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2014-12-31 7403 views
Earlier this month, TOWN quietly replaces the old Alba restaurant in the Cubus Building. To be perfectly honest, my friend WT and I had no idea what we're walking into when we stepped out of the elevator into TOWN.When I come to think of it again, I do know a little something about TOWN - their head chef.Chef Bryan Nagao was a pioneer in fusion cuisine back in the 1990's when he was at the helm of Felix, Peninsula Hong Kong's fine dining restaurant. After leaving Felix, he launched the highly ac
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Earlier this month, TOWN quietly replaces the old Alba restaurant in the Cubus Building. To be perfectly honest, my friend WT and I had no idea what we're walking into when we stepped out of the elevator into TOWN.
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When I come to think of it again, I do know a little something about TOWN - their head chef.
Chef Bryan Nagao was a pioneer in fusion cuisine back in the 1990's when he was at the helm of Felix, Peninsula Hong Kong's fine dining restaurant. After leaving Felix, he launched the highly acclaimed Kokage in Wanchai before going on a hiatus in San Francisco. Guess what, he's back!

In case you're wondering, he did have a hand in the Old Alba restaurant before finally taking the charge here at TOWN.
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After glancing at their menu, I had a little trouble identifying the type of cuisine TOWN is offering. The ingredients seem to come from all over the world including France, Italy, Japan, Hawaii and Hong Kong. And what make matters even more interesting is the fact that Chef Nagao is serving Sicilian red prawn carpaccio with black truffle caviar, sucking pig with miso and a special Hawaiian sauce.....now you get the idea.

But I am not losing any sleep figuring what kind of cuisine we will be having. Instead, we're treating ourselves to a nice mocktail to get our mojo going. I had this very enjoyable Mango Delight to kickstart my palates.
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Now, the signature dish we've been waiting for, Sicilian red prawn carpaccio with black truffle caviar, yuzu and croutons. The prawns were very sweet and flavorful. Only if the supporting cast could contribute a little more, it would have received a perfect score (4/5).
Sicilian red prawn carpaccio with black truffle caviar, yuzu and croutons
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Angel hair and sea urchin are truly a match made in heaven so I was expecting a lot out of this spagettini with sea urchin, pata negra and lardo.

This turned out to be another excellent dish. The spagettini had a very creamy texture from the sea urchin and the pata negra helped to create an incredibly exciting bite (4/5).
Spagettini with sea urchin, pata negra and lardo
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Bryan's suckling pig was next. This was marinated with a special Hawaiian sauce overnight and served with clams, pancetta, baby spinach and a miso broth.

The first bite had me thinking Dongpo pork (東坡肉) but the flavors were far more complex.
Well, the meat itself was really tender and moist; however, it tasted a little bland even with the special Hawaiian sauce and miso broth (3.5/5).
Bryan's suckling pig with clams, pancetta, baby spinach and miso broth
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Surprisingly I found this Guinea fowl "Roulade" pistachio with lardo, salami, buckwheat, fennel and quince more successful than the previous dish, which was supposed to be a signature here.

Different parts of the Guinea fowl (leg and breast) were used to wrap around layers of seaweed, pistachio, mushroom and minced chicken creating a lovely mix of contrasting flavors and textures (4/5).
Guinea fowl ''Roulade'' pistachio with lardo, salami, buckwheat, fennel and quince
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My friend was a big fan of soufflés so this yuzu soufflé with vanilla ice-cream was really a no-brainer for us.

The texture of this flourless soufflé was very fluffy and light which was excellent but if they could make the yuzu flavor a little more mild, it would be far more appealing (3/5).
Yuzu soufflé with vanilla ice-cream
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The return of Chef Nagao provides us with another intriguing choice when it comes fusion dining. I will definitely come back some time soon.

(The above review is the personal opinion of a user which does not represent OpenRice's point of view.)
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DETAILED RATING
Taste
Decor
Service
Hygiene
Value
Date of Visit
2014-12-09
Dining Method
Dine In
Spending Per Head
$650 (Dinner)
Recommended Dishes
Sicilian red prawn carpaccio with black truffle caviar, yuzu and croutons
Spagettini with sea urchin, pata negra and lardo
Guinea fowl ''Roulade'' pistachio with lardo, salami, buckwheat, fennel and quince