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2013-03-17
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Chef Ken was sous chef at Gaddis under David Goodridge. David has since leftI :for Cyprus and Ken has set up shop in this offbeat location. May be saving on rent is a consideration. The flip side is one cannot charge nearly that much, and so costly ingredients sometimes cannot be used. But Ken is good. Welll, competent may be a better choice of words. Dishes I had:Spaghetti with black truffles - a huge wheel of parmesan cheese appeared, with a hole carved out in the middle. Ken torched this to
But Ken is good. Welll, competent may be a better choice of words.
Dishes I had:
Spaghetti with black truffles - a huge wheel of parmesan cheese appeared, with a hole carved out in the middle. Ken torched this to melt the inside and then spins the spaghetti to scop up tthe cheese. He then finished the dish in a pan by adding truffles, truffle oil and rum. Very filling and so best split between two as an appetizer. Excellent regardless if the black stuff is truffle or black mushroom.
Red prawns and pasta - although easily the most expensive dish here, the price for Mediterranean red prawns is actually very reasonable. There is simply no Asian counterpart I know of with this amount of shellfish taste.
Pork knuckle with risotto milanese. Well, this is very close to Osso Buco except it is pork, not veal. May be this is the way to offer a similar taste without the high prices. The first time I was there I was very impressed by the ingenuity. The risotto was firm and yellow from the saffron. The pork has thatveal like feel and a browned braised skin that is not in the original veal dish. The second time I had this dish it wasn't so great. The risotto was not yellow and did not taste of saffron. Of course, the pork knuckle would not have the veal bone marrow inside which is a signature of ossobBuco.
Slow cooked pigeon was very good. Slow cooked chicken wasn't really up to par for reason only that the best ingredient, a poulet de Bresse, couldn't be used as otherwise it will blow out the menu price.
Truffle pizza was very good but somewhat redundant after the truffle pasta.
Overall, tasting this level of cooking skill at these prices is great value, if you don't come with huge expectations. The limitation is the price and therefore compromise on ingredients must be made, and it shows.
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