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招牌菜
六月七日 (星期五)开心周五，是日来到Dining Concept旗下的LARIS提起LARIS这名字，好们有点似曾相识再在前加上David，大家就好像恍然大悟一样无错，这里就是澳洲名厨David Laris在港开设的高级餐厅Laris幼时居于希腊，后来回到澳洲，发现自己喜爱烹调，于是就开始接受正统的法国菜厨艺训练之后他更游走世界各地，眼界亦大眼，其烹调风格亦多变而多样化辗转来到香港，在这里开设此餐厅的前身LARIS Contemporary Dining，是一高价位之餐厅后来大厨想更多人可以品尝到其饮食风格，决定改革，转为较平民化两道菜的午市套餐HK$138，是中环苏豪区内的中位价加上名厨David Laris的名气，这个价钱绝对是抵吃头盘有三款，可选是日餐汤,沙律或是白酒煮青口三人同时也对青口感兴趣白酒青口很多西餐厅也会供应，但放得如此美观实在少见来自澳洲青口，每只也是胀卜卜配以白酒来煮，鲜味突出，浓度又没盖过青口的鲜甜青口肉汁丰富，汁充满白酒芳香，用来沾面包吃，美味！David 设计的fusion菜一直也享负盛名，见到餐牌的这客吞拿鱼乌冬，当然也要一试黄鳍吞拿鱼的外层沾上芝麻后微微香煎，内里仍然保持鲜活状态鱼厚身且切好几片，美味丰腴乌冬粗身弹牙，汤底中配以大量蔬菜，挺鲜嫩爽口所说的Sous-vide，是指真空低温烹调 来自澳洲的牛扒，肉呈血红色，但不见半点血水，厨师功架十足入口肉质烟韧细致，完全没筋性，牛味香浓，肉汁丰润不要错过占上半碟的薯蓉，入口香滑又有粒粒薯蓉口感，甜美可口还有三粒带微酸的车厘茄，爽口多汁，吃完牛肉才吃，感觉就更清新!两道菜的午餐后，大家仍是意犹未尽，加多四十元来享用一客精致甜品Graham cracker sable with blowtorched marshmallow and dehydrated chocolate mousse这里的甜品绝不马虎了事，也明显花个心思来设计的底层是以朱古力制成的饼底，中间是绵花糖做成的长方形蛋糕，上面则是朱古力雪糕及威化饼绵花糖表面稍微烘热，外层结实，内里却是软绵绵，口感丰富底部香脆的饼底，沾上浓郁的朱古力酱，多重味觉享受，朱古力迷不要错过呀!据知，店方会定期更换餐牌，冒求以最时令菜式给客人品尝再来，未知是否会有另一番精彩呢?
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A promising menu and resounding Time Out review got us excited about visiting Laris. Especially as we had good memories of 3 on the Bund in Shanghai.The staff desperately tried to push the tasting menu, which we decided against, as there were only heavy red meat options for main courses and no leeway to change to another dish. The starters arrived while we were still drinking our champagne – a little quick. The ocean trout tataki with slow cooked egg, XO sauce and keta caviar came beautifully presented. The trout and the slow cooked egg were perfectly executed and the caviar delightful, however the dried shrimp in the XO sauce overpowered the rest of the dish, a shame as it killed it.Thankfully the main courses followed at a better pace. The Peter’s farm veal loin with herb and Parmesan crust, carrot, confit potatoes and garlic jus had great potential, especially as the quality of the meat was second to none. However, the dish fell down on execution – the veal was served in one piece (not sliced as is usual). It was pink at the extremities and well done inside. Despite its mouth-watering description, the rest of the dish completely lacked flavour. The brussel sprout & bacon side dish was perfect. The highlight of the meal was definitely the Carrot cake, coffee crumble, chocolate ganache – perfect execution and sumptuous taste, a great way to finish a meal that wasn’t quite up to expectations!
