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2010-02-04
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Ever since I repatrioted to HK, one of the most peculiar things I found with Roast Specialty Shops is that they can be quite inconsistent in terms of cooking. It doesn't apply much to the Roasts from Proper Cantonese Restaurants, where the end results might still vary between +/- 10-20% yes but fall within normal deviation. At the Roast Specialty shops like here, however, it tends to vary a little bit more, so you need to develop a 6th sense to know when they are better. Having walked pass by
Having walked pass by this shop hundreds of times but only eaten here once before nearly a year ago, seeing Anthony Bourdain has reviewed here too, I would say for the majoritive of times the Char Siu here seems not very appealing, as visually you can tell its dry on the whole piece of meat, lacking juiciness, marination or malty glaze. You already know the Roasting Chef didn't do a good job on it that day. 很考功夫, 跑完马隔日最不适宜博, 哈！ On this particular day however, I became interested to try again because I could 'visually tell' that around 30-40% of the many pieces of hanging Char Sius tonight seemed quite good - SO IT WAS WORTH A GAMBLE!
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*ROASTED PORK AND CHAR-SIU with RICE -*
- This shop I think is mostly known for their Suckling Pig, which on my previous visit was good but lacking that special aroma in the skin - don't know how to describe it.
- The Char-siu tonight consisted of 2 parts - a few pieces from the fatter area, a few pieces from the leaner areas. This is expected in most roast shops in fact, just like many Beef Brisket places give u a bit of each cut nowadays. This night's one was pretty good. The marination was a bit weak, but the pork was oh-so tender even with the leanest muscle pieces and slightly charry and glazed in taste! Yum! The fatty char-siu part however was a bit too fat for my liking! I actually wanted to buy another whole piece for take-away an hour later, but surprisingly, the take-away customers have already picked the best looking pieces and the ones left were the bad batches from today's roasting batch
- The Roast Pork on the other hand, is a nightmare to rate fairly: F.Y.I., a normal Roast Pork rice dish won't give u the better cuts such as the 骨腩位 which is more evenly marbled and also has absorbed all the marination plus its own 'pork oil' essence during the roasting process, due to the way the pig is usually roasted upside down with the head pointing towards the floor. This cut is usually more expensive. You can actually order the 骨腩位 specifically here on your rice dish (which costs more than double @ $65) or at 得龙 which also carries this better part in one of their lunch rice dishes! Having said that, my mixed roasts dish is only $30 so its a given I was given the end bits here and there, unlike the Char Siu since that is only ever roasted from within 1 muscle anyway. My off-bits of Roasted Pork were actually very flavourful and tender despite being very lean, it was easily better than a lot of old school places such as: http://www.openrice.com/restaurant/sr2.htm?shopid=5327 , which they have really bad char siu too despite using Charcoal grilling.
On the other hand, my roast pork on this occasion had little charred or charcoal taste so I presume its not charcoal roasted. The Pork Crackling was also downright poor, it was not crackly at all but flappy which defeats the purpose of eating the Skin part of the Roast Pork.
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OVERALL - I think this shop, WHEN you're lucky to eat there on the odd good occasion, can be quite good and won't lose to other famous shops. By my judgment however, the Char Siu here is probably even less consistent in quality than 再兴, but on a very good day and picking the very best pieces, I think the potential here is higher as they even managed to make the leaner part tasty.
Only This Particular Meal = mid '4', except Roast Pork skin was crappy!
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张贴
