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2015-07-12
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8/10 plates emptied!吉碟帮帮众在悄无声息中几乎试遍了Black Sheep Restaurants HK里的所有餐厅——在知道它们是隶属同一个餐饮集团之前——包括Carly推崇备至的时尚中餐馆口利福、可用『业界良心』（午餐性价比甚高）来形容的西班牙小菜酒吧Boqueria、吉碟帮曾赞不绝口的法式廉价扒房La Vache!、拥有香港为数不多的Napoli砖窑的意大利Pizza餐厅Motorino等等，还有Carly至爱的口利福。In collaboration with the warriors of Black Sheep Restaurant group, Chef Mario Carbone has successfully snatched the hearts of the Gang by serving first-grade ingredients, offering unpretentious and fun service, scoring epic high on most of the dishes. Carly exclaimed with g
[Written by Carly in English, Gobay in Chinese]
吉碟帮帮众在悄无声息中几乎试遍了Black Sheep Restaurants HK里的所有餐厅——在知道它们是隶属同一个餐饮集团之前——包括Carly推崇备至的时尚中餐馆口利福、可用『业界良心』（午餐性价比甚高）来形容的西班牙小菜酒吧Boqueria、吉碟帮曾赞不绝口的法式廉价扒房La Vache!、拥有香港为数不多的Napoli砖窑的意大利Pizza餐厅Motorino等等，还有Carly至爱的口利福。In collaboration with the warriors of Black Sheep Restaurant group, Chef Mario Carbone has successfully snatched the hearts of the Gang by serving first-grade ingredients, offering unpretentious and fun service, scoring epic high on most of the dishes.
Carly exclaimed with gusto, “woah!” as she took one bite into that alluring piece of lemon cheesecake, she thinks she found the best fruity cheesecake in town. Oh Carbone! You are way more than just homage of great mid-20th century Italian restaurants in America, just so much more.
Just thinking about it, Carly realized there was not one dish that the Gang had to complain about. The trio of master chefs are deemed to be successful in New York, and Carly was very thankful they came to Hong Kong. She is very much in awe of their lavish mob style decor with dark maroon colored curtains, leather deluxe sofa area, small-medium round tables covered with snowy white table clothes, Italian paintings and drawings casually hung on the vintage themed walls.
You can almost picture that there is an American gangster sitting at the corner, smoking his cigar and slowly murmuring with his Italian accent. Carly would picture that a piece of delicate cake at Carbone will make the boss smile.
吉碟帮帮众在悄无声息中几乎试遍了Black Sheep Restaurants HK里的所有餐厅——在知道它们是隶属同一个餐饮集团之前——包括Carly推崇备至的时尚中餐馆口利福、可用『业界良心』（午餐性价比甚高）来形容的西班牙小菜酒吧Boqueria、吉碟帮曾赞不绝口的法式廉价扒房La Vache!、拥有香港为数不多的Napoli砖窑的意大利Pizza餐厅Motorino等等。
直至如今机缘巧合试到Lorling一直心心念念的纽约式意大利餐厅Carbone，我们惊喜地发现，Black Sheep旗下的餐厅，绝大部分都是充满特色之余又带著点家常味道的文化饮食地，几乎都受到了我们的一致好评。
这家纽约式的意大利餐厅由主厨Mario Carbone创立，主场在纽约。装潢带著浓厚的20世纪纽约风味，又似乎有点欧陆气息：高级的皮质红椅和白色桌布的组合、深栗色的窗帘和有艺术画印记的餐具等等。昏黄的灯光下，你似乎能看到一个意裔的美国黑帮大佬抽著雪茄，在餐厅的一角嘟囔著带有意大利口音的英语……废话多说了，下面介绍一下吉碟帮当日的选择：《Antipasti》
【Carpaccio Piemontese | Wagyu Beef, Walnut, Black Truffle | HKD 228】生牛肉薄片沙律|澳洲和牛、核桃碎、黑松露油
It was rather rare to use waygu beef for carpaccio as it generally lacks the manly beef flavor and when they are served raw, the natural fatty goodness will easily lose its edge and lack a certain textural complexity on the palate just because of its delicate and soft texture. Not very traditional to drip black truffle oil over the very well-seasoned carpaccio, the intense black truffle fragrance highlighted the dish with an exceptional note, point taken, not intended to overpower the beef itself. Walnut bits were sprinkled on top for a nutty aroma. Carly suspected a type of house-blend truffle butter was spread over the carpaccio, making it very delectable and hitting the right notes in terms of flavor, while enjoying it with the unique sesame like arugula.
