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2025-01-21
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This restaurant integrates Italian cooking with a Japanese touch, with owner chef Yoshinaga Jinbo aiming to highlight the flavours of the ingredients through impeccable execution of his cooking. On this Saturday after the Christmas holiday, we come to On Lan Street in Central, to see how the chef weaves his magic on the ingredients.The décor of the restaurant has a chic and artistic vibe, with the wallpaper having a nice diamond pattern decorated with some art pieces that has apparently paid tri
This restaurant integrates Italian cooking with a Japanese touch, with owner chef Yoshinaga Jinbo aiming to highlight the flavours of the ingredients through impeccable execution of his cooking. On this Saturday after the Christmas holiday, we come to On Lan Street in Central, to see how the chef weaves his magic on the ingredients.
The décor of the restaurant has a chic and artistic vibe, with the wallpaper having a nice diamond pattern decorated with some art pieces that has apparently paid tribute to the signature Yayoi Kusama dotted pumpkins. Even the fabric of the sofa and chairs have intricate designs sewn, and the overall ambience is relaxing, with a touch of subtle luxury premium.
We order a bottle of Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Chardonnay 2022 ($1,380). This wine comes from Margaret River in Western Australia, with a nice citrus note supplemented with plenty of peach and apricot, good vanilla and toasty oak, and finishing with some almond. The fresh acidity makes it a nice match with most of the seafood and also can go with the pork loin well.
We decide to order two starters, one pasta, and two main courses to share. Starting with Citrino Sea Salad ($368), and although it is called salad, there is no vegetable, instead featuring a range of seasonal fresh seafood, which I can identify a few, including deep-fried tilefish, marinated tuna, squid, applewood-smoked scallop, slow-cooked abalone, prawn, clam-jelly caviar. Paired with an appetizing and refreshing citrus dressing, it is very delicious and umami in taste. Excellent.
The next starter is Seasonal Organic Vegetable Smoke Baona Cauda ($338). This is Chef Jinbo’s signature dish, featuring 35 different types of vegetables, drawing a big wow and smile from both of us when the staff presents those colourful and beautiful assorted ingredients to us. Seeing these we already know the dish will not be disappointing.
The warm salad highlights the different texture and flavours of the vegetables using different cooking methods, but without excessive seasoning or any other protein. With a flavourful Baona Cauda sauce made with potato, garlic, and anchovy, the salad is truly amazing and a must-try. No wonder I see almost all the tables have ordered this one.
For the pasta, we order the Crab Pasta ($788) which is not on the menu. The capellini has a wonderful al dente, cooked with a lobster stock, together with king crab and snow crab meat, with a bit of Japanese green chili added so there is a hint of stimulating spiciness. Very delicious, the pasta has absorbed the flavours of the lobster stock, harmonized nicely with the crab meat. The chili is the touch of genius to add extra layer of flavours and make the whole pasta lively. Excellent.
On the main course we have Toothfish ($498) which is also not on menu. The fish is slightly seared and then cooked ‘En Papillote’, wrapped inside a parchment paper with fresh clams and tomato. The fish has a firm texture, rich in fish flavours, testimony to the quality of the ingredient. The essence of the clams and fish, along with the tomatoes, are showing up in the stock, which are so delicious I scooped up every last drop from the plate. Excellent.
The other main course is Succulent Iberico Pork-Loin ($480). The pork loin is seared beautifully on the surface to caramelize, with the interior still showing pink, very juicy and full of flavours, and the chef has thoughtfully added a bit of fresh peppers on the side for us to season as needed. Paired with a nice veal porcini marsala wine sauce, on the side there is a broccoli puree, with two pieces of deep-fried samosa which contains Napa cabbage. Excellent.
Coming to dessert, I have chosen Citrino Tiramisu ($148). Served in a large coffee cup, the tiramisu is authentic in taste, with the ladyfinger dipped in coffee at the bottom, with a rich middle layer of mascarpone cream, and cocoa powder on top. A nice twist is the addition of coffee jelly to increase the texture. On the side there is coffee gelato as well. Very good.
My wife has Seasonal Gelato ($128), which includes two flavours of Pistachio and Chocolate. Both the gelato are homemade, soft and creamy in texture, and appropriate on sweetness, with a wafer and honey cake to go together. Very good.
Wrapping up with a cup of coffee, it is a highly satisfying dinner. Service is very nice, with the staff attentive and courteous. The overall dining experience is joyful, and the food is truly exceptional. The bill on the night is $4,783. Reasonable for such high-quality ingredients. Excellent Italian cuisine with a touch of Japanese finesse.
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