23
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Level6
2019-05-23 3150 views
話說上回數字Auntie榮休,特選於英國星級名廚Simon Rogan先生第一間海外分店「Roganic」設宴報喜,當時因全場賓客同感晚宴高質美味,主人家就好客氣地即場擇日,訂埋餐店嘅廚師餐桌「Aulis Hong Kong」,十二人啱啱好包場。高級西餐廳嘅廚師餐桌內所有高櫈座椅均圍繞著師傅嘅開放式大舞台,設計簡潔光亮得黎極富時代感。靚靚媽咪真係眼利兼心水清,步入房間第一刻已發現四周嘅廚爐器具清一色為德國名牌「Miele」,更驚嘆個廚房一定價值不非!型男大廚Oli哥哥介紹「Aulis」為「Roganic」嘅實驗廚房,當晚由佢同助手Karl哥哥負責烹調所有食物。據悉,希臘名稱「Aulis」原來係Simon Rogan先生為紀念已故嘅拍檔Aulis Lehtimaki先生而起嘅。每晚只會招待一輪客人,務求可與食客多點互動,搭枱型式亦可令氣氛冇咁拘謹。兩位師傅極歡迎食客即場反映意見,讚賞或彈道都冇問題,因為佢地個廚師實驗室就係要為迎合各方口味作出調整及改良,態度極之誠懇。菜單冇得揀,劃一價格為$1,480/位,另加一服務費,但為咗要提升顧客味蕾之驚喜,菜譜會喺飯後先派發。全晚大概會有二十道菜
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話說上回數字Auntie榮休,特選於英國星級名廚Simon Rogan先生第一間海外分店「Roganic」設宴報喜,當時因全場賓客同感晚宴高質美味,主人家就好客氣地即場擇日,訂埋餐店嘅廚師餐桌「Aulis Hong Kong」,十二人啱啱好包場。

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高級西餐廳嘅廚師餐桌內所有高櫈座椅均圍繞著師傅嘅開放式大舞台,設計簡潔光亮得黎極富時代感。靚靚媽咪真係眼利兼心水清,步入房間第一刻已發現四周嘅廚爐器具清一色為德國名牌「Miele
,更驚嘆個廚房一定價值不非!
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型男大廚Oli哥哥介紹「Aulis」為「Roganic」嘅實驗廚房,當晚由佢同助手Karl哥哥負責烹調所有食物。
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據悉,希臘名稱「Aulis」原來係Simon Rogan先生為紀念已故嘅拍檔Aulis Lehtimaki先生而起嘅
。每晚只會招待一輪客人,務求可與食客多點互動,搭枱型式亦可令氣氛冇咁拘謹。兩位師傅極歡迎食客即場反映意見,讚賞或彈道都冇問題,因為佢地個廚師實驗室就係要為迎合各方口味作出調整及改良,態度極之誠懇

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菜單冇得揀,劃一價格為$1,480/位,另加一服務費,但為咗要提升顧客味蕾之驚喜,菜譜會喺飯後先派發。
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全晚大概會有二十道菜,主要食材來自新界及英國湖區嘅菜園,其餘部份係喺餐廳內種植及自家處理,道明忠於大自然及有機之概念。由於款式多,每道菜自然會較細份,並以較快之步速上;當中有幾款係長年不變嘅陣店美食,亦會有不少仍在改善中之菜式,依幾款會約每星期轉一道。
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飲品方面,貴客可選$680/位嘅配酒套餐。如欲自攜佳釀就要收取開瓶費,$500/樽750毫升嘅葡萄酒,$1,000/樽烈酒或1.5公升葡萄酒
;個人覺得都幾貴吓,所以建議大家揀選酒牌上嘅酒品,會化算得多。
葡萄酒
