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2012-09-04
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Have been here quite a few times. Although there could be the occasional slip, there is no doubt GOLD by Harlan Goldstein remains one of the better consistent performers in Hong Kong, when it comes to modern Italian food. In fact, as much as I am also a supporter of Chef Bombana at Michelin 3 Starred 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo, I honestly think GOLD is really on the same level in terms of dining, it just really depends on the minor points and the individual criterias..Slow Cooked Italian Octop
Slow Cooked Italian Octopus, Fennel, Olives, Smoked onions and Melitzanosalata -This relatively new dish, with a bottom of Melitzanosalata was based on eggplants and tasted almost like a slightly smoky Baba Ghanoush. What was rather unexpected was the slow cooked Octopus itself, which seemed to be the most smoky component of them all, I suspect this was achieved with a smoke gun prior to serving as the dish tasted more smoky from the top to the bottom. The fennel and olives made this a very Mediterranean dish.. Texture wise it was also perfect on this visit. ~ 5/5
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Fresh Heirloom Tomatoes, Burrata cheese, Black figs, Ice-plant and Aged balsamic -Have had this similar dish with slightly different configuration a few times, but this time adding an Ice Plant, which was younger than the normal Japanese versions and probably more French style. The Burrata doesn't always work here - sometimes it is too hard, sometimes it is too torn up into pieces. But luckily tonight's version was mozzarella like in taste and also decent in the runny state. The figs and some very good heirloom DNA tomatoes was also good. After having the same or slightly evolved dish over a few visits, this was the most satisfying of them all. Let's hope it wasn't a fluke! ~ 4.5/5
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Black truffle Tagliolini, French Porcini, Chanterelle, Blue foot mushrooms, and Smoked Slow-cooked Egg -This was exxy but was more than decent. The mushrooms taste wasn't out of this world great especially when incorporating French Porcini and also some chanterelly. The Tagliolini was a little too sticky, but it wasn't too soft at all. The dish can't be faulted at all in terms of execution, but thinking back the mushrooms aroma and flavour can potentially be stronger too. ~ 4/5
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Spinobello Pasta, Spanish Red prawns in Sakura Shrimp Sauce with Shaved Bottarga di Muggine -My 2nd time only trying this. The last time was not bad, but this time it was really good with a strong Japanese shrimps based sauce and the Red prawns this time was more fresh as well in texture. The shaved bottarga flavour was also definitely there, this time with a less garlicky influence. Overall, a really strong dish and definitely worth the $420 commanded. Especially considering that most restaurants give you one instead of 2 Red Prawns, which by itself is worth nearly $100 on cost. ~ 4.5/5
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Lobster Pasta - Spaghetti, Napoli Tomatoes, Fresh Herbs, Crispy Garlic -I had this as my main by myself (but this photo was from the 2nd last visit as I forgot to take a photo this time). Compared to the past, I think this dish has lost out a little on two fronts. The Crustacean Shell of the lobsters used to be grilled to be more charred-aromatic. 2ndly the base tomato and crab roe sauce used to be slightly more crustacean stronger, although this time it still had plenty of crab roes within too! A perennial favourite here. Wish they could be back to the best of the higher standards. The worst time we had this was when they de-shelled it for us for sharing, albeit with good intents. ~ 4/5
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Slow-cooked Colorado Lamb Ribs, Polenta, Iberico ham & Lemon and Fava beans -This looked a generous portion and is a newish dish. I didn't try this so no comment. Apparently, this looked and tasted good enough - but wasn't as wobbly good and tender as the 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo one. But the recipe combination of this dish sounded more awesome indeed. May be they could fine-tune it with better slow cooking techniques then.. ?
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Tasmanian Baby Beef Chop, Porcini Mushrooms, Smoked Cheese and Roasted Garlic Sauce -At $388 I guess this is ok in proportion. Meat seems to cost a lot in Hong Kong for some reason anyway, not that it deserves to be served as charged. Didn't get to try this out but apparently it was decent. Will be back to try this soon.
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Black cherry and Nut Cannolo, with Mