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2019-09-12
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We had lunch at Arbor for our anniversary. The bottom line is, don't try the weekly tasting menu for the variety. The chef's omakase menu is so much better in almost every sense.We ordered one weekly menu at 588 and one chef's tasting menu at 888. My wife ordered peach nectar and I had Sancerre Cuvee Flores by Domaine Vincent Picard 2017 on top of the sparkling water. The wine was fruity and refreshing, with a crisp finish.The amuse bouche is a beef tartare on crispy Nori seaweed shell, topped w
The amuse bouche is a beef tartare on crispy Nori seaweed shell, topped with a tangy emulsion that cuts through the richness of the beef. Quite a nice start.
amuse bouche
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Brioche + mentaiko and kombu butter
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Then for the chef's omakase, the starter is foie gras mousse with fig and prune compote, topped with some crispy fried floral buds (the server did explain it's from Japan, but it's just impossible to recall the full description...). This starter is sure a winner -- the foie gras mousse is creamy and velvety smooth with a hint of mineral taste, the fresh fig and the compote works together to cut through the richness. Then the crispy bits and the green emulsion add contrasts of texture. Everything is well balanced and the presentation also looks pleasing.
Foie gras mousse
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Seared saba, fruit tomato, kombu stock
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sous-vide octopus, chestnut, gingko, lotus root, pearl barley in chestnut emulsion
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For the weekly tasting menu, the second course is mirin-marinated ikura wrapped in thinly sliced radish, over diced radish and crispy fried bits, with a tart emulsion (I can't recall what they used in it, but I don't think the taste profiles of those ingredients work too well anyway). Each ikura sac is like a pop of briny and winey concoction, which is quite interesting. The radish and the crispy bits actually add more complexity in texture, yet without adding to the flavours. The emulsion honestly doesn't work IMO -- it's sour, but without depth of any kind. I think some smokiness or even a subtle bonito or eel taste in the emulsion would echo with the ikura and add more depth. Oh, did I mention the uninspired plating?
Ikura, radish, crispy bits
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A4 wagyu tenderloin
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Pork tongue, sichuan pepper, cabbage, turnip mash
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Chocolate platter -- creme brulee, hojicha choco gelato, dark choco sables
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Grapefruit sorbet, frozen vesicles and candied peel in frozen cheese cup over flaked meringue
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Matcha macarons, warm madeleines
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All in all, I really don't get the pork tongue main course -- looks like boarding school canteen food with foam. As you might have noticed, the weekly tasting menu is just some kind of filler to cater to a lower price range. I believe a dignified chef won't budge on his vision. If your culinary vision can't be realized at a lower price, just stick with one menu that you're really happy with.
On the up side, service was thoughtful, detailed and very friendly. The wine was excellent and of good value. The room gets quite noisy when full. I think the ambiance is somewhat lacking. And the washroom is definitely not Michelin star-worthy. Don't use it unless you really need to.
Other Info. :
My advice -- Order the Chef's omakase menu. It's closer to my idea of fine dining. If you really like beef, order the wagyu with extra. Just don't expect it to taste different from any good steak you've had. But I do believe the fish or pigeon course won't be too bad (won't be as bad as the pork tongue, I suppose).
(The above review is the personal opinion of a user which does not represent OpenRice's point of view.)
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