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2009-09-20
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To many experienced Eaters in Hong Kong who's spent years living and eating in HK - they've probably taken for granted that most Japanese restaurants do serve worst Lunches than Dinners.... However to me personally, I was kind of new to this 'concept' somehow. I've been to some Japanese restaurants in Japan and whilst lunch is cheaper than the dinner (Called a 'Lunch Service' there, to 益 the 午餐食家), the quality discrepancy isn't as large between the 2 time periods as I've observed in Hong Kong's
Isolating away the cheaper, run-of-the-mill Japanese Izakayas - I tend to believe the expectation of Lunch quality in a proper restaurant in Japan is slightly higher.
With the BENEFIT OF HINDSIGHT, nowadays I've finally come to my senses and realised there's no point thinking I'll get 80% of the quality at 30-40% of the price during lunch. The World is fair afterall! So I came here twice testing Dinner, and the quality was without doubt a notch or two above my lunch experiences.
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SUSHI NIGIRI'S:
Tried a few types of fishes here. From memory, these might include 海胆、平目、金目鲷、缟鯵、初鲣、生乌贼、穴子、マコガレイ、ビンナガマグロ、etc, etc. Didn't take photos for everything here with the chef or staff watching!
The 鲣 here isn't pre-smoked or pre-grilled tataki style, and is very tasty - its a rare way of eating it in Hong Kong. The 海胆 doesn't come with any Seaweed either, an increasing trend lately even back in Japan but this version didn't come with the Himalayan Pink Salt but only a dab of fresh wasabi. They carry 3 types of Sea Urchins in this shop for night time selling - 2 types of 马粪 and 1 type of 紫海胆, they can also have Raw Freshly Opened 海胆 when in season. The 穴子 is excellent, the 平目 isn't chewy and even slightly fatty, 金目鲷 is ultra-fresh at night, マコガレイ being a top fish in Japan during Spring/Summer was ordered though tasted slightly bland somewhat.
My friends have noticed that Sushi Nigiri quality here varies - it depends on the Kyushu chef's moods and whose on duty. In my honest opinion, I think the sushi's here are quite good but to me, Sushi's is like an Art - a well known Artist or Calligrapher stamps his authority on his expertise, and so do Sushi Masters when they're experienced enough that every piece of nigiri arrives in the form of an art-piece! These night time experiences would rate as Above-Average, yet the overall experience wouldn't convince one into thinking its the work of a Sushi Artist. Its actually QUITE GREAT, BETTER THAN MOST PLACES INFACT, but if you've ever had top quality sushi anywhere - you'll know what I mean. To be fair though, I still haven't experienced a Top Sushi lunch/dinner locally as yet but I haven't tried a lot of places still.
HOT FOOD:
These are really great indeed, the flavours are well balanced and frying techniques are really good here - despite the back kitchen chef being Hong Kong-nese these items have great Quality Control, especially the Tempura items. One thing worth remembering was an アイナメ （鲇鱼女), which despite the name is completely unrelated to 鲇鱼/香鱼 at all, its seems confusing to many people somehow even to Japanese. It even has a narrower seasonal band. This is cooked in a Soy based sauce, much like my lunch Fish Head - its very 滑 and sweet, despite the presence of little bones but slightly more expensive than its similarly named competitor.
OVERALL - The advantage of Sushi Toku is that they always have the best seasonal fishes available, some of which cannot be found in other Japanese restaurants either - I definitely saw some fishes I've never eaten before, whether it be raw or cooked. That's its specialty here. DINNER = MID '4' to HIGH '4'. Not as good as Sushi Hiro on a Good Day with a Good Chef, but beats there when the other places has an Off-Day!
张贴
