Video
Read full review
2009-06-18
68 views
I had never had cow’s offals (牛雜) when I was small as my mom prohibited us from having most of the street food. As I grew up I got more appreciation to this local "gourmet" but quality does vary significantly from places to places. Since I don’t eat it often, I only get it when I know it’s going to be great, like the one at 十三座. A small bowl of 十三座牛雜 ($30,sm) appeared insignificant in size at first, but was in fact substantial in portion inside. The staff had kindly asked if I had any prefe
I had never had cow’s offals (牛雜) when I was small as my mom prohibited us from having most of the street food. As I grew up I got more appreciation to this local "gourmet" but quality does vary significantly from places to places. Since I don’t eat it often, I only get it when I know it’s going to be great, like the one at 十三座.
A small bowl of 十三座牛雜 ($30,sm) appeared insignificant in size at first, but was in fact substantial in portion inside. The staff had kindly asked if I had any preference, and I requested less spleen 牛膀 and more 牛腸. Just like everybody said, all the pieces had absorbed the aromatic marinade which was not overly salty. Every piece was very tender, yet each type of offal provided a unique texture.
My favorites were the spongy cow lungs (牛肺) and the tender yet elastic honeycomb tripes (金錢肚) both of which soaked up all the fragrant marinade. 牛腸 and 牛肚 still retained a bit of a chew, but the former wasn’t fatty enough to create a luscious fatty mouthfeel. I think I am never going to love 牛膀 with its powdery texture, but the version at 十三座 was at least deep in flavor and not at all bitter.
So what did 十三座牛雜 have to do with 余均益 chili sauce? Well, perhaps I am a spice girl , I never found the hot sauce that they provided to be spicy enough. The hot sauce was more on the sweet side and actually tasted fine, but I personally preferred a spicier version with a bit more tang. I love to pair cow’s offals with 余均益 chili sauce because it really complements the strong livery and savory flavor of the offals. The sourness served as a great foil to the richness of the fat.
Even a small bowl was enough to fill my stomach for a whole afternoon. I should go for just lungs and honeycomb tripes next time!
Post
