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2018-05-06 1969 views
Arbor是尖沙咀Epure的姐妹餐廳,都是主廚Nicolas Boutin負責的。前段時間剛去了Epure覺得普普通通,所以對Arbor的期望也不是很高。菜單有兩種,我們選擇了海鮮多一點的春季菜單,一共八道菜,包括了像Amuse Bouche一樣的海膽,以及像贈送甜品一樣的madeleine。所以正兒八經的菜一共就六道,和Epure很像,道數不多。第一道來自北海道的海膽,搭配wasabi放在cracker上。好的海膽應該是甜而不腥,所以不明白為什麼搭配wasabi。wasabi的味道完全蓋過了海膽本身的甜,而cracker的硬脆質感也遮蓋了海膽的綿密口感。第二道粉生蠔,這道口感倒是清新爽口。第三道是鴨肝慕斯,搭配日本梅子等。這道慕斯比我之前吃過的鴨肝慕斯質感輕薄一些,沒那麼厚重,吃起來也不會特別膩,口感很滑。搭配的醬酸酸甜甜恰到好處。這道很喜歡。第四道是白蘆筍和綠蘆筍,搭配蛋黃醬,蛋黃醬里加了少許味曾。首先蘆筍是事先切好的,但是我的那根綠的沒切好,就是沒有完全切斷。擺盤、創意、味道、口感完全平淡的一道。第五道是藍龍蝦搭配來自日本的玉米和龍蝦汁。味道不錯,不過藍龍和玉米的食材搭配讓我有
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Arbor是尖沙咀Epure的姐妹餐廳,都是主廚Nicolas Boutin負責的。前段時間剛去了Epure覺得普普通通,所以對Arbor的期望也不是很高。

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菜單有兩種,我們選擇了海鮮多一點的春季菜單,一共八道菜,包括了像Amuse Bouche一樣的海膽,以及像贈送甜品一樣的madeleine。所以正兒八經的菜一共就六道,和Epure很像,道數不多。

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第一道來自北海道的海膽,搭配wasabi放在cracker上。好的海膽應該是甜而不腥,所以不明白為什麼搭配wasabi。wasabi的味道完全蓋過了海膽本身的甜,而cracker的硬脆質感也遮蓋了海膽的綿密口感。

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第二道粉生蠔,這道口感倒是清新爽口。

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第三道是鴨肝慕斯,搭配日本梅子等。這道慕斯比我之前吃過的鴨肝慕斯質感輕薄一些,沒那麼厚重,吃起來也不會特別膩,口感很滑。搭配的醬酸酸甜甜恰到好處。這道很喜歡。

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第四道是白蘆筍和綠蘆筍,搭配蛋黃醬,蛋黃醬里加了少許味曾。首先蘆筍是事先切好的,但是我的那根綠的沒切好,就是沒有完全切斷。擺盤、創意、味道、口感完全平淡的一道。

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第五道是藍龍蝦搭配來自日本的玉米和龍蝦汁。味道不錯,不過藍龍和玉米的食材搭配讓我有點不理解。

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第六道原本是雞胸肉,但是我因為不喜歡雞肉換了鱸魚。我朋友吃了雞肉,表示味道非常普通。我的鱸魚搭配了三個蘿蔔球,魚肉鮮嫩,做的比epure的好吃,湯汁也入味。這道也喜歡。

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第七道是酒糟冰淇淋搭配草莓,最近在很多餐廳都吃到了酒糟冰淇淋,味道看似清新實則濃郁又沒那麼甜,很喜歡,搭配草莓感覺也是恰到好處。

第八道,我都不覺得是一道菜所以沒有拍照,是比平時大一圈的madeleine。侍者有介紹這個madeleine加了一些其他元素在裡面,我吃的時候還特地留意了,並沒有吃出特別的味道。

整體吃完我感覺和Epure非常的相似,Epure我也選擇了季節菜單,兩個菜單都有生蠔,都有蘆筍。和Epure道數一樣,整體感覺也差不多,擺盤很像都沒有驚喜,味道也是穩扎穩打平平淡淡。我其實有點不理解一個廚師在同一個城市開兩家感覺完全一樣的餐廳是為什麼。同一棟樓的另外一家餐廳菜式做的更有誠意。

