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2016-03-28
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How do your noodles speak to you? Some noodle soups bark at the the diner in a fierce manner with plenty of brawn and bite; think: laksa, khao soi, bun bo hue. Others whisper in dulcet tones; think: sulleongtang, pho ga, wonton mi. If you're at Tam Jai Samgor, you're here for the Yunnan specialty, 過橋米線 (Bridge Crossing Noodles), which you can either keep tame or transform into something fierce depending on your choices. Everything from the type of broth, toppings, and spice level can be customiz
At its core, the dish is a mellow thing - milky white chicken broth and benign mixian (rice noodles), not too dissimilar from the Vietnamese dish of pho ga. For a few honkies extra, you can take the broth all different places, adding vinegar, sichuan pepper corns (the numbing kind) or white pepper. Should you choose the upgraded broth, you're given an option of 10 spice levels which start at a whisper (10) and finish with a full on temper tantrum (1).
What I love about Tamjai Samgor is that while you can opt to add a ton of flavor, you can keep it relatively healthy. Additional toppings ($6) include plenty of meat options, but also include chives, several variety of mushrooms, lettuce, tofu, and bean sprouts. For about $50, one can curate a relatively healthy and more than filling bowl of food. And despite the addition of a bit of chili oil, the broth eats cleanly, and not overly slick or fatty (unless one chooses it to be).
Such a bargain comes at a cost, for eating here is not the most comfortable of experiences. Service is abrupt. Tables are cramped. If you're careless enough to leave a foot or elbow in the aisle, expect to get it gruffly bumped into. Lingering is not encouraged. You pay at the front and get out before the queue of hungry diners revolt.
While most of the waitstaff don't speak English, there is an English menu available which you fill out by ticking the desired options. So how do Tamjai Samgor's noodles speak to me? With plenty of comportment and disdain. And I love them for it.
bridge crossing noodles
$50
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