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看到其他食家的照片，这天特意跟友人来试试这家餐厅。云石厨房采取开放式，让人感觉简洁干净。用餐地方则是传统Dining的微暗灯光，配上白台布和花瓶，有简约高贵之意。本来对于环境没有什么可挑剔，但坐著坐著到高峰时期(也才8成满左右)，整家餐厅好像变成街市，环看四周，每个人都是西装友，说话都蛮斯文的，但不知为何就是很吵杂，坐到后来我们差不多是用逃走来形容，反正整体感觉不算舒服。说回食物，看了一下Set Lunch Menu，选择还不错，我跟友人就一人叫了一个Set。Starter个人非常喜欢面包，以致对于餐前面包也甚有要求，看过之前食家的照片，本来蛮有期待的，结果上来只有薄薄一片，有点小失望。面包有点冷掉，有点脆又有点硬，而且牛油在这种面包上也起不了什么作用。友人要了Daily Soup，当日是Mushroom Cream Soup (8/10)，以茶壶上，店员会在你面前倒出来，倒出来的瞬间我也闻到蘑菇味四溢，只轻尝了一口，入口倒没有闻起来香，但也算不错。我则要了Duck rillette with blueberry lavender compote (6.5/10)。看名字觉得很漂亮，上桌卖相也不俗，但味道就一般了。Duck rillette的口感就像干的罐头吞拿鱼，Duck的元素恕我完全吃不出来，而且蓝莓跟薰衣草的用法也不见得对整体味道有提升，反而旁边的baby spinach新鲜可口。MainsBraised short rib with pistachio crust served with mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables (8/10)我选的主菜。通常short rib都会come without bone, 意外地这个有。颜色偏深啡色, 配上颜色鲜艳的车厘茄跟露笋,视觉反差不俗, 味道亦感觉新鲜。酱汁虽然深色但不至于太咸, 其实颇鲜味, 值得一赞! 再尝一口薯蓉, 薯蓉吸收了酱汁, 而且薯仔本身应该很甜, 配上酱汁真的非常美味, 比rib更甚。也许牛肋骨骨头比肉还多, 纵使牛肋骨炆得软腍, 亦入味, 还是有那么一点遗憾。House made hand cut fettuccini with little neck clams and tiger prawns in a white wine cream sauce (7/10)友人的选的这道主菜, 属大路安全之选, 但注意, 吃不多的朋友可能还好, 女性胃口属中间或以上的, 点这个你一定不够饱。fettuccini口感偏硬, 吸收不多white wine cream sauce。酱汁本身虽稠但不够浓, 白酒元素是完全没吃出来。跟上的海鲜也没啥特别, 所谓虎虾也只是一般的大小, 味道尚算新鲜。蚬亦是差不多情况而未见突出, 导致整体只属平平。DessertBanana & White Chocolate Mousse Tart (2/10)整餐下来最惨烈的一环。首先卖相可谓极之普通, 再来吃的时候我还以为来错order - 完全吃不出banana跟white chocolate的味道!!! 好吧我骗人, banana味是有那么一点, 但实在是只有那么一点。那个所谓mousse更像cream, 味道不对办, 跟碟上的水果跟那pat朱古力酱更是不搭!!! tart身尚可接受, 但只属一般。作为是日甜点, 要我另加$40来一客实在是让我有点后悔。House made ice-cream & sorbets (5/10)一球花生酱雪糕加一球raspberry sorbert, 上桌卖相普通, 以为起码会有几粒水果伴碟或者有些朱古力画绘装饰, 结果什么都没有, 显得有点凋零。raspberry sorbert激酸, 能刺激大脑那种, 视酸如命的你会喜欢。花生酱雪糕本人觉得不太像花生酱, 未能触动味蕾。除了食物质素和环境之外, 服务亦要有所注意。当天其实不是full house, 开始时还好, 但到我们用完starter之后, 隔了差不多8-10分钟都没有人来收碟, fine dine地方此种情况实属少见 (虽然是lunch), 而且有个别waiter/waitress当时是没事做的! 而且隔壁桌比我们晚下order, 他们的主菜亦比我们的早到至少10分钟 (我们等了很久的mains)!!! 这个店方要多注意了。Just in case the shop owner/PR can't read Chinese, would like to make a note here in regards to the service. At the beginning it's alright, but after the starter it became worse. It was only about half full at that moment, some of the individual waiter/waitress had nothing to do, but no one bother to collect the empty plates from our table. It's quite unusual in a fine dine place like this thou it was only lunch time. Also, we made the order even before the desk next to us arrived, but their mains came earlier than us!!!
