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2015-09-20
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I'm a sucker for fusion. The principle is undeniable: recipes should not be held hostage to history and the worldwide distribution of flora and fauna. Everything belongs on a taco, or in a dumpling, or deep-fried. Not just those things that traditionally are put in tacos, dumplings, and deep fryers. But somehow, it rarely works. The Drunken Duck is mediocre fusion, at best.The beer selection is a little small for a gastropub. I tried a Murray's Big Wednesday, because it said dry and hoppy on the
But somehow, it rarely works. The Drunken Duck is mediocre fusion, at best. The beer selection is a little small for a gastropub. I tried a Murray's Big Wednesday, because it said dry and hoppy on the menu. I know how to pour a beer. I wasn't born yesterday. Somehow, even careful pouring resulted in an extremely foamy beer. There aren't a whole lot of vegetables on the menu. Three of the salads, for instance, are duck, tuna, and chicken, with some veggies as well. We got the only other salad: "carpaccio of organic beetroot and goat's cheese, bean shoots, spring onions, pomelo, herbs." It's not that I dislike any of those ingredients (not the biggest beet fan though), but I really felt that this salad did not "go together." Like, pomelo and goat cheese and bean sprouts aren't very synergistic. (Rating: no thanks) "Roasted lamb & mint dumplings" w/ "tomato momo dip". As far as menu items go, this seemed really exciting to me. Arriving, it was sort of strange to figure out how to eat. There's no chopsticks at the table, so you kinda gotta just stab the dumplings with a fork. That seems like a bad idea, because they look like xiao long bao, but they're actually not juicy inside. The filling is a sort of Indian (or Nepalese) -spiced ground lamb, and in my opinion is not really the right texture for a dumpling. The meat doesn't clump together like in a normal dumpling, and when you bite it things just fall apart. The sauce is a little tart, but doesn't greatly complement the dumpling. (Rating: OK) "Red & green curry pies." Sorry about the pic, I forgot to take one until I was tearing in. This is about half of a green curry pie.
Before I continue, let me raise one issue. A lot of the sharing plates have sauces or are saucy. So at this point in the meal, I have beetroot juice, momo sauce and green curry all mingling on my plate. And my personal plate is small, so it's hard to keep them separated.
Anyway, the pie crust was good. The curry inside was surprisingly spicy. Not stop-you-in-your-tracks spicy, but quite strong for a British place. The curry was mediocre though. I can make better curries and I'm not a fancy gastropub chef who's worked at Michelin starred restaurants. (Rating: OK) We had to get the duck. There's a picture out front with a duck stuffed with a can of Tsingtao, but they recently updated the menu and this one is "marinated in masala spices, then steamed, dried, sozzled in Kingfisher beer, and fire roasted in a duck oven." It comes with roti and some sauces. Altogether, I thought the duck was a little cold, the skin was soggy rather than being crispy and it was just OK. When you're in Hong Kong, you can't get away with OK roast duck. (Rating: OK)
If the sign says "fusion gastropub," you can be sure I'll give it a try, even though that moniker is, in my experience, anti-correlated with goodness. Sometimes it works out, but not this time. Restaurant rating: fails to impress.
Some final notes: I liked our server. The place is open-air so maybe not best for a humid HK night. Food was $516 before drinks and service charge.
张贴