to delicately taste the difference throughout the meal, not until you go visit other chained restaurants which offers “Italian” food such as Spaghetti House, Pizza Hut or even Pizza Express for a more pricey option. Jamie’s Italian offers a slightly Americanized homey, friendly style way of enjoying Italian cuisine for its interior design shows how they aim at blending in city culture without losing their edge in modifying their food menu, keeping simple authenticity, welcoming and informative service, Carly admired the sophistication of food mixture – original, traditional and homey in Jamie’s way as always. Treat this as another Italian option in a big city like Hong Kong where you get too many choices, be fair, it was HKD220 per person for lunch, happily stuffed, I am not going to ask for more. Homemade pasta might not be spot‐on yet desserts are proudly presented for all the sweet tooth out there, you will not be too disappointed.
这次给我们印象很深的，是这里真的采选最新鲜的食材，用的烹调手法也没什么花俏的地方，都是传统的意大利和美国菜。尽管食品中还是有很多不尽人意的地方，但它的氛围，食物的性价比绝对比意粉屋，必胜客和Pizza Express等一系列并不便宜的连锁意式店要好得多。老实讲，当今香港每人HKD220的午饭能试到这么多款意大利菜，新鲜家制的意粉和水准一流的甜品，实在是十分公道。
张贴
