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2023-03-19
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【 First and foremost, my modest knowledge on the Nordic fine-dining scene 】Serving. Don’t know since when Nordic cuisine came to the forefront of gastronomy. To the best of my knowledge, it’s perhaps after Noma. But more recently it might be Chef Rasmus Kofoed and his Geranium in Copenhagen that caught your attention. Otherwise perfect meals, one small thing I don’t really like about many of those Nordic restaurants is they serve a lot of smaller bites you need to pick up by hand throughout th
Serving. Don’t know since when Nordic cuisine came to the forefront of gastronomy. To the best of my knowledge, it’s perhaps after Noma. But more recently it might be Chef Rasmus Kofoed and his Geranium in Copenhagen that caught your attention. Otherwise perfect meals, one small thing I don’t really like about many of those Nordic restaurants is they serve a lot of smaller bites you need to pick up by hand throughout the course. I prefer fork and knife when dining at as refined a place as Geranium. But today most were fork and knife moments.
Ingredients. Nordic countries are well known for severe winters and chefs may at times be desperate for suitable local ingredients. So the chances are, we can taste something we less frequently come across, some rarities hidden in the forest that long ago were survival food.
Exoticism. Eating exotic things seems to be a worldwide phenomenon. Offal has already been commonplace. Now we talk about brains or insects or even something as outrageous as soup made from mud. Extending from conventionally using broader types of ingredients, serving unusual food becomes less unusual in Nordic culture. Personally I have no problem eating exotic things but there should be a reason for those ingredients to be used, and also a limit to any idiosyncrasy chefs would like to demonstrate. For example, it is perfectly acceptable that some ants that tasted like citrus are used in South American cooking, as they are functional as seasoning in lieu of the fruit. But putting a bowl of live crawling woodlice in front of you then pouring hot tom yum to kill them is another thing (Alchemist in Copenhagen). I sincerely hope someone can enlighten me what’s the point of killing woodlice in hot soup other than a blatant drama 🤔. Gladly Embla presented their food in a way I can say elegant.
【 My experience at Embla 】
Embla is a cosy space with large windows expanded on to the floor. Although located at the back of a row, on a sunny day like today, a right amount of sunlight can come through, land on the dark panels, wood chairs and empyrean blue seats and light up the whole place. You’ll feel delighted and relaxed dining here.
If you’re a first-timer, I suggest you choose counter seats where you can see the actions and talk to the chefs. You should be ‘warned’ that you will taste something delicious but different from what you experience at French and Italian eateries. This Nordic restaurant presents you with a taste profile quite distinct and the nuance, of course, comes from the tradition of the north that is simple and severe. You may take a bit of time to appreciate the dainties Embla has to offer if you’re used to Caprice or Gaddi’s.
【 Sav Sparkling Birch Sap Wine 】To enjoy full Nordic experience, my friend decided the meal be fully Nordic, including wines, despite my hesitation — Embla has an extensive and impressive wine inventory for a small restaurant. You don’t have to restrict yourself to certain wines.
Sav is a small production - as you can read from the label. Birch sap wine told another story of winemaking. The much less sugar content of the sap created a wine that’s woody, dry and faintly leathery, almost devoid of fruit. Of course, there was no fruit yet it let you taste as if sucrose-like among the minerality of the wine. It meant a rather one of a kind experience especially it was effervescent. And that’s quite suitable for some heavier, more oily, and slightly sweet dishes. 【 Cured yellow tail, spring radish, vendace roe from Kalix, rosenkvitten & lemon verbena 】
The chef brought us straight to appetiser. As far as I could remember the original Frantzén in Stockholm, the serving - tableware, counter setting and the way food was presented - spoke of some influence from Japan while the food was essentially Nordic. Here in Hong Kong Embla stood on their own and talked the unquestionably European language.
Cured yellow tail | spring radish | vendace roe from Kalix | rosenkvitten & lemon verbena
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【 Roe deer tartare, ättika emulsion, semi dried carrots, deep fried lichens, browned butter & parsley 】
In spite that it was in a Swedish white vinaigrette (ättika) emulsion, the roe deer tartare did not have excessive level of tart and acidity. Instead it tasted light and the seasoning was surprisingly mild and appropriate with beurre noisette and parsley adding an extra layer of flavours. The semi cooked carrots placed in circle stole the show with the special half-soft half-chewy texture and subtle sweetness, on top of which lay the deep-fried lichens scattered. Finally a few pedals of marigold painted a picture of fall on a sunny spring day.
Roe deer tartare | ättika emulsion | semi dried carrots | deep fried lichens | browned butter & parsley
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【 Sour milk bread “Rye, spelt, barley, oats” & home made butter 】
The multi-grain bread showed quite a character of its own. Tasty it was, I found it a bit powdery and over-baked. The sour milk butter gave its comforting tenderness on your palate and generously expressed noticeable saltiness.
Sour milk bread “Rye / spelt / barley / oats”
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Sour Milk Butter
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Pickled Jerusalem artichoke | mushroom bouillon | sunflower seeds | marigold & Swedish barley miso
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【 Orange Wine — Vexebo Vin ‘Solaris’ 2021 】
For the mains, we chose a Solaris wine. You can always Google what varietal Solaris is and so I will stick to describing the taste of the wine here. Refreshingly fruity and flagrant on the nose, the wine effused dryness that you would expect of a fine young white on the palate with clear and crispy tang of the skin.
Not complex but impressive with the bitterness from the skin and fresh fruit, Vexebo was a felicitous wine and went well with the mains forthcoming. 【 First Main — Skrei from Lofoten, baby leeks, razor clams, Sandefjord sauce & pike roe 】
First Main — Skrei from Lofoten | baby leeks | razor clams | Sandefjord sauce & pike roe
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【 Second Main — Roasted yellow chicken, smoked velouté, Nordic cabbage pudding & rapeseed oil 】
Second Main — Roasted yellow chicken | smoked velouté | Nordic cabbage pudding & rapeseed oil
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【 Sea buckthorn sorbet, orange cake, meringue, preserved orange & tuile 】
Sea buckthorn sorbet | orange cake | meringue | preserved orange & tuile
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【 Inspiration of “Fika” —— “Christmas Tree” Financier and Coffee 】
Fika represented more than just coffee time with sweets at Embla. Here we had financier embraced with spruce - the Christmas tree. The spruce tips gave the delectable financier a subtle flagrance, not to mention those spiky tips were full of vitamin C. The texture of these almond teacakes was spot on, striking a right balance between too powdery (too dry) and too soggy (too moist). The taste was undoubtedly French with a Nordic twist.
'Christmas Tree' Financier
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French-pressed Coffee
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