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2024-11-05
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This contemporary Chinese restaurant is located on Lyndhurst Terrace in Central and is a new concept by Chef Siu Hin-Chi of Ying Jee Club and Chef Oliver Li, incorporating classic Cantonese cuisines with a modern twist and flair of Western style presentation, plus the integration of different cooking techniques, to create a futuristic Cantonese cuisine.Arriving there on a Saturday evening, we both immediately like its warmth ambience, with the white and shamrock green color walls having some 3D
This contemporary Chinese restaurant is located on Lyndhurst Terrace in Central and is a new concept by Chef Siu Hin-Chi of Ying Jee Club and Chef Oliver Li, incorporating classic Cantonese cuisines with a modern twist and flair of Western style presentation, plus the integration of different cooking techniques, to create a futuristic Cantonese cuisine.
Arriving there on a Saturday evening, we both immediately like its warmth ambience, with the white and shamrock green color walls having some 3D photos depicting the neighborhood, which is a nice touch of bringing a sense of belonging for customers and also tying traditional cuisine and local ingredients in a refined dining experience.
There is one menu with the option of choosing either 8 or 10 courses ($1,088 each). We choose the later one as well as the 4-glass wine pairing ($488). But to start I also have an additional glass of Gosset Cuvee Extra Brut NV ($208) as aperitif. The Champagne has lemon, green apple, and almond on the nose, with nice bread dough and yeast in the background.
The first course is a trio of appetizers 「志」趣三小碟, with the first one being Century Egg Macaron 鴛鴦皮蛋塔. The concept comes from the traditional appetizer, with the chef putting some diced century egg and pickled ginger on a macaron, adding some apple vinegar jelly on top. Highly appetizing, it gives us a good idea how the chef has re-imagined the classic cuisine in a new manner.
The second appetizer is Guifei Clam Soup with Dried Flounder 方魚貴妃蚌. The clear soup is delicate yet having wonderful umami taste, served in a small bowl to make sure it is not too filling. On the side is the third appetizer, Marinated Foie Gras with Dough Fritter 鵝肝油炸鬼. The mini dough fritter has a crunchy texture, with the foie gras as the dipping sauce offering a nice savoury enjoyment.
The first wine pairing is Yangarra Roux Beaute Roussanne 2016 from McLaren Vale in Australia. This 100% Roussanne wine is fermented and aged in ceramic egg, with a higher acidity and good minerality. There is a sweet minty spiciness, with nice fruity melon and floral of honeysuckle. Rich and robust.
The second course is Soft Shell Turtle Jelly with Caviar 高湯甲魚凍. The supreme broth has been made into a jelly format, surrounding a mix of the meat and soft tissue on the skirt of the soft-shell turtle, highlighting the two different textures. With some caviar on top to up-level the premium of the dish and provides a nice savory complement to the turtle meat, each scoop combines the different components wonderfully. It is a bit exotic from its name, however the taste is fantastic.
The second wine pairing features The Starting Point Riesling 2019. The winery is one of the pioneers of China’s wine industry in Ningxia, with this one showing a clean lemon citrusy and white flowers notes, a bit of dried apricot plus plenty of chalky minerality and hints of development in petrol characters. Crisp and refreshing, a very approachable and aromatic Riesling balancing well with deep-fried dishes.
The third course is French Toast with Crab Meat and Chili 鮮蟹肉多士. On the French toast the chef has brushed with some Patchun sweet vinegar, then putting a thick layer of crab meat which has been cooked with XO sauce to give a bit of spiciness. On top are some finely chopped spring onion, as well as some crackers in the shape of tiny crabs. While may not exactly replicating the flavors of typhoon shelter stir-fried crabs, it is a delicious starter.
The fourth course is Chicken Wing stuffed with Sea Whelk 花螺釀鳳翼. The bone inside the chicken wing has been removed where the chef has stuffed with some local sea whelk, which are cooked with a French style, with butter and herbs like rosemary and thyme. The chicken wing is then deep-fried using the traditional method of pouring hot oil repeatedly on the skin, making the skin crispy while the meat still juicy. The sea whelk has a good bite and we both like this dish very much.
