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2022-02-23
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New restaurant taking over the space of Frantzén’s Kitchen. Also serving contemporary Nordic cuisine with the same chef (different group), and the same marble counter top.6 courses set lunch for $788 pp. No a la carte menu.Wine list was good. Ordered a glass of burgundy red.First to come: sour milk bread made with different types of flour, molasses (black treacle) and pumpkin seeds. Crusty and piping hot; soft middle went well with the fermented butter.First appetizer: locally sourced yellow tai
6 courses set lunch for $788 pp. No a la carte menu.
Wine list was good. Ordered a glass of burgundy red.
First to come: sour milk bread made with different types of flour, molasses (black treacle) and pumpkin seeds. Crusty and piping hot; soft middle went well with the fermented butter.
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First appetizer: locally sourced yellow tail
“gravlax” (ie cured using a mix of salt/ sugar), with beer poached brown crab, smoked avocado, horseradish and crackers. Couldn’t really taste the crab, but the horseradish did add punchiness to the dish. Crackers added texture, a bit too hard.
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Next: celeriac (aka celery root) fondant with smoked tea aspic (jelly) and sturgeon caviar from China on top; in a fermented onion broth. Caviar had a nutty flavour; broth was slightly salty; should be taken together with the celeriac.
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Mains:
Turbot skirt with clams. Thyme sauce and mushroom purée. Cooked perfectly.
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Lamb neck with charred eggplant purée, semi dried tomatoes, goat cheese and pumpkin seed vinaigrette. Lamb neck is usually a tough cut, fatty and full of gelatine. Here it had been cooked for 72 hours which made it very tender, strong-flavored but not gamey.
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For dessert: parsnip crème caramel, rum raisins, fermented cherry sorbet and coffee granita on top. Parsnips are cream-colored, carrot-shaped root vegetables, which taste slightly sweet. Interestingly creative to have it made as a crème caramel.
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Last but not least: to go with the complimentary coffee: a trio of madeleine, truffle and pâte de fruits. Particular noteworthy was the pâte de fruits- jelly candy made with carrot and sea buckthorn berries. Sea buckthorn berries are small yellow/orange berries found near the Scandinavian shores, and taste a bit like apricots.
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In summary: Embla, meaning “elm”, has a lovely nature meaning; whilst characteristics of new Nordic cuisine include purity, simplicity and freshness. Chef Löfdahl was spot on in creating this effect with his cooking, plating and decor. Interesting experience; recommended.
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