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2022-08-05 415 views
The lunch spoke of the passion of the chef (or chefs?) in a nicely decorated new restaurant.   Ingredients were of high quality; the food carefully prepared; and dishes beautifully presented.   The chef was not parsimonious in showcasing the tastes of different ingredients and the skills. This working was however contrived and at times an overkill.   First and foremost, to refresh my palate, a chilled green drink.  Green on Green was fresh but, because of the jasmine green tea, partook of some h
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The lunch spoke of the passion of the chef (or chefs?) in a nicely decorated new restaurant.   Ingredients were of high quality; the food carefully prepared; and dishes beautifully presented.   The chef was not parsimonious in showcasing the tastes of different ingredients and the skills. This working was however contrived and at times an overkill.   

First and foremost, to refresh my palate, a chilled green drink.  Green on Green was fresh but, because of the jasmine green tea, partook of some hint of grass-taste, which could be off-putting if you don’t like a smack of the grassy countryside in your drink.  I always like it pretty much I like a Sauvignon Blanc.
Green on Green
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The crackers or crispbread or crisps — whatever they are called — served alongside a red curry and tomato paste were just singularly delicious.  Deeply savoury the curry paste was, it came with a slight sweetness from the tomato resembling the sunshine on a summer day.   The level of seasoning and the flavours in both the crisps and the tomato paste were spot on. I would be happy for the rest of the meal just to have that simple profile of agreeable and less overpowering savour.
Crackers and Tomato and Red Curry Spread
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The Borscht was the real McCoy - the beetroot soup, not the beef and tomato one you are likely to have when you order borscht in HK restaurants.  The fresh, lightly sugary beetroot could be clearly felt and what’s more was that the base note was so transparent and crystal clear that in every spoonful of the soup, not only the texture, the taste of the different vegetables was also sensed on the palate.  The borscht was pleasantly suitable for a hot, insouciant summer day, but the subtle change in taste and texture throughout your enjoyment made the soup delectable for all seasons.
Porkcentric Borscht
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The pork belly on the soup was great and the taste massively enhanced by the dill on top.  But the fatty porky taste was too weighty and it muddied the clarity of the soup.  I appreciate that the chef would love to put his signature on what could have been an ordinary soup dish you can find in perhaps every restaurant in eastern Europe.  When the soup was prepared so beautifully like this one, I was perfectly happy enjoying it on its own. Instead of putting the pork belly cubes on the soup, they might easily be made a great snack, a side dish or even an amuse-bouche.  Without the pork belly the borscht was easily a 5-star soup. 

Mushroom Salad was unexpectedly thick and creamy, thanks to the cauliflower puree. The subtle tartness of the pickled mushroom gave the veggie dish a scintillating touch, whereas the taste still leant against the heavy side.  Admittedly the salad tasted not bad, though a bit intense in flavour so that any complexity was overwhelmed.
Mushroom Salad
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Pork Sausage  and Beef Burgers.  These were fantastic burgers. Great buns, beautiful patties, delicious salad, and nicely seasoned fries.  Each of the two was finely presented on a wood-framed rectangular plate.  However, …… 

If you see what’s on the burgers — those condiments and add-ons — smoked Navarra cheese, sauerkraut, jalapeño, mustard, truffle, gherkins, gravy mayo — to name just a few,  probably you’d appreciate what I meant by ‘contrived … an overkill’.  Every one of these was delicious, and every one was strong enough just on its own.  When they’re all put together, you can imagine, the effect was a flavour explosion in the month.  I didn’t know which one to appreciate when all yearned for my attention at the same time.
Pork Sausage Burger
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Beef Burger
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Desserts were tasty. The portion was big but rightly so.  I was more than glad to have a substantial portion of the ice-cream as well as the apple cake. 

The Chocolate and Hazelnut Gelato for sure was a great finale accompanied by the bright sharpness of raspberry. The vanilla whip cream added some weight on it but I didn’t really mind in this case.  
Chocolate and Hazelnut Gelato / Coffee
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Apple Cake was warm and hearty with a balance of acidity from the apple complemented by salted caramel.  Vanilla ice-cream, instead of crème fraîche, would make a perfect partner for the cake perhaps, giving a big contrast in temperature.
Apple Cake
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I differentiate the quality of food and skills put on the dishes from my liking. If judged by the former, the lunch is a smiley face but if my liking is added, I have to give the meal an OK. 

As an aside, I was told that in Polish language, the word ‘love’ rarely get said.  If I love you too, I’d say, ‘I you too’ (ja ciebie też).  So I had the wishful expectation that Polish gastronomy is as tacit and subtle in its expression of flavours as its language in expression of affection. The forwardness of the food gave me quite some surprise. And I am ready to accept that now.  I’m sure Porkcentric would be loved by those who like their strong flavours.  Or perhaps the food would go well with the crafted beers they have to offer. 
(The above review is the personal opinion of a user which does not represent OpenRice's point of view.)
Post
DETAILED RATING
Taste
Decor
Service
Hygiene
Value
Date of Visit
2022-07-19
Dining Method
Dine In
Spending Per Head
$350 (Lunch)
Recommended Dishes
Green on Green
Crackers and Tomato and Red Curry Spread
Porkcentric Borscht
Chocolate and Hazelnut Gelato / Coffee