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2023-09-24
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In June I visited Kontrasto in Central and had enjoyed some really amazing Italian cuisine. It was a big surprise when I later found that the restaurant was closed, despite only having opened for a few months. So, when I received Chef Fabiano’s message a few weeks back knowing he has started again in ICC, I come to visit him with great anticipation, at his restaurant Perla.Coming to the top floor of ICC, the staff greets us warmly and shows us to the table, which looks out towards the Stonecutte
Coming to the top floor of ICC, the staff greets us warmly and shows us to the table, which looks out towards the Stonecutters Island, Tsing Yi, and Tsing Ma Bridge. The sea view, with the sky gradually turning from orange to dusk, and the sprinkle of lights of the city when it is totally dark, gives us a sense of warmth and belonging, reminding us once again how beautiful our home Hong Kong is.In fact, I have been to the same location a year before, when it was also an Italian restaurant called Radical Chic. It still looks familiar, with the same layout, and the same white wall and ceiling giving a clean, chic, and high-end dining ambience. But the tables are now more sparsely separated, providing diners good privacy and comfort to enjoy, in contrast to the more crowded setting in Kontrasto.
Chef Fabiano has arranged his 8-Course Signature Degustation Menu ($2,880) for us, including 8-glass wine pairing ($980). The Breadbasket is first served, containing Rye Potato Bread, Focaccia with olives and sun-dried tomatoes, Pane Carasau with sea salt, and an interesting Spicy Pane. To pair with the bread there are also choices of olive oils, and I have picked the Tuscany which is more on the fruity aromas.To pair with the amuse bouche and the first course, the sommelier has selected Champagne Lallier Brut R.016 NV, which has good citrus and green apple, with almond and some spices. Refreshing and energetic.
The Amuse Bouche contains a number of items. On the first plate is a trio including smoked trout with horseradish, homemade pastry with burrata cheese, minced prawn, dusted with seaweed, as well as puff pastry with cream cheese, thyme, and shiitake mushroom. All three are very delicious, with each piece offering a combination of different flavours and texture. On the golden cube is deep-fried potato with Parma ham, with the latter adding savoury flavours to the milder potato which has a nice crisp surface but soft interior. Another nice starter.
Finally, it is the fun and creative Fish Bone Cracker, with the ‘eye’ being homemade butter and salmon roe, cleverly giving life to the fish bone in appearance but also providing enrichment in umami and flavours.The first course is Cured Striped Jack. The fish comes from Adriatic Sea, with flying fish roes on top. The sauce is a mix of cucumber and green apple, with a bit of horseradish cream added to season. Neat in presentation, the cured fish is flavourful while the roes giving a popping bite, with the sauce enhancing the refreshing taste.
The next wine to pair with the langostino is La Colombera Derthona Timorasso 2020, from Colli Tortonesi in Italy. The wine has been aged on lees for 9 months, with delicate fruity and floral notes, crisp acidity and nice yellow peach characters.The second course is Langostino, with the chef chargrilling the fresh and fleshy langostino from Adriatic Sea, and putting some caviar and seaweed on the side, together with a sauce made from sweet corn. The sweetness of the prawn is amazing, with the caviar further adding umami to the dish. The sauce is surprisingly delicate and does not dominate the langostino. One of my favourites in the evening.
The next wine is Vie di Romans Dessimis Pinot Grigio 2021, from Friuli Isonzo. The wine has a pinkish tinge, with nice floral, peach and citrus notes. The creamy texture is also good match with seafood soup.The third course is Aquarium Soup, with the fish soup mixed with saffron to give its unique fragrance to the rich flavours of the sea. The mixed seafood in the soup includes sea bream, Sicily prawns, mussels, and clams, with a dressing of parsley oil. Good in taste, I guess the chef made the soup a bit cooler in order not to overcook the delicate seafood but I would prefer the soup temperature to be hotter personally.
The next wine is Capezzana Conte Contini Bonacossi Trebbiano 2019, from Tuscany, with a nice aromatic nose, showing nice floral with also almond and some vanilla. A refreshing wine that goes well with the tomato sauce in the coming lobster pasta.The fourth course is Mafalde, a type of pasta that looks like long and wide flat ribbon. The pasta is cooked with the essence of the lobster to al dente texture, and accompany with the lobster tail, yellow tomato sauce, and basil. The lobster is very fresh, with a firm texture and great umami taste. The sauce helps to balance with acidity, and the pasta is just perfect on the bite.
The next wine to pair with the crab meat is Alois Lageder Am Sand Gewurztraminer 2019, from Alto Adige in northern Italy. With intense aromatics, there are lots of tropical fruits with passionfruit particularly prominent, as well as an underlying spiciness.The fifth course is Orzo, a thin, oval, rice-shaped pasta made from semolina, giving a chewier bite. On the bottom is Alaskan king crab meat, with a black garlic puree and lemon gel providing further contrast in flavours but interestingly harmonious when mixed together. Another creative dish showcasing the expertise Chef Fabiano has on pasta.
The next wine to pair with the red prawn is Maso Cantanghel Vigna Cantanghel Pinot Nero 2019, from Frentino in Italy. With a beautiful ruby colour, the wine has sweet raspberry and redcurrant characters that is juicy and elegant.The sixth course is Carabineros Red Prawn, with the chef charcoal grilling the prawn. Separating the head from the body, the prawn essence pours out, and dipping with bread it is truly delicious in taste. The prawn itself is nice too, and on the side is an Italian-style kimchi, with different colourful dressings made from black garlic, tomato, egg yolk and green peas.
There is also a prawn toast provided to soak up the prawn essence, with some minced prawn meat on top to give an extra layer of texture and umami to the toast. Truly wonderful.The next wine to pair with the beef is Cascina Luisin Barbaresco Rabaja 2018. The more full-bodied and powerful red wine is a good match with the beef, with bright red and black fruit jumping out, roses and some mushroom, and some mineral and sweet spices. The good tannin is also perfect with the meat.
The seventh course is Kuromame A5 Wagyu. The chef has selected the cut with the good balance of fatty and lean meat, perfectly grilled to medium rare, with the surface charred and caramelized, while the inside juicy and soft. On the side is wild mushroom, cooked with onion and a jus reduction. Super delicious and this is one of the best dishes on the night in my opinion.Chef Fabiano then comes out from the kitchen, bringing us each a cone of Melon Gelato. Serving as a palate cleanser before transitioning to dessert, the gelato is soft, with good flavours of melon but not too sweet.
The final wine to pair with the dessert is Ca’ D’Gal Lumine Moscato d’Asti 2021. The lightly sweet wine is refreshing, with lots of white flowers, fresh herbs of sage and rosemary, and fruity quince and peach wrapping the palate nicely.The eighth course is Figs & Grape Cloud. On the bottom is a layer of Italian meringue, follow by some vanilla chantilly cream, with the figs and grapes decorating on top. Then some cold-pressed grape juice is poured in the middle, adding some natural sweetness to the whole enjoyment. Artistically beautiful and very delicious.
The Petits Fours contains lychee dessert made to resemble two leaves with cream in between, a lemon tart with some edible silver on top, pistachio cake with cream, and chocolate tiramisu. A sweet ending to a wonderful meal.Service is very good, with the staff explaining in details the dishes so we can better appreciate the ingredients and how the chef has prepared the dishes. We also have a good chat with Chef Fabiano after the meal, as he is available having finished all orders, to know his stories and time in HK. I am very grateful too that he has invited us as his guest this time. More a reason to return, as I also tell him I want to learn his signature Virtu pasta.
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