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我向来都很喜欢Dining Concepts的餐厅，最近他们和澳洲籍名厨David Laris合作在云咸街开了一间叫Laris的餐厅，主要供应现代澳洲及地中海料理。室内装修挺豪华，有皮椅和一个大云石厨房台面，但空间细小，觉得有点逼。食物方面，菜式有创意，味道都可以，但份量很少，我吃了三道菜也不太够饱。晚餐有一个8道菜的Tasting Menu，每位$788，听朋友说份量也不是太大。Dining Concepts is well-known for their brilliant collaborations with celebrity chefs, such Vi Cool with Sergi Arola, Lupa and Carnevino with Mario Batali and Il Molo with Michael White. Their latest venture, located in the prime location of Wyndham Street, is a partnership with David Laris, an Australian chef and the brains behind many renowned restaurants in Shanghai, including Twelve Chairs, The Fat Olive and The Purple Onion.Laris is David's first foray into the Hong Kong dining scene, and with his Australian and Greek heritage he has created a modern menu incorporating Australian and Mediterranean flavours. The restaurant is bright and luxurious, with round-backed seats, a marble kitchen countertop and a large glass window overlooking the Old Central Police Station. The staff were knowledgeable and helpful, but the tables were placed too closely together for such an upscale restaurant. I went there for lunch with two colleagues, and tried their set lunch at $138 for 2 courses and $178 for 3 courses. The price is quite reasonable for a high-end restaurant in Central, but the portions were not robust. A few of my friends tried the 8-course tasting menu for dinner at $788 per person, but apparently the portions verged on the ungenerous too.A warm, crispy baguette was served, and the garlic butter spread was moreish.(1) The Leek tart with brie cheese served with rocket salad and aged balsamic toffee arrived first, and it was alluring, with the meltingly smooth brie cheese adding richness to the warm leek tart.(2) The Hand cut New Zealand ocean beef tartar with crostini, apple mustard and slow cooked egg had a serene presentation, but tasted rather ordinary. Even though the translucent slow cooked egg looked beautiful, the apple mustard was too mild to lift the flavours of the tartare; this dish needed a bit more zing.(3) The New Zealand Grass fed burger, Fontina cheese and truffle aioli served with potato croquettes followed. We were told that it was cooked to medium rare, but it was actually more like medium. The beef patty was thick and sizeable, and the burger was hearty and satisfying. The potato croquettes (not chips) were gorgeous - crunchy on the surface and powdery and fluffy in the middle, it was just the perfect companion for the burger.(4) The Jumbo lump crab cake with sweet corn puree and fresh made coleslaw was also outstanding. Large, fresh strands of crab meat filled the crab cake, and the coleslaw on the side was crunchy and refreshing.(5) Lastly, I also enjoyed the House made green pea and ricotta ravioli with sage and brown butter sauce. The ravioli was appropriately al dente, and the green pea and ricotta filling was smooth and sensuous. The brown butter sauce, though a little heavy, tasted delicious, and the shaved Parmesan cheese and the cherry tomatoes added a variety of flavours to the pasta.(6) We tried the Blood orange panacotta with orange jelly and almond crumble for dessert. While the taste of blood orange was fresh and invigorating, and the orange jelly added a bright citrus note, the panacotta was not creamy or rich enough to counteract the dessert's fruity flavours. The execution of some of the dishes could be fine-tuned, and the small portions and crammed seating may cast doubt on whether the prices could be justified. Having said that, the contemporary menu was playful and inspiring, and all in all, Laris is a sophisticated restaurant and a welcomed addition to Wyndham Street.
