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2014-05-02
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Perhaps some of you have encountered questions from international visitors....where should I go eat? And the topics always center around the same things....congee, won ton noodles, DIM SUM, roasties.But very very very rarely would someone recommend dai pai dong. The answer is pretty obvious...there's very little to no international appeal, unless the visitor is very adventurous.However for those who are trying to understand iconic foods and food culture from the grass roots level, there is reall
Perhaps some of you have encountered questions from international visitors....where should I go eat? And the topics always center around the same things....congee, won ton noodles, DIM SUM, roasties.But very very very rarely would someone recommend dai pai dong. The answer is pretty obvious...there's very little to no international appeal, unless the visitor is very adventurous.
However for those who are trying to understand iconic foods and food culture from the grass roots level, there is really no better form in Hong Kong than dai pai dong. In fact these are slowly becoming...extinct, for lack of a better word.
About two years ago, I noted a youtube video of a local TV show called "Sunday Files" which featured dai pai dong. They interviewed the family that runs So Kee, who lamented that the goverment provided extended licenses to the dai pai dongs in Central, but totally skipped Sham Shui Po (which conversely is far more neighborhood, in a less affluent area, but far more represents grass roots Hong Kong). So with that in mind, I did my best and squeezed in this much needed pilgrimage to Yiu Tung Street. During a Sunday early afternoon, it was pretty easy to get a bowl of noodles across the street, and also here at So Kee.
Didn't take any time to decide what I wanted.
Pork chop instant noodles, and an iced milk tea.
I have to admit, the food itself is not very interesting to me, as much as I like spam/egg/instant noodles, and a good properly marinated pork chop. This was by far easily surpassing any Hong Kong style cafe in San Francisco Bay Area (and for sure Los Angeles as well)....but couldn't help but feel something was a bit lacking. The pork chop was seasoned, though not as strongly as I would have liked, but at least the cut was lean, just a notch dry. As far as instant noodles goes, guess we are spoiled by "Ding" (Nissan Demae), or Doll brand....but it's quite clear they use a more localized brand which is not quite the same. The iced milk tea wasn't bad.
Despite the surroundings (or lack thereof), there was something very comforting about eating in this part of the neighborhood, pretty much ground zero of grass roots. Most of the customers are locals, just coming in for a snack, and you can tell many are regulars. The waitstaff/family who run the business are very friendly people and aim to please, which is more than I can say for many other family run businesses around town (or those chain shops).
I didn't quite grow up eating this exact style of food while I was living in Hong Kong, as I was much further away from this part of the neighborhood, but can understand that this was very typical of what some high school kids ate (if they were not eating Cafe De Corral style fried chicken legs or hot dogs/burgers/sandwiches at the local HK style fast food joint). But it is nonetheless well worth the visit just for the entire experience. I did not mind at all that I didn't find the pork chop instant noodles spectacular, but strangely rather grateful that I could do so.
My only hope is that this business will continue to survive, and that the HK government changes their mind to not just help the DPD's in Central, but beyond.
I would definitely rather come here, than eat at somewhere like Butao :-o.
张贴