『Carpaccio』起源于义大利的威尼斯，以当地一位著名画家命名，就是因为他作画时偏爱用红白相间的颜料，所以传统的Carpaccio是以生牛肉薄片淋上白色的沙律汁（通常是Parmesan芝士或奶油、柠檬汁、橄榄油、盐和黑胡椒），很简单但很美味的一道菜。菜名中的『Piemontese』是缘于吃生肉是义大利Piedmont地区的特色。这里少见地用了澳洲和牛，而且我们看到的颜色并不是鲜红的，而是有一些反灰白，大概是因为白色的酱汁已经均匀地渗透进肉里，尽管色彩没有一般的Carpaccio靓丽，但味道还是不错的。牛肉的味道比较淡，掺杂在白酱里的黑松露油的味道略显刺鼻故掩盖了不少鲜味，但口感出奇地幼滑，也许用的是和牛的缘故吧，加上新鲜的火箭菜和核桃碎，味道不错。一般Carpaccio都会选用去掉肥肉的牛里脊，即fillet，以精瘦肉为主的部位，而和牛是一种油脂均匀分布的牛肉，就算部位仍是里脊，仍会比普通牛肉更滑一些。窃以为和牛不太适合用作Carpaccio，原因是切成薄片后牛肉味会淡化很多而油腻感会增加，而不喜欢松露油味道的朋友，推荐回避。
【Octopus Pizzaiolo | Spanish Octopus, Roasted Pepper, Fingerling Potato | HKD 198】焖烤西班牙八爪鱼|西班牙八爪鱼、烤甜椒、薯仔
Pizzaiolo is an Italian word often referring to a man who makes pizzas in a pizzeria. A very edgy dish name as you see the sizable octopus tentacles, slightly chewy and lightly seasoned, surprisingly moist and bouncy to its core. Fingerling potatoes are short, stubby, finger-like shaped potatoes usually served as side dish for its small size, nicely roasted and seasoned with salt and pepper. Roasted peppers were almost fruity and sweet, complemented well with the grilled seafood combo.
『Pizzaiolo』在义大利语中就是制作pizza的人，非常让人一头雾水的菜名。让人想起了一部介绍义大利美食的纪录片『Two Greedy Italians』，里面那两个『老男人』也是如这个菜名一样随性随意地好玩。推荐尝试，主要原因除了味道好，还有就是——八爪鱼很大块！有嚼劲却不会太过，肉质仍是柔软湿润的，配合著香甜微辛辣的烤红椒、青椒和洋葱，还有手指般的原只小薯，真心好吃！白璧微瑕的地方是吃的时候它已经暖了，如果热腾腾地上桌，必定更好！《Macaroni》
【Fettuccine con Funghi | Porcini, Pecorino, Nepitella | HKD 198】牛肝菌焙义大利宽面|牛肝菌、Pecorino芝士、Nepitella香草
Fettuccine was slightly overcooked, might be due to the fact that we had this as the last pasta dish since we were busy digging in the reputable spicy rigatoni. Definitely homemade as you can tell the bounciness of the pasta was very natural and delicate, the yellowish color gave us a hint that more eggs were used than normal. Porcini is one of the best types of fungi, delicate enough to flavor a sauce and vigorous enough to withstand the “Breath of Fire” after stir frying or grilling; not to mention that the meat-like texture of Porcini is somehow earthy and subtle nutty.
Pecorino is a type of hardened cheese made from ewe’s milk, commonly produced in Italy. Nepitella, a type of wild herb grown in Italy, Tuscany, and Umbria, these green leaves have a strong, distinctive flavor, somehow reminds you of mint and oregano. The most impressive part of this pasta dish was how the flavors of funghi, cheese and herbs were all soaked into the pasta itself, just think about when was the last time you had excellent pasta where it was not overwhelmed by chunky sauce. This reminded Carly of the real good homemade pasta from Doppio Zero.
宽面有点煮过头了，但无论颜色口感都能明显吃得出是店内自制的新鲜义大利面。牛肝菌是义大利人非常喜爱的菌类，特别是义大利中部城市的中央菜市场里随处可见，但大部分是晒干了的，新鲜的比较少有，它有种类似肉蛋白的口感，和港人很爱吃的杏鲍菇（鸡腿菇）的口感很像，肉质厚嫩多汁，甘甜鲜美。而Pecorino这种非常常用的义大利芝士，此前在Motorino的食评中随处可见，这里就不详细叙述了。Nepitella是一种义大利香草，香味揉合了薄荷的甜和奥勒冈（Oregon）的香，带有非常轻微的香芹的苦味和柠檬香，经常出现在托斯卡纳地区（Toscana）的义大利食物中。这道义大利面的融合性非常好，香草，蘑菇，芝士所有都是简单自然的，淡淡的食材，吃的时候感觉也是淡淡的舒适。
【Spicy Rigatoni Vodka | Tomato, Onion, Calabrian Chili | HKD 198】特色香辣伏特加酱通心粉|番茄、洋葱、义大利Calabria辣椒
Must-try dish at Carbone! Rigatoni was alright al-dente, soft chewy and each rigatoni was swirled and twirled into that rich creamy spicy sauce, well-blended with the sweetness of tomatoes and onions. Calabrian chili is often used for infusing olive oil, goes so well with stews and pastas, small red chili that are only grown in Calabria, Italy.
Gobay was particularly impressed with the mildly spiced pasta, stating that it was a level of spiciness that “lingers on the palate yet crowd-pleasingly enjoyable”. Carly found the rich, thick spicy cream based sauce to be exquisite; no other place out there has made such wonderful rigatonis.