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上一次到fiat caffe试吃的时候，负责人曾经提过国际名厨 David Laris 是在那边担任顾问，而他刚刚在中环开了一家新餐厅，既然我们对fiat的食物都颇满意，所以松弛就说过不如找天去试试看。其实事隔都差不多个几月，这个周末午餐想吃西餐，我也就终于记起了要去这家餐厅了。周末的午餐时段客人不多，连我们在内，只有四台客。餐厅的装修很漂亮，怀旧风格中又带点时尚感，深啡色的半圆皮椅和墙身配搭圆球型的玻璃吊灯，特大玻璃窗透入阳光，感觉柔和舒适。云石台面的开放式厨房，可以看著厨师们在准备食物，满足了视觉享受。午市套餐价钱非常相宜，两道菜才$138，想吃甜品的话可以另加$40。头盘分别有是日餐汤，牛肉tartar和brie cheese tart，因为我们对当日的薯仔汤没太大与趣，所以就选了余下两款。主菜同样是三选一，我点了crab cake，而松弛就要了medium rare的burger；两款甜品只有一款合心水，所以就只加了一份而已。首先送上来的是面包，长型两头尖的面包微暖，有点硬，我比较喜欢软身的面包，不过这个也不算差。牛油有两款，一款是带有少许蒜味的软身牛油，另一款既硬身的无盐牛油，既然面包都那么硬，与软身的牛油较配。Hand Cut New Zealand ocean beef tartar with corstini, apple mustard and slow cooked egg。牛肉tartar上面放在一只slow cook蛋，卖相漂亮，旁边有几块小的脆多士和特制的苹果芥末酱汁。把蛋汁和牛肉充分搅拌，牛肉的绵软与蛋香结合，是很不错的牛肉tartar，另外酱汁也是一大亮点，甜甜的但芥末味不会太抢，各方面都配搭得很好。Leek tart with brie cheese served with rocket salad and aged balsamic toffee。新鲜焗好的Leek芝士挞，传来阵阵的芝士和批底的香味，批底干身松化，中间的brie cheese呈半溶状态，浓郁的芝士味在口里扩散，超好吃的呢。伴碟的车厘茄和火箭菜沙律，醮著一些黑醋汁一起吃，在吃完芝士批后刚好可以中和一下。Jumbo lump crab cake with sweet corn puree and fresh made cloeslaw。煎成金黄色的crab cake切开中间，满满的蟹肉，薯蓉的部份很少，因为之前吃过一些蟹饼里面一半是薯蓉一半是蟹肉，所以看著就已经忍不住要赞。蟹肉很鲜味，每一口都尝到丝丝蟹肉，很豪华的感觉，下面垫著的是甜粟米蓉，吃罢很满足。蟹饼份量不少，所以伴边的菜丝沙律发挥了最大的消滞作用，椰菜丝和甘笋丝所做的菜丝沙律，酸酸的，清新爽脆，再吃多件蟹饼也可以。New Zealand Grass fed burger, Fonitna cheese and truffle aioli served with potato croquettes。绝不欺场的burger，汉堡肉很厚，做到medium rare的效果，汉堡肉粉嫰多汁，带极重的炭烤香味，只是简简单单的夹著生菜与蕃茄，和软熟的面包，已经好好吃了。通常配burger吃的不是薯条就是沙律，这里的薯条跟在外面吃到的不同，外层脆口，但中间软得像薯蓉，醮著自家制的，甜味较重的浓浓蕃茄酱，很不错呢，只是选薯味浓一点的薯仔来做就更好了。其实单点甜品还有几款，不过以套餐价加$40换的就只有两款，而我们选的blood orange panacotta wirh orange jelly and almond crumble。半球体的panna cotta在上面，blood orange做的果冻层在底部，味道与口感都不像是panna cotta，口感粗糙，像有些颗粒还未溶掉似的，味道也不像是云呢拿口味，反而像是yoghurt，相比起头盘与主菜，甜品较为失色。好像也有一阵子没有吃到如此满意的西餐，头盘和甜品都很好，只是甜品稍为失手，而且个价钱在中环来说是很便宜的了。整个用餐的经验都不错，侍应生不算亲切但都有礼貌，菜式上桌时也有主动为我们介绍。听说这里午市餐牌也经常转换的，有机会一定会再来试试David Laris 的其他菜式呢。
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