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侍酒師打點好美酒後,型男廚師亦不怠慢,迅即續一呈上一系列嘅「Finger Food」。可以放心,賓客用手接觸過食物後都會有熱毛巾抹手,衛生絕無問題
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打頭陣先有棗紅色,貌似葡萄嘅「煙燻脆鱔」。小肥一向怕食多骨嘅魚,但礙於師傅強調脆鱔連骨都可以吞埋落肚,細佬就膽粗粗一啖放哂入口
smoked eel, beetroot
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意外地,脆鱔香脆鬆化,真係完全食唔出有幼少嘅魚骨,證明Oli哥哥冇講大話
,最巧妙就係面層舖滿醃過嘅紅菜頭薄片,其酸酸甜甜之調味十分醒胃。
smoked eel, beetroot
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第二道「甜粟米片」以粉紫嘅食用花點綴,擺盤好相襯地帶出花藝嘅味道
sweet corn, chick pea
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金黃嘅粟米片底層塊威化薄片極之鬆脆,脆片面上塗咗層香濃柔滑嘅忌廉芝士,再拌入脆卜卜嘅鷹嘴豆,令脆脆嘅效果更上一層樓
sweet corn, chick pea
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接著嘅「南瓜撻」除咗有爽爽嘅南瓜肉作餡,當中亦混入咗軟潤嘅梨蓉啫喱;其乾巧嘅撻皮用上南瓜精華搓揉而成,配合埋頂面灑有月桂葉粉南瓜籽,質感同調味都相當豐腴討好。
pumpkin, nashi pear, bay leaf
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西餐中途或尾段好多時都會夾入一道雪葩,「Aulis」於頭段混入一小杯清爽微甜而又消滯嘅「發酵梨汁」,家人都覺果汁比雪葩更易入口,同時亦有異曲同工之效。
fermented pear
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Finger Food」環節以兩款香菇松露包點作結。第一件「全麥麵包」以麵豉醬燒香包面,凹凸且不規則嘅黑點令包品更型似隻菇菇,外觀已令人嘆為觀止!暖手嘅麥包十分鬆軟,入面塞滿芬芳嘅松露香菇忌廉芝士,香濃而不膩滯,個人覺得絕對夠哂資格加入「Roganic」個餐單入面

mushroom wholemeal, miso glaze
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同樣暖手嘅「松露布丁」深啡色嘅外表雖貌似蛋糕,但一放入口,即細嚐到酥皮如何演變成麵包布丁般鬆潤且有層次嘅質感,濃而不俗嘅松露香慢慢滲進味蕾,何其精彩美妙!
truffle pudding
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接棒嘅小杯中為「奶黃海膽伴自家魚子醬」,當中魚子醬係名法國魚子醬品牌Petrossian與Simon Rogan先生合製出嘅結晶品
,堅有料到喎!奶黃海膽顏色鮮艷,且如絲般滑溜,以濃郁嘅魚子醬點綴即亮起食材原有之鮮甜,盡顯簡單美。
sea urchin custard, our caviar
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主廚出名愛就地取材,創造新菜,黎到香港第一款就揀用咗「Hong Kong Pea」,製出「Pea Flakes & Pea Mousse」,即「豆豆薄片拼豆豆慕絲」。大家聽到「香港豆」個名時,面上都掛上問號,因為冇人知係指咩豆豆;哈,但一入口,人人都食得出係上海菜經常會食到嘅「甜豆」。「甜豆三重奏」墊底有原粒清脆嘅甜豆,中間夾入咗軟滑嘅甜豆蓉,面層輕輕加上甜豆冰沙薄片點綴,微咸中帶有薄荷香,層次分明得極為清新,確真滋味無窮!