强烈推荐为必食之选！Rigatoni，长通粉的柔韧度恰到好处，柔软中带点刚强。最让人欣喜的是每一个通心粉里里外外都均匀地沾上了厚重的酱汁——口感如奶油般厚滑，到舌尖上带点辛辣，加上番茄和洋葱的酸甜，简直是素食者的天堂。义大利西南部的Calabria地区产的辣椒，它有种让人很舒服的辣度，比Paprika辣椒粉更香浓，但又不过于刺激，那种微热的感觉一直萦绕舌尖带来持续的快感却能让不太能吃辣的香港人都完全愉快享受。
【Lobster Ravioli | Homemade Ravioli, Vermouth, Fine Herbs | HKD 268 】龙虾义大利馄饨|自家鲜制馄饨、苦艾酒、香草
Acclaimed for their seafood ravioli, the seafood oceanic lobster flavors were condensed and very likely cooked in a broth with crushed shells, so all the essence was elevated into the base of the lobster meat sauce and packed into that bite of ravioli. It was rich but lightly refreshing at the same time, salt seasoning might not be needed as the extra hint of herbs gave the right savory and flavorsome kick already.
这也是这里的招牌之一。义大利馄饨的皮厚薄适中，虽然柔软度还不够，但仍算是相当地道的。馅料里有浓郁的龙虾海鲜汤的味道，这种浓香只有当龙虾头和壳也被放入熬煮良久才能得到的咸鲜，如果馅料和面皮的比例再大一点则非常好了。《Contorni》
【Potatoes Sergio | Smashed Potatoes, Scallion, Calabrian Chili | HKD 108】青葱辣味焗薯|薯块、青葱、义大利Calabria辣椒
Carly was utterly impressed with how Carbone did their potatoes so profoundly depicting potatoes as a main character of the dish. These potatoes are worth a second visit. Sergio is the word for tall, good looking fellow who cares about his friends and family, working out and eating healthy. Not sure if this is a perfectly healthy dish, French potatoes being baked, lightly smashed, and then deep fried. Golden lightly crispy potato skins were indulging, and the potatoes were all very well-seasoned with sweet, aromatic Calabrian chilli and onion-like green scallions. These ingredients have been the greatest spotlights for the golden scrumptious potatoes. Carly can even recall the soft mushy and light crispy potatoes from her memory.
强烈推荐必食，就连我们的薯仔达人兼疯狂粉丝Carly都深深被这款焗薯打动！『Sergio』泛指高大英俊而且关心朋友家人的男子，食得健康且勤于锻炼。虽然不一定和这个焗薯有特定关系，但每一个法国薯仔都被稍微轻拍裂了，使得在烤焗和炸的时候，香料的味道充分渗进薯肉中。薯皮香脆，薯肉甘甜粉嫩，加上惹味的Calabrian辣椒的微微辣意，这道黄金焗炸薯简直让小伙伴都惊呆了！《Dessert》
【Lemon Cheesecake】义大利南部香柠芝士饼
We have this term in Chinese, called God-like, 「神级」, prominent world class and undoubtedly, Carbone did quite a great job on the dessert assessment. Carly simply whispered a “woah” after the first bite, she was in a rush to run back for meeting, but couldn't help but to grab a few more spoons before dashing off.
Clear fruity acidic note of fresh lemon zest blended so seamlessly with the intriguing cheese flavor, the creamy cheesecake was very refreshing cool, naturally fruity, rich and dense enough for you to just smooth it out on your palate with a little effort and it quickly dissolves, lifting one’s soul, the cheese flavor was not overpowering yet scrumptiously harmonized; creating this symphony of lemon and cheese all together. Carbone used lemons produced from Southern Italy, same as what Jamie’s Italian did with their lemon pie. Not going to lie, it’s one of the most memorable cakes Carly has ever had in her life before.
我们还没有用过『神级』来形容一道甜品，但这个柠檬芝士饼，实在让人无法不想到这个词！推荐必食！它选用的是义大利南部的柠檬，本身就得天独厚——酒吧里经常有种黄色的酒叫Limoncello，就是用义大利南部特产的柠檬制成的甜酒。这种柠檬的酸，非常的圆润不干涩，而且带著丝丝的甜味和清香，各方面平衡得非常完美的柠檬。而芝士饼本身的口感也非常的好，幼滑细致地融化在口中，加上一点都不腻反而甜酸激爽的柠檬香和松脆的饼底，各种的完美揉合在一起，简直是我们吃过最好吃的芝士饼。
Pasta fairly decent and delicately cooked, desserts hit roaring scores. This proud addition to the Black Sheep Restaurant Group, all the way from New York, pleased the Gang with its service, ambience and food. Certainly worth another visit; to try out other “notorious” desserts and the Mario meatball pasta which is only offered during dinner time.
总体而言，从食物的质量，环境和服务（期间我们问了很多问题都得到了耐心的回答，最后经理还为我们那块芝士饼免了单，作为馈赠）都是上乘的，当然价钱会偏贵，因为毕竟『一分钱一分货』嘛！
张贴
