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2018-04-25
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The talented Uwe Opocensky has made a good reputation on delivering fascinating foods with great surprises. Now that he's going solo I believe he's able to deliver his artwork more freely. A relatively small restaurant that could sit around 20 people, we were introduced to the table where the table was covered by "grass". That was hugely inconvenient at first, I thought. I only understood what's going on after the first dish was here. The first dish was called "Farmer Hands", consisting of 4-5 d
The first dish was called "Farmer Hands", consisting of 4-5 different amouse bouche or appetizers presented on the table covered by grass. Chef explains that all of these are local vegetables and local produce. He wants to promote the usage of these local goods.
This was quite impressing. Not only does it look good it also taste very nice. Although I must say that locally produced goods in reality cannot compete with those that are from Europe or Japan, I think pollution is one thing and the other thing is the fact that most people here still do not care enough about organic food to pay a big premium on it. Same applies to me when I do grocery shopping.
The tartare was quite nice with foie gras puree on it. Next thing that was presented was chef's homemade sour dough and a very special "butter" presented in the form of a candle. I thought that was an awesome idea, really interesting texture and presentation. The "butter" is created by bone marrow and caramelized onion. Brilliant thought.
And it goes pretty well with sea salt.
Second course was an asparagus with cavier and squid ink sauce dressed up with a wasabi flower.
Third course was some garden peas with king crab meat. I thought this was the least impressive dish.
Fourth course was an addition to the original menu, a langoustine tail with soya sauce. Quite good.
Fifth course was a monkfish but unfortunately I'm not a big fish fan so I didn't enjoy it that much.
And then the sixth course was a lamb from new zealand. The caramelized onion puree/sauce was delicious.
Finally the dessert where we go back to farming and gardening. 3 different types of desserts were offered and I liked the cheesecake the most (although it's really not presented in the form of a cheesecake).
I thought that was an impressive meal. Many years ago I've had the chance to eat at the krug room where the chef was toying around with the idea of "Junk Food" thus everything is presented in Cans, bento boxes etc. Back then I already thought the chef was a genius who can come up with these amazing ideas. I guess the main difference between Krug Room and Uwe is that Uwe offers a much more friendly and casual environment so that you can actually have some nice conversation with the chef and he will tell you the inspirations for his ideas thus there's more of a personal touch. I think that will be difficult to achieve in Krug Room.
I'll definitely come back again despite the long booking. Although the food is good but I think eating here is a bit more than just good food, it's about new fine dinning ideas and inspirations. It's about having fun while you're eating. Nevertheless my only thought for improvement is that the middle courses didn't seem to have much association with farming or gardening, I thought if the story was more complete it would be even better.
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