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2018-01-16
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Summary: A brunch defined by its incredible AYCE potato sides, along with pretty good steak (don’t take my word for it though). Good value overall and a comfortable space for a long, boozy brunchThree days later, I’m still not sure if Atelier Vivanda’s weekend brunch was good. It was certainly a memorable one, and I think worth trying (especially if you have any interest in potatoes whatsoever), but it was a case of the sides/appetizer carrying the main, and another example of why you should ne
Three days later, I’m still not sure if Atelier Vivanda’s [AV] weekend brunch was good. It was certainly a memorable one, and I think worth trying (especially if you have any interest in potatoes whatsoever), but it was a case of the sides/appetizer carrying the main, and another example of why you should never order chicken at a steak restaurant.
AV, the sister restaurant to Akrame (the Michelin-starred fine dining joint), focuses on meat, and judging by the brunch offerings, basically just beef. I usually don’t review brunches because they’re not always great indications of the normal meals, but since steak and the insane potato sides are offered during all meals; why not. One shout-out for the service; the restaurant was less than half-full but still, this was the first free-flow brunch where I didn’t have to ask for a top-up of drinks even once. No one had an empty glass for more than 10 seconds, remarkable.
Brunch is split into four rounds,
1)A sharing platter for the table
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a.Pastries including croissants (butter and chocolate), danishes and other buttery delights I didn’t really try. Friends said everything was good
b.Grapefruit/green apple salad – refreshing and much-needed
c.Pork Rillettes - delicious with their homemade bread
d.Shaved 24 month Comte - aged Comte killer as usual. The shaving really works; magnifies the flavour of the cheese, and keeps it light
e.Bowl of scrambled eggs – I assume this was half eggs and half butter because these were pretty tasty. Fluffy and a bit runny, a warm accompaniment to all the bread
2)A main course – this is my main complaint with the meal – for the HKD 298 standard price you only get to choose between:
a.Fish of the day (Seabream that day)
b.Roast Chicken Thigh
c.Burger
For an extra 100 hkd you can choose between 2 cuts of steak (Flank and Persille (a less fatty part)). I know this might be yelling at the moon considering AV's logo is a cow, but if you don’t eat beef, these choices are pretty crummy… where is the pork / duck / lamb? Anyway, I got the chicken in the end, and it was fine. It was cooked well but without any sauce or garnish - dramatically undramatic. Steak was similarly simple, but decent steak should be left alone of course (I heard the steaks were both good). No one ordered the burger or fish.
3)AYCE sides including:
a.Gratin Dauphinois (potato slices in light cream sauce baked with cheese)
b.Sauteed Potatoes (skin-on and perfect)
c.Mashed Potatoes (never have liked mash but they were good)
d. Salad with Vinaigrette (Mustard-based?)
e. Pommes Galette (calling them French hash browns doesn’t do them justice)
f.Pommes Dauphines (deep-fried fluffy potato balls) If you don’t like potatoes, you will after this. In a shocking twist, the best part of this meal was the incredible potato sides, which are all-you-can-eat and you’ll be glad they are. I’d never tried (e) and (f) and they were awesome – I loved the Pomme Galette (e) in particular: essentially hash browns I guess, but the shredded potatoes are cooked just enough so that each strand retains crispness and distinctiveness, which along with the onions, keep it from being just a standard mashed hash brown - wonderful texture. The potato gratin (a) is the showstopper as expected; it arrives bubbling in a hot plate, with burnt cheese on top and lusciously creamy potato slices inside. Everything is as good as it sounds.
4. Dessert
Sorry, i just have a picture of the creme brulee (which was good) but you get a choice of 3-4 (they didn't offer the 4th that day), and they were all fine i think. I was so full of potato, i didn't pay much attention to what they offered/what we ordered.
Overall, I’m sure the steak people loved the whole brunch, and apart from my dullllll chicken main, I've decided I did too (the HKD150 Cava free flow helps). The starter plate was fun and those potatoes are simply unforgettable. If you eat beef and you like carbs, the brunch at Atelier Vivanda is definitely worth a shot.
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