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2022-06-21
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Came here for lunch when it first opened; unimpressed back then as most dishes were too salty. Finally decided to give it a second chance. 3 set menus (HK$380/HK$780/HK$1080) to choose from; picked the middle one with 5 appetizers, 2 mains and 2 desserts.Very tempted to try the wine pairing ($580 for 5 glasses), but decided against it as had to remain ultra sharp for after-lunch meeting.Here’s what we had. (Left) A4 wagyu beef tartar with chopped roasted onion, topped with caviar on a seaweed cr
3 set menus (HK$380/HK$780/HK$1080) to choose from; picked the middle one with 5 appetizers, 2 mains and 2 desserts.
Very tempted to try the wine pairing ($580 for 5 glasses), but decided against it as had to remain ultra sharp for after-lunch meeting.
Here’s what we had.
(Left) A4 wagyu beef tartar with chopped roasted onion, topped with caviar on a seaweed crust base. Rich variety of flavors, loved the punchy sweetness of the onions.
(Right) Cracker made of rice from Yi O, Lantau (one of the largest rice production areas in Hong Kong) topped with karasumi (烏魚子), preserved lemon and seaweed. Very good balance of flavors.
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Pineapple tomato mixed with cucumber, mussels, white kombu and tomato jam. Server spooned tomato water (ie distilled tomato essence) on the side. The pineapple tomato tasted meaty, mildly sweet and fruity.
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Soda bread (ie yeast-free bread) with english butter. Texture of bread resembled that of a muffin, mild-tasting and went perfectly with the butter- which tasted like whipped cream.
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Chawanmushi (茶碗蒸し, literally meaning "steamed in a tea bowl", a Japanese egg custard dish) with beef tendons, peas and kohlrabi (大頭菜, aka German turnip, a round ball of leaves like a cabbage). Again, pleasantly interesting mixture of texture and taste.
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First Main- poached local sea bass with white asparagus from Taiwan and wild garlic purée. Server poured in the sauce, which had a hint of garlic oil. Asparagus tasted quite sour.
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Second Main - chicken breast poached with milk with miso-glazed maitake mushrooms and white mushroom purée. Server spooned generous servings of mushroom sauce. Chicken used was the local three yellow chicken (with yellow beaks, skin and feet). Skin was not crispy at all, but the layer of fat underneath helped to keep the meat moist and flavorful.
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First dessert- matcha, shiso and wild strawberry ice cream sandwich. Had to do it in a single bite; otherwise the ice cream would squeeze out.
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Second dessert- whipped hazelnut praline with cocoa nib, chicory root (菊苣, commonly used as a coffee alternative, with similar taste and color) and molasses. Again a wealth of flavors and texture; slightly taken aback by the spicy peppery flavor towards the end. I did mention to server that I couldn’t take spicy- who did assure me assuredly that there was nothing to worry about. Obviously he hadn’t tried the dessert.
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Coffee not included.
In summary: beyond expectations. Well deserved Michelin 🌟, with the locally sourced ingredients, creative balance of textures and flavors. Recommended.
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