最後的結論跟我對Epure的評價很像,1488六道的法餐,在香港做的比這個好的選擇還是很多的。
(The above review is the personal opinion of a user which does not represent OpenRice's point of view.)
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DETAILED RATING
Taste
Decor
Service
Hygiene
Value
Dining Method
Dine In
Spending Per Head
$1700 (Dinner)
Level4
2018-05-05 8523 views
One Michelin starred Épure has recently opened across the harbour at H Queen's, the newest art hub and dining paradise in Central. Arbor, its sister establishment, becomes the latest member to join the city's crowded fine dining scene, which is going to get even more crowded with the likes of Ecriture joining the party this month.I was curious of who they would put in charge of Arbor's kitchen and it turned out, chef Eric Räty, who was the former chef de cuisine at Café Gray Deluxe at The Upper
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One Michelin starred Épure has recently opened across the harbour at H Queen's, the newest art hub and dining paradise in Central. Arbor, its sister establishment, becomes the latest member to join the city's crowded fine dining scene, which is going to get even more crowded with the likes of Ecriture joining the party this month.
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I was curious of who they would put in charge of Arbor's kitchen and it turned out, chef Eric Räty, who was the former chef de cuisine at Café Gray Deluxe at The Upper House, was the man entrusted to take the helm.
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I have recruited up-and-coming foodie, MOM (no relation to MI6) to be my partner-in-crime for this lunch. Let's see if their contemporary French cuisine could get her out of her seat. 
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We had a bit of a problem deciding whether to take the 3-course ($468) and 4-course ($538) menu. Unlike some of the other fine dining establishments, the multi-course menus here are completely different without a single common item, which created a little headache for the both of us.

After some nerve-racking moments, we were finally able to decide. I will take on the 4-course menu while mom will have 3-course. Thankfully, the restaurant does not require us to take the same menu (like some places would).

Our amuse bouche was a scoop of foie gras custard served on a bed of rhubarb purée along with Japanese plum coulis and shaved buckwheat. Pretty good start.
Amuse bouche
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Bread was some homemade sourdough served with two types of butter. The left one was made with bonito. Didn't get the second one but I thought it's kombu with a bit of herbs on top.
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I traded starters with mom coz she doesn't like raw fish. On the other hand, I'm a sucker for hamachi so this was a perfect trade, at least on my part. This was just very delicious. The silky hamachi sashimi was perfectly matched with Japanese tomato and served in a light tomato consommé infused with kombu oil. It was a very refreshing dish and the clean flavors from the tomato were an amazing way to kick off the meal.
Hamachi served in a light tomato consommé with tomato and candied kombu
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In place of the hamachi sashimi, mom was having my Ebisu oyster but since she doesn't like raw oyster (on top of raw fish), the kitchen did their part turning it into a lightly poached oyster for her. 

This was a pretty nice dish too. The oyster was paired with cucumber granita, pickled cucumber, oyster leaf and buttermilk espuma. Again very clean and natural flavors, this time coming from the cucumber and oyster leaf which helped to give this dish another dimension.
Ebisu oyster with cucumber granita, pickled cucumber, oyster leaf and buttermilk espuma
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The second dish from the 4-course set was something that I've been seeing a lot lately - green and white asparagus which are in-season right now. These were poached and served with finger lime for some nice acidity and a special Hollandaise sauce infused with white miso. Not bad.
Green and white asparagus with fingerlime and Hollandaise sauce infused with white miso
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Both of our main courses were coming up fast and furious. Mom's having French chicken with a slice of roasted chicken breast nicely complemented with a second portion from the leg which has been confit (I think). Some carrot purée on the side helped to offset the richness of the chicken.
French chicken with carrot purée
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My main course was braised veal cheek with sweet potato, purple potato chip and fresh black pepper. While the dish didn't score very high with its presentation, I thought the veal cheek was really nice and tender. There were different textures of sweet potato and purple potato there to balance things out. 
Braised veal cheek with sweet potato and fresh black pepper
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For mom, dessert was a few sticks of chocolate mousse with chocolate crumble and scoop of sorbet which I guessed was basil (didn't get the chance to try it myself so I guess I would never find out). Pretty decent.
Chocolate mousse
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I got more premium Japanese ingredients, this time it was Japanese strawberries in a chilled strawberry soup. I was busy answering a call when our server was explaining all the ingredients so like mom's sorbet, I missed the part about my sorbet as well. But judging from the flavors, I would take a wild guess that it's green tomato!?
Japanese strawberries
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A freshly made madeleine straight from the oven serving as our petite four.
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Living up to its reputation as a French-Japanese fusion, Arbor combines modern French cooking with premium Japanese ingredients. I thought Arbor's cuisine is a lot more contemporary comparing to Épure's and you can really tell the difference in style. But after all, I guess there's no point of making the two alike.

This was the second of my four highly anticipated meals this week. With HAKU and Arbor down, I still have à nu retrouvez-vous and Ecriture coming up later the week. A really busy week for my stomach!
(The above review is the personal opinion of a user which does not represent OpenRice's point of view.)
Post
DETAILED RATING
Taste
Decor
Service
Hygiene
Value
Date of Visit
2018-04-23
Dining Method
Dine In
Spending Per Head
$538 (Lunch)
Recommended Dishes
Hamachi served in a light tomato consommé with tomato and candied kombu
Ebisu oyster with cucumber granita, pickled cucumber, oyster leaf and buttermilk espuma
Braised veal cheek with sweet potato and fresh black pepper
  • Ebisu oyster with cucumber granita
  • pickled cucumber
  • oyster leaf and buttermilk espuma