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2009-09-08
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Ever since my last review awhile ago in Feb 09, preaching about the coffee but not entirely without heldbacks - I was hesitant to believe at first when I began experiencing a resurgent improvement in my coffee experiences @ FUEL Espresso starting around April. I used to depart from here somewhat satisfied but still hoping for a more multi-dimensional cup of a Caffe Lattes/Cappucino that reflects more of its traditional Heritage, while the Espresso in the past was dark and moody, a bit burnt
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ESPRESSO -
Here, I believe ordering a Single Espresso at FUEL is the preferred choice rather than a Double Espresso or the shorter Ristretto, since the longer extractiong encapsulates all the possible lively characteristics in 1 shot. Its partly to do with the 'blending' characteristics and it certainly carries enough body to support a largish 25+ml extraction easily.
As I began slurping this wonderfully extracted Golden-Red nectar, instantly, as if someone had waited for a pouncing opportunity to prove me wrong for once slagging off their efforts and acting in protest to what I'd penned, I was grabbed unexpectedly by the collar of my shirt and taken on a trip to an unfamiliar foreign land.. I caught glimpse of dark steely faces working on high uncontaminated mountain plateaus, their only daily focus involves picking away at red berries and retaining as much of its original freshness flavour with a delicate touch. I could sense the nutritional soil and wet tree barks around me, a whiff of ozone filling the high altitude air proves refreshening. I figure I had probably landed in Africa somewhere....
Just as I was getting accustomed to my new surroundings, greed made me take in my final, 2nd decisive sip as I longed to continue this free afternoon trip, this time engulfing and inhaling in all the remaining thick tiger-striped crema that lined up the bottom of the ceramic demitasse... it was yet another spellbinding moment, only this time, the extraction proved so dense, the remaining crema coating the inner rim was all soapy bubbles not unlike that from a naked portafilter. It was a land of high humidity and sweaty environment, the palm trees in the distance signalling that the ocean couldn't be far away. Where I stand overlooking the 3rd world slopes, one could smell spice and saltiness in the air, an exotic earthiness together with mango ripeness penetrate the senses ever so mildly. It provides the backdrop and body that togethers culminates in an emotionally charged, slightly poignant cupping..
My free travel comes courtesy of my one shot that lasts approximately a minute and a half. Finally arriving back at the highly contrasting real world at International Financial Centre, it suddenly occurred to me that what I had just been through was as real as it gets. The coffee here contains all the correct components which were so alive in the cup, it was like going to an old world Bazaar market, where coffee trades and auctions still thrives and people live off the tiny profits from a non-guaranteed cropping vintage. It happens everyday on a parallel world and we mutually support each other somehow from different ends of the earth.
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There is a great sense of comradery in the staff here. Everyone is also smiling, friendly and proud. The Espresso coffee was great, the Caffe Latte rendered to become more of a formality afterwards and acts as a 'cooling down period' after a quite overseas holiday.
Although relatively expensive, FUEL Espresso is without doubt the most professional and arguably ONLY hardcore Coffee House in Hong Kong. Although I've personally had slightly better in other parts of the world, this is already so good and nowadays also my no.1 preference for coffee. It still remains more affordable than the often inferior drinks from a 5 Star Hotel or even Michelin Starred Restaurants - afterall, high pricing and a blind following of so-called brandnames or world famous Coffee Beans to please high-rollers (these often pre-packed as stale, pod-forms), is not conducive to quality. FUEL definitely buys the best beans from reputable suppliers as well and roasts then keeps them in perfect conditions, each step of the Quality Control is guaranteed from Farm to Cup. There are lots of variables which makes a great coffee, brandname constitutes may be only 10% of the equation. Even here, its not entirely perfect (and so as not to give out seemingly blind appraisals): As BOBLAM has mentioned rightly below - I also find that different baristas even on the same day may make a pour that's notably different in the resulting cup, both espresso and milk texturing... I find this slightly hard to believe since everything else seems perfect. Although I already know whom I prefer to make my coffees, perhaps other customers might not.
If FUEL on HK Island is hard for you to access, CREMA is Tsim Sa Tsui East is also a great alternative, they even share some DNA in the coffee - but the latter carries a slightly rawer expression. If you like either, you're guaranteed to like them both in my opinion. For me, I probably enjoy the Professionalism here the most.
A HIGH '4' to MID '5' PERSONALLY!
张贴
