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2014-03-20
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After having a pretty high end meal at Ginza Iwa 5 days prior, I knew it was hopeless to even try to top that sushi experience in Hong Kong and not spend as much coin.I remember reading very briefly about Hikari, and happened to be in Causeway Bay at random, looking for a dinner plan. Mori was out of the question, because nobody seems to know where he is now (which was unfortunate). Thus it was a chance encounter that I stumbled upon Hikari, and was extremely lucky to have the last seat at the c
After having a pretty high end meal at Ginza Iwa 5 days prior, I knew it was hopeless to even try to top that sushi experience in Hong Kong and not spend as much coin.I remember reading very briefly about Hikari, and happened to be in Causeway Bay at random, looking for a dinner plan. Mori was out of the question, because nobody seems to know where he is now (which was unfortunate). Thus it was a chance encounter that I stumbled upon Hikari, and was extremely lucky to have the last seat at the counter, right in the middle, sandwiched between a local trio, and to my right were two Japanese expat executives.
One look at the counter and the operation, and I immediately knew what I was in for, and it was right up my alley. Hikari may have the subtitle of "Japanese cuisine" but the action happening at the counter is entirely kappo style or kappo ryori. The concept is pretty simple....high quality seasonal ingredients and doing all sorts of available preps to bring out the best experience possible.
I had no idea what I wanted to order at first, and the regular menu seemed all over the place. HK$500 ish for an entire Hokkaido hairy crab (kegani) but that would have killed whatever choices I had left.
So the $880 seasonal tasting course meal caught my eye. The items seemed very appealing, allowing me to taste a variety of dishes and catch the kitchen's strengths. And being at the counter, there was nothing to hide and thus the joy of not only seeing the chefs work, but the ability to engage them in conversation.
Despite being seated in the middle, I was served by head chef/owner Numata-san. Since his English is pretty fluent, there were no gaps in communication. We got to understand each other very quickly, and the rapport built during this meal really added to the experience, vs if I were to just sit down and just eat, face down, and not participate.
The first course consisted of a mini quartet of offerings....a salad that I believe was mizuna with yuzu gelee, along with ankimo ponzu, karasumi daikon, and gingko nut with salt. There was a slight kaiseki-esque approach to the presentation, but the meal was nothing like a proper kaiseki....although for kappo style this was very pleasing. I had no problems with each mini dish, as they were unique and interesting in their own ways. The karasumi daikon was especially excellent, and Japanese karasumi has a less savory and smokey presence than its Taiwanese counterpart, although not missing anything in the umami department.
Next up, fried shirako with sauce. I'm used to having fresh shirako in ponzu, so having the fried one was new to me. A very refreshing approach to a classic. A very light batter and coating. This was really good.
Sashimi: who can resist? The fish was surprisingly very high quality. Fantastic quality kinmedai (alfosino) that I regret to say was better than the piece I had at Ginza Iwa. Shima aji was pristine with the right texture and bite, and hirame (flounder) with uni inside and rolled up (wow)....and the toro was ridiculous. Farmed stuff from Japan, but the "falling frost" (shimofuri) pattern was sooooo damn sexy. I try not to get too excited about toro, but this was just pure decadence.
Next up: a mini nabe (hot pot) that was not just a feast for the senses, but breathtakingly refreshing and warming in the cold weather. Cod slices with the skin on (and quite fatty cuts at that), seasonal Japanese vegetable (wanted to say it was some sort of Chrysanthemum leaf type Japanese veggie, as I recall the partial name of "kiku" but not sure..), maitake mushroom, and a splendid dashi base. With a burner at the bottom keeping the hotpot piping hot, this one took a while to finish and enjoy. A great strategic move by the chef, as he is able to focus on the food of other customers while I am trying my best to move forward from this course.
Fugu nigiri - ahh yes the coveted blowfish. Numata san made jokes about my pending doom, so I pretended to do a hail Mary, but he was a little embarassed when I immediately asked if this was wild...and sure enough it was the farmed specimen, to which I said "Cheh....no thrill!". So yes there are no toxins in this variety, but is indeed farmed torafugu. First time ever having this, and without the ponzu or the slivers of skin, this would indeed be very subtle. But I am a shiromi fan, and found the slight crunch to the bite rather interesting.
A4 Miyazaki grilled beef cubes with mushrooms and broccoli - Looks are deceiving. The menu doesn't say it is A4 but I confirmed it with Numata-san. I only recall the Japanese executives moaning with pleasure when they had this. I must say that I've had A5 in the USA and at Ta-Ke, and this very A4 dish was even better than all the A5s I've had in the USA.... way more intense and fist clenching than the toro I had earlier in the sashimi platter. Good stuff!
Up next, the rice/gohan course. An interesting trio of a small bowl of rice with a delicately grilled Hokkaido scallop, alongside a bowl of aka dashi (mushroom in red miso soup), and a piece of simmered burdock (gobo). A heartwarming filler, signaling the end of the meal.
While I was enjoying the rice coarse, the sous chef was preparing 15 portions for a private party in the back, of broiled bluefin tuna collar....the bloody thing was humongous. I was drooling and the carmelized flesh and skin smell permeated the air. You had to be there...
The dessert was a pair of almond tofu with fruit, and a very interesting chocolate cake (made in house by the sous chef). I was expecting a more tradtional Japanese style approach, but these modernistic takes were surprisingly decent.
Not a cheap meal by any means, but at least it was significantly less than what I had spent at Ginza Iwa. Oh well when you are on vacation you only live once.
The experience was very enjoyable, and I was really curious what the restaurant could do more of. The seasonal course from the special menu was just a sampler and gave me a good idea of what to expect. So without blinking an eye, I dropped by the next evening (12/31) with a call during lunch hour to reserve, and got omakase.....as for that visit, it will be another review.
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