The third wine pairing features a Chinese yellow wine 冬趣 2007. This is a special vintage huangjiu which was made in winter, without adding any caramel colouring in the fermentation process and all manually made, releasing to market after ten years of cellaring. The wine has a fragrant aged mandarin peel, honey and cedar notes, and gradually seeping out nutty and sweetness at the aftertaste.
The fifth course is Fried Garoupa with Trio Scallion 三蔥爆斑球. At the bottom is a puree made from scallion and leek, then there is a thick garoupa fillet that has been pan-fried together with spring onion and ginger, finishing with a sabayon made from French Jura wine on top. The fish is well-seasoned, with the deep fragrance from the puree giving freshness to the fish, while the sabayon offers fantastic complement of flavors with the huangjiu paired.
The sixth course is Roasted Lobster in Sweet Spicy Sauce 麻辣煎龍蝦. Beautifully plated, the lobster has been baked with a sweet and spicy sauce, highly appetizing and there are also some cherry tomatoes underneath to provide acidity to balance. With some finely diced green bell pepper and edible flowers to decorate, it is both flavorful and pleasant on the appearance, satisfying on both visual and taste.
The fourth wine pairing is Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso 2022, made from 98% Nerello Mascalese and 2% Nerello Cappuccio, both local varieties in Sicily. This red wine exhibits a rich ripe fresh red fruit and sweet spices, with good acidity, and the palate showing some earthiness, as well as development and savory characters. Good match with the chicken in particular.
The seventh course is Crispy Sea Cucumber with Shrimp Mousse in Lobster Sauce 百花釀海參. The chef has minced the tiger prawn to make a patty and stuff into a thorny sea cucumber, which offers a firmer texture on the bite, before dep-frying with a batter made with squid ink. The crunchy surface, bouncy sea cucumber and shrimp mousse is simply fantastic. There is also lobster sauce underneath to offer rich flavors to complement. One of my favorites among the dish on the night.
The eighth course is Crispy Silky Fowl with Moutai Sauce 茅台竹絲雞. The silky fowl is prepared using the traditional method similar to crispy chicken, but has also added some Chinese sausages in. The chef has carved out the breast and thigh separately to serve in a Western presentation. The sauce is made with the chicken jus and Moutai, while there is also a Chinese Angelica jelly on the side, with strong flavors and the medicinal taste is surprisingly matching with the fowl.
An additional course that is not on the menu is the anchor for Chinese cuisine, rice. But instead of fried rice, the chef has used the pasta orzo, adding plenty of spring onion, small fish, small shrimps and egg to prepare, with a softer texture than rice but having more those slightly burnt pieces at the bottom. With the concept coming from salted fish and chicken fried rice, this one delivers high marks on its great taste, with the interesting texture memorable. A must try.
Coming to the dessert, the ninth course is Lychee Pudding with Osmanthus 荔枝桂花糕. Made to resemble a large hakou, with the filling made using lychee puree and agar powder. The dressing is an osmanthus sauce, with a delicate and not too sweet taste, serving as a fun and delicious pre-dessert to cleanse and refresh the palate before going for the main dessert in the final course.
The last course is Birds Nest with Fresh Almond 鮮杏仁燕窩. The traditional dessert has been reincarnated in a contemporary, Western style, with the bird’s nest placed at the bottom of the plate, with an almond jelly and tofu ice-cream on top. The sauce is made from soymilk and rich in flavors, with some crisps to give a bit of contrast in texture. A very successful modern edition of the traditional dessert.
The Petit Four include a Gaizai Cracker that has been made to look like a small chick, with a custard lotus paste filling that is appropriate in sweetness. A happy ending to a wonderful meal, where the food is delicious and creative, bringing in pleasant surprises in many ways. Service is also good, with the staff attentive and friendly. The bill on the night is $3,384. A great concept that has executed well, this is a great example of reinterpreting traditional Cantonese cuisine.
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