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2021-11-15
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It's always a trial and error visiting restaurants with Michelin blessing since quite a number of them are overrated. During each visit, I have to manage the expectation instead of getting overwhelmed. I have read a lot of good reviews about Écriture and there we go. Then, we were also here for the white truffle (first time not at Bombana). The tasting menu has a couple of add-ons and my advice is that you can stick with the original menu without paying extra. Here comes my favorite of the night
Here comes my favorite of the night: the appetizers. All of them are interestingly impressive and delectable.
- Pomme Dauphine (crispy potato puff) with horseradish cream & caviar
- Lamb sweetbread nuggets...I am not a lamb fan yet this one is easy to eat without a strong scent of the lamb
- Bone marrow brioche french toast
- Pumpkin tart
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Iwashi - sardine fish in persimmon, bergamot with kobocha and hyssop bouillon, not bad.
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I wanna highlight one of the appetizers separately since this is the only dish that wow me at the dinner - "Yakitori of Mont Saint Michel Mussels". The way how they presented it and "smoked" it right at your table created the excitement. The mussels are very juicy and tender, I wish I could have another set
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Ebisu Oyster - the staff showed us the main ingredients of beef ham and tonburi (from plant and people used to call it "field caviar") before serving the dish. A refreshing dish as the mixture of ingredients and seasoning really enhanced the taste.
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We took the add-on for the Alba white truffle with the pumpkin tortellini. As usual, the white truffle is shaved at the table but to my surprise, I didn't catch the smell of it at all. The pumpkin was so sweet that I couldn't really taste the white truffle. Given the charge of $880/pax, it's a hit and miss.
$880
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Akamutsu - another fish dish with rosy sea bass wrapped in kombu with sake over the hot stones
I really enjoyed watching the chef finished up the dish at the table. I am a kombu lover and thought a piece of kombu will be served with the fish and I was wrong, only the fish on the plate. The meat of the Akamutsu is firm whilst the taste is on the light side, personally I like the Iwashi dish better with its lingering taste.
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The Bresse Chicken is the main course and served in 3 ways: grilled thigh, chicken rice and soup dumpling (xiao long bao)
The chicken was cooked whole in sourdough which is very interesting and the chef just did a demonstration to show us the chicken sealed inside. However, they didn't explain the purpose of doing so and I am also concerned about the sourdough after it had been cut opened...where did it go? How many sourdough had been wasted? Could the bread be served as well? For this main course, each diner will have a portion of roughly a quarter of the chicken. In general, the 3 chicken dishes are good, just that the xiao lung bao is a bit dry.
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Miyazaki Wagyu
Medium rare charcoal grilled wagyu with smoked caviar, the meat just melted in the mouth yet with texture. Just be reminded that there's an additional charge of $788 to go with this main course and the portion is small.
$788
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You will love this restaurant if you are a big fan of dessert since they provided us with "4-course" dessert and we were stuffed! We didn't expect the surprise of a chocolate mousse cake hidden in the "book" that had been idling on the table whole night long. We just thought this "book" was one of the decoration on the table LOL.
- Pear pouched in honey + tonka crisps and pear sorbet
- Buckwheat, mousse, chocolate sorbet
- Rich Chocolate mousse cake
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To sum up, Écriture is a small restaurant with contemporary decor. The dining experience is a food journey filled with fun which reminds me of Madison Eleven in NYC. All the dishes are good without doubt but they didn't really stun me. The staff are friendly and helpful, however, the junior ones are not "storytellers" which they can't really walk you through the journey.
Btw, one highlight of the meal: you can choose your own knife.
题外话/补充资料:
Corkage fee: $800/750ml and this will be waived if you buy a bottle of wine from them
White truffle: a bit disappointed and not worth it with additional $880 per pax, better go somewhere else
(以上食记乃用户个人意见 , 并不代表OpenRice之观点。)
张贴