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2008-10-29
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There was a time when Godiva dominated the chocolates market like nobody else. It's everywhere, selling round miniature truffles which were stacked up in porcelain bowls. The flavours were conservative choices -- either liqueur-centered chocolates or nut-coated globes of an otherwise bland chocolate candies. Then chocolatiers in the world opened our eyes with experimentation in addition of spices, fruits and exotica alike. While the flavor combination may be unseemly, and often considered a sham
"Your Camera is On", I was greeted by the salesperson with that, half-smiling. I attempted to snap a few pictures in the chocolatier, but only did I realize that the salespersons are all business in a robotic manner. "We were told that customers are not allowed to take pictures within the shop's premise" was the supporting line, said in such mechanical tone to me that reminded me that maybe they also smile by demands and bow on requests...Neatly decorated with mirrored shelves of gift boxes and jarred compotes, JPH looked smaller then the shop has intended, but that didn't matter as much as I looked into the glass case for the real jewels.
On one side of the store is the chocolates case, where squares of chocolates are displayed in array awaiting our affection. For $15 apiece, JPH makes a wonderful Caramel (with dark chocolate). On the first bite the chocolate coating forms a nice crunch while you see a dark-caramel ganache slowly melting. You wouldn't be able to help but licking it up. Placing the rest of the chocolate in you'll feel the sensation as if a slice of room temperature butter gently melting away coating your tastebuds, with such sensual pleasure indescribable only in the case of chocolates and perhaps, butter. COSTA RICA is a short cylindrical shape in a foil cap. It is essentially a dark chocolate ganache combined with orange liqueur, encased inside thin chocolate coating. The sharpness of the liqueur penetrates through the bitterness of the chocolate. GJANDUJA though, concentrated on almonds, rather than the conventional Italian choice of Hazelnuts, which would be just perfect with chocolate indeed. ANNAM is another favorite, with a distinct scent of orange blossom throughout.
Browsing through rows of mediants and orangettes (candied orange peels dipped in chocolate), I reached the selections of macaroons in many shades of brown. Mostly chocolate-based, JPH's macaroons masterfully match chocolate of different cocoa content with flavourings. BERGAMOT pairs with a milk chocolate to enhance its citrus flavour, reminiscent of Earl Grey and candied lemon peel altogether. HONEY is said to contain three types of honey in the entire macaroon, yet the honey tasted so faintly I would've guessed it's "wildflower", "acacia" and "clover" -- all lightly flavored honey. I would prefer one made with a darker honey such as Buckwheat or Chestnut honey. ORANGE-GINGER is a duo of flavour that reminds me of autumn. A light tang of the citrus accompanied by a sharp tinge of dried ginger. It's a funny combination but certainly not as surprising as CORIANDER with dark chocolate.
A new collection of "B MACAROONS" are introduced. They are really just a combination of two flavours, one being chocolate and the other, the featured flavour including RASPBERRY, PISTACHIO, CARAMEL, PASSION FRUIT, and FIG. Passion fruit is brightly orange in colour but the filling somehow didn't quite match with the chocolate, in fact the aftertaste of apricot is quite potent and it's easy to be confused whether it's apricot or passion fruit that we're tasting, since the macaroon lacks the essential tartness from passion fruit. Fig, however, is a delight. With a tarragon-infused chocolate ganache each bite of the macaroon you can feel the little pips (seeds) in the fig filling. The flavours with the macaroons are not as vibrant and fruity as those offered in LGB, but they match well with a chocolate flavour. If you look closer you'll realize the thought they put in trying out the perfect taste for each product.
A real chocoholic will find no problem rapting with joy in a chocolatier like Jean Paul Hevin, it is, afterall, a foreign export of chocolatier abroad. I sure hope they continue to experiment and create new flavour combinations while maintaining the old favorites in the standard they keep now. Then again, this is a place only for those who appreciate chocolate for chocolate itself, and the artisanal craft of the art.
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