hong kong pea
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大肥爸爸唔講,真係冇留意到之前八道餸全部都係蔬菜海鮮,要到第九味先有肉食
!來自英國嘅「生牛肉」鮮紅潤澤,肉質軟潤,當中混入嘅炭油煙味薄淡又唔搶,伴配清脆橙美嘅醃南瓜薄片及白色圓點嘅鮮蠔混醬,即能增添爽脆同鮮味
raw beef in coal oil, pumpkin, sunflower
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正當大家都猜測緊面前舊白色膠狀物體為何物時,Karl哥哥即解開疑團,告知蛋殼碟上嘅原來係「椰菜花雲吞」,墊底有白色嘅鮮蠔混醬,而右旁橙黃色嘅則為「原鶴海鰻魚子醬」(yellow pike caviar)。菜式左暖右凍,暖暖嘅椰菜花雲吞其實只係一件用咗椰菜花搓出嘅麵粉團,入面係冇餡嘅,其質感煙煙韌韌,調味全夠濕潤鮮濃嘅魚子醬鮮蠔混醬帶出,都幾得意。
oyster, cauliflower, pike perch roe
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整晚嘅食材大多來自歐洲及香港,十九道餸內唯一有和風元素嘅就係依味「日本毛蟹紹菜卷」。顧名思義,底層嘅紹菜卷包有日本毛蟹肉作餡,口感同時清爽及幼嫩,但由於毛蟹本身已夠咸香,所以當再混入埋辣根入去就變得過咸失真
。幸好頂面塊風乾雞皮輕薄如紙張,且如薯片般脆巧,成功為菜式挽回不少分數。
cabbage, crab, horseradish
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大廚熱愛自然及有機食材,試問又點可以少得沙律菜式呢?!碟內鮮綠嘅沙律中有大大塊羽衣甘藍、白菜、椰菜、菜心、西蘭花,據悉大多採自本地菜園,每片都喺櫻桃木上烤煮過,故外表都有燒焦過嘅黑邊。沙律菜每片均輕巧脆薄,配合埋柔滑嘅松露忌廉Westcombe芝士先加添香濃,喺面再淋上辣油蒜油即倍添芳香惹味,細膩得很
grilled salad, Westcombe cheese, truffle
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唔知會唔會係同健康理由有關呢,除咗蔬菜之外,靚仔廚神似乎最愛就係烹調海鮮魚材。熱食之一嘅「黑蒜五味鱈魚」紫綠嘅顏色甚為艷麗,目擊到整個過程方才發現此道餸係汁液舖底後,之後擺上鱈魚件,臨尾先再放幾片「kalibos紫椰菜」加以修飾。白雪雪嘅鱈魚係經過蒸煮後以火槍輕輕燒嘅,魚肉厚身得黎超級幼嫩滑溜,清香鮮美
;以魚骨濃湯餚製出嘅綠色汁液含有嘅「五味」包括青檸、薄荷、甘草、紫菜、橙,簡單可形用為微酸帶甜;最醒神就係點埋最底嗰滴黑蒜精華,甜得猶如畫龍點睛,果真一絕!
5 flavour cod, kalibos, black garlic
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熱食壓軸為陣店之「風乾熟成鴨肉」,亦即全晚第二道及最後嘅含肉菜式。
duck with turnip, spiced red vinegar
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相中未必睇得到,但其實墊底有剛柔並濟而又較濃味嘅鴨腿燉肉伴蕪菁蓉。主角則為色調粉嫩、肉質鬆軟、只有十四日大嘅鴨胸件鴨皮軟滑,加配微酸爽脆嘅蕪菁薄片紅醋汁,可一解鴨腿肉嘅膩感,可稱之為無敵嘅組合呀
duck with turnip, spiced red vinegar
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由咸點轉去甜品前,先有間場嘅芝士環節。一反傳統地,此環並非芝士拼盤,而係「芝士雪糕」。弧形嘅木造杯仔底層為開胃嘅紅莓果醬,中間夾著軟滑嘅Tunworth芝士雪糕,頂面再加巧脆嘅榛子碎,有層次得毫不累贅。
tunworth, cranberry, hazelnut
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為咗食客可襯熱享用美食,所有碟盤都會係熱住上,秘汁亦會於最後一刻喺面前添上;真係冇估到連茶都係一樣
,先有隻熱杯,再由專人續一斟出窩心暖胃嘅普洱茶
普洱茶
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甜品環節由冰凍嘅節令「健力士黑啤雪糕伴燒奶」作序。意外地,黑啤雪糕比想中之中冇咁苦澀,雪糕當中嘅甘味好似係黑啤傳出啖啖嘅咖啡香咁,可能係因伴配上深啡色嘅蜜糖醬所致,確真有點神奇
。中菜食過唔少炸鮮奶,不過燒鮮奶片都係頭一次遇上,其質感脆卜卜得黎仍可保留到牛奶嘅柔順清香,實屬驚喜之作也!
stout, molasses, burnt milk
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stout, molasses, burnt milk
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甜品一出,賓客都忙著向主人家數字auntie舉杯道謝,所以返埋位時剩餘嘅三款甜點已全擺放於餐桌上。
甜品
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應建議先由招牌甜品焦糖蘋果撻」起食。焦糖蘋果撻底層個撻皮酥化香脆,打成圈圈嘅焦糖蘋果亦好軟腍潤甜。
caramelized apple
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的骰地砌到好似個迷你盆栽咁嘅「櫻桃蛋糕仔」非常吸睛
蛋糕仔外脆內鬆軟,喺面唧上醇香幼滑嘅伯爵茶忌廉及甜脆嘅朱古力碎碎,一口一件,甜而不膩,輕巧易入口。
earl grey, chocolate, cherry cake
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earl grey, chocolate, cherry cake
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整頓晚餐中外表最平平無奇嘅一道點都要數作結嘅「冬甩」。肥肥嘅冬甩就好比雲層般蓬鬆,輕到好似食緊空氣咁,絲毫不油膩,當真令人一試難忘
doughnut
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Aulis Hong Kong」乃「Roganic」餐廳之廚師餐桌(Chef’s Table),罕有地給予食客一個跟廚師近距離接觸嘅機會
。簡潔嘅工作坊內全為高科技之潮派廚具爐頭,可看到師傅們搖晃試管、點起火槍等,在場嘅賓客都大感新穎好奇。新進廚神Oli哥哥毫無架子,大方又幽默,入門一刻已叫大家盡情輕鬆地享用快步速嘅晚餐。十九道菜中每道份量睇落細細份,但無論係食材、擺盤或器皿都充滿著神秘,最難得就係採用上不少本地食材,如菜心、甜豆等,創意無限,令食客眼界大開
!以$1,480 + 10%品嚐感觀豐盛嘅美饌佳餚,直擊廚房幕後製作花絮,感覺就好似進入咗廚藝學院嘅實驗室內用膳,可擴闊飲食視野之餘,更可見證新菜嘅製成及改造,個人覺得絕對值回票價

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(The above review is the personal opinion of a user which does not represent OpenRice's point of view.)
Post
DETAILED RATING
Taste
Decor
Service
Hygiene
Value
Date of Visit
2019-05-06
Dining Method
Dine In
Spending Per Head
$2000 (Dinner)
Recommended Dishes
duck with turnip, spiced red vinegar
doughnut
smoked eel, beetroot
smoked eel, beetroot
sweet corn, chick pea
sweet corn, chick pea
pumpkin, nashi pear, bay leaf
fermented pear
truffle pudding
sea urchin custard, our caviar
hong kong pea
raw beef in coal oil, pumpkin, sunflower
oyster, cauliflower, pike perch roe
grilled salad, Westcombe cheese, truffle
duck with turnip, spiced red vinegar
tunworth, cranberry, hazelnut
stout, molasses, burnt milk
stout, molasses, burnt milk
普洱茶
甜品
caramelized apple
earl grey, chocolate, cherry cake
earl grey, chocolate, cherry cake
mushroom wholemeal, miso glaze
5 flavour cod, kalibos, black garlic
  • duck with turnip
  • spiced red vinegar
  • smoked eel
  • beetroot
  • sweet corn
  • chick pea
  • pumpkin
  • nashi pear
  • bay leaf
  • sea urchin custard
  • our caviar
  • raw beef in coal oil