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2023-03-27
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[ Vivant | 中環 ]This might be the most talked about restaurant in Central, especially as a wine bistro. I finally came to try it and I can happily say that the food is amazing. The only stopping me from returning is the price. Despite its name, it was extremely quiet when I came last night on a Tuesday. As a matter of fact, I was the only guest during my whole dining period of 2 hours. The restaurant is very small but they still manage to fit quite a few tables without it being cramped. And unlik
This might be the most talked about restaurant in Central, especially as a wine bistro. I finally came to try it and I can happily say that the food is amazing. The only stopping me from returning is the price.
Despite its name, it was extremely quiet when I came last night on a Tuesday. As a matter of fact, I was the only guest during my whole dining period of 2 hours. The restaurant is very small but they still manage to fit quite a few tables without it being cramped. And unlike my expectations, the place is very well light and not dim at all.
Jeston Chau was formerly in Belon and Batard so most of the dishes are inspired by his time there as well as his own experiences. This restaurant is a great place to come is you want to try neo-Parisian cuisine (Belon’s specialty) at a cheaper price.
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Mussel Pain Perdu with Leeks Vinaigrette (2 pcs) $108
I chose this over the potato Mille fueille smoked eel as Chef Jeston says he likes this better (the potato dish is very one dimensional without a textural contrast) and I’m so glad I did because this dish will stay with me for a long time.
First off, the toast (their homemade sourdough) is fried in chicken fat. This simple technique allows the toast to soak up all that delicious goodness whilst still maintaining a crisp crunch. This means the exterior to be hard and crisp whilst the inside is soft and flavourful. At first glance, it may seem very oily but you can’t taste or feel any of that oil in your mouth. All you feel is the luxurious taste of chicken jus.
Secondly, the mussels on top are very tender and plump, not sandy or tough. The slight brine and chew of the mussel contacts beautifully with the crunchy bread and we all know dill is a magic herb that makes any seafood dish better.
On top we have the leek vinaigrette which is bright (not too acidic that it burns) and cuts through the chicken oil. The shallots (which I have to congratulate on the dice: so fine that it melts but still has a crunch) adds to the pungency of this dish and introduces another layer of umami and textures.
A very well executed appetiser and I could have easily eaten five more. But it pains me to pay $108 for two slices of bread 🥲
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Tortellini with Green Pea & Parmesan Sauce $148
My main tonight is their very well-known pasta dish that has been on the menu since opening (spoiler, they are planning a new pasta dish to replace this one). Each component of this dish is so simple but that just allows them to ensure the quality is at its best.
First, the sauce is two separate ones: one made entirely of fresh peas and the other is a rich and creamy Parmesan sauce. This sweet and salty combo seeminglessly combines to form the best Spring inspired sauce ever. There is a lot of peas but not a lot of sauce so the dish won’t get too goopy and wet. The pea are very sweet and tender without being mushy, loved eating them on their own. The shaved Parmesan on top adds another dimension to the saltiness and I love the crunch it gives.
The handmade pasta is also worth talking about. It surprised me that they actually have their own nutty flavour that is pretty noticeable. The texture is by far the best pasta dough I’ve had: bouncy and chewy but thin and soft.
The pea and ricotta filling is richer than the sauce and more savoury for sure due to the ricotta. Using two types of cheese makes an ultra-umami dish that will certainly make you crave for more.
There are six plump pieces of pasta which I devoured by myself, so might have to order another plate if you are sharing.
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Cornbread Coffee Maple Syrup Butter $78
Admittedly, I came here solely to try this cornbread which some have claimed to be the best cornbread in HK. Disclaimer: I haven’t had cornbread before so I can’t compare this to anything.
This dessert is inspired by the polenta dish at Belon which many seemed to enjoy. Jeston makes it more upscale casual by recreating it as a familiar comfort food.
First impressions: tiny. Don’t be fooled by the photos you see, these cornbread are the size of my thumb and the bowl is no bigger than my palm. I was a bit shocked that they charge me $78 for basically one deconstructed muffin but it was delicious.
The warm smell of corn and butter just wafts into your nostril the moment it arrives, triggering salivation.
The exterior of the cornbread is crisp and once you open them, steam gushes out to reveal the soft and fluffy interior. Thus, the outside is well caramelised with a toffee/butter taste and the inside is that of buttered corn. The taste baking powder is also quite strong but I find that it works with the corn flavour and the coffee maple butter.
Speaking of the coffee maple butter, this delicious creamy accompaniment is honestly unnecessary for the cornbread but highly welcomed to make them even more moist. It also portrays the corn in another spotlight with coffee and maple syrup as it’s supporting characters. Both the coffee and maple flavor is quite strong but not overpowering or shadowing one and other. The flaky salt on top prevents the butter from feeling too oily and sweet. I easily mopped up every last bit of butter whilst getting to enjoy a few pieces of cornbread plain.
Fyi, they make their own cornmeal from dehydrated local sweet corn, which could be why the corn taste is so pronounced.
A really good ending to the meal (which can also be eaten as an appetiser tbh) but I just wished they gave more than eight pieces because they are literally bite sized and gone in minutes.
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推介 🙆♀️
💬 Overall, I enjoyed every single thing I had tonight and would definitely come back for either the exact same foods or try new dishes. I would say the service and ambience could be much better. The price is also on the high end even for Central and I wished they gave bigger portion sizes as I left still hungry and had to get a kebab afterwards.
🗓 Revisit? ✅ ⭕️/ ❎
Mussel pain perdu with leek vinaigrette
$108
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Mussel pain perdu with leek vinaigrette
$108
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Tortellini with pea and parmesan
$148
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Cornbread with coffee maple butter
$78
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Cornbread with coffee maple butter
$78
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