聯記川王涼粉 (已搬遷) 新店位置

Luen Kee Chuan Wong Noodle

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川菜 (四川) 粉面/米线小食店私房菜

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川北涼粉

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SMASHING PUMPKINS

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在大多人的眼中,紅磡黃埔街時新漢堡包隔離的"聯記川王",可能是一間很有性格的小店.點解?每個月尾都會自行放一星期假.心想這店是否"唔憂做"?

事實上,店方月尾的一周假期,是回到四川去入貨,等大家可品嘗到正宗的川味,在現今功利主義,節奏急促的社會,好像有這種堅持的小店,差不多近乎絕跡.而早前川王曾經關舖兩個月,令到眾麻辣狂迷牽腸掛肚,大約在想:{是否索性結束營業?}

久休兩個月多後重開不久.便急不及待找個中午前來,一個人的下午只能夠吃兩味,未有涼粉之下,便來個麻辣豬耳涼麵,同酸辣血旺.前者用的麵條很煙艱,而且吸汁力強,中度麻辣的辣汁全盡吸收,食落麻香濃厚又刺激,豬耳亦同樣地爽口.另一味酸辣血旺即是豬紅.與其是酸辣,不如說是麻辣,因為我吃得到的是麻,不是酸,更好.小弟是愛麻辣,多過酸辣的.

幾天之後,便相約幾位"窮鬼"成員來晚飯.周五的晚上,門外堆滿外賣的食客,僅有的幾個位,一早被人佔據,問問老細可否開多張檯,老細說:{如果開到的話,就一早開左啦.食環處見到,唔會同你講玩的.}為了既平又正宗的川,唯有繼續等下去.幸好是日中午已致電來留下一些菜式,圓檯的食客走後,我們便安排入座.人太多,有些朋友,要"立食".

每人先來一碗酸辣粉,粉條有咬口,小弟要的是中辣,依然接受得到,但吃下去感覺到是偏向麻多過酸.紅油青瓜極為爽甜,一咬之下,隨即感受到青瓜的甜,口水雞又是必吃之選,那時候用的是鮮雞,除了濃香的麻辣味外,亦有很鮮的雞味.老實說,不比佐敦的雲貴川差得遠.早前有人說過下午去已沒有蒜泥白肉,為保險之計,在訂菜之時順手預留一份.吃罷就會知道,為何會下午已賣清光?

雖然賣相麻麻,白肉面頭的蒜泥惹味十足,融入在麻辣的香,加上每塊白肉都是靚貨,食落鬆化可口.許何的話,來多一碟也不拘.另一道要留的,是水煮魚,是夜的魚,是福壽魚.肉質纖細嫩滑,同個辣湯底頗配襯,但個人而言,反而肉味沒有個性的桂花魚,更與麻辣匹配.麻辣牛舌又是很刺激,麻辣味直上大腦,而牛舌做得稔熟入味.沒有川北涼粉的一夜,就用雞絲涼麵代替,這種麵條與麻辣汁很夾.

小店人手有限,外面的食客絡繹不絕,所以我們這一頓晚餐,足足吃了兩小時.友人更打趣說:{打包去理工吃仲好.起碼唔使等位.}

另一天下午,再聯同兩位朋友來,這一次好得多,平日的下午四,五時,除理工學生之外,根本沒有人同你爭吃.今次就再回味一下上次吃過的口水雞.蒜泥白肉.再加川椒皮蛋,這一天下午,終於有川北涼粉.

麻辣川椒皮蛋很出色,因為用的皮蛋是靚貨色,隻隻有溏心.溏心加麻辣,又是吃個不停,川北涼粉是四川特產.特性是口感滑溜,但易斷.近乎蒟蒻的口感,卻沒有其彈牙感.耍些花椒粉,伴以紅油吃.如此簡單,外貌平平,食落麻辣香兼備,感覺很爽的說.

如此認真的川味小店,價廉物美,難怪身邊很多朋友,百吃不厭,食完一次又一次.

(以上食记乃用户个人意见 , 并不代表OpenRice之观点。)

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FoodieWil

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There was an ounce of hesitation in me when I realize that I'm going to be in Hung Hom for dinner, and secretly gasped in horror that the group would make 4 stops (for dinner) before calling it a night. Arriving at this extremely agreeable joint right next to the legendary 時新, I honestly say that I have rarely see this side of Hung Hom, as I assumed the entire area was full of student housing and funeral homes. Disregarding the dreary spirits of one kind or another that seem to be lingering around, eating with a crowd here is certainly a great way to start the club. There are no benches or whatever, in fact only wooden bench against the counter and one round table with plastic chair. Seeing that, together with the sweet yet numbing smell of toasted Szechuan peppercorns and cumin seeds assured me that this, is going to be a fine meal.

The space is simultaneously private and public, in a sense that nobody will bother you when you eat (private) while you sit on the streetside (public). We promptly ordered Hot and Sour Noodles (酸辣粉). The noodles were in a faintly spicy broth with chockful of pickled mustard greens and floating bubbles of chili oil. The noodles, having made from yams, went perfectly with the broth, and remained a delightful bite to the texture. A communal order of "Cold noodles with shredded chicken" was a fine and filling choice for quick bites. The chicken are cooked just enough to retain moist texture and flavour as well, combining with Chinese celery for crunch form a rather interesting dish.

Sliced Pork in Spicy Garlic Sauce (蒜泥白肉) is definitely the star of the show. Poached pork shavings were neatly piled (in layers) on a porcelain plate covered up with garlicky sauce and chili oil. There was so much garlic in it to keep vampires off limits. Garlic aside, the pork is the best I've eaten served this way. The sauce has plenty of chilies but that did not go overboard into numbing heat (that came later into the meal). Fish cooked in Spicy Broth (水煮魚) consisted of chunks of carp served bone-in. The broth is thinner than usually served, and tasted not as spicy as anticipated. I've had better ones elsewhere and there certainly is room to tune up the heat with this one.

Two Spicy dishes came our way -- Ox Tongue (麻辣牛舌) and Konnyaku (麻辣魔芋). The ox tongue is well marinated and cut into thin slices, cooked and tossed in a sauce that accentuated on five-spice and star anise, with strong notes of Szechuan Peppercorns that yield the numbness after the initial hit of heat. Konnyaku surprisingly did not taste like the chewy jelly kin we have in hotpots, in fact the texture resembled most to a firmer tofu. With a similar sauce but the addition of pickled mustard greens and a fresh sprinkled of green onions the konnyaku easily become another popular order in this joint.

We rounded up our meal with a "Cold tossed Starch noodle" (川北涼粉). With minimal heat offered to us the starch noodles, made of mung bean starch, are a specialty in the Szechuan province in China. With this dish they are lightly tossed with a sauce composed of a mixed blend of chilies with the indispensable Szechuan peppercorns and ground cumin, together with chopped up peanuts for an extra crunch. The result is a soft-hard two-way punch that offered everything you think a cold dish should be like.

The meal has been wonderful throughout, despite on one occasion the waiting time lasted for about 45 minutes for one dish to come, but with this many people crowding at this joint and popular dishes sold out every night long before closing time, it is recommended that you arrive early and place your orders early. Don't mind the waiting time, you'll think it's all worth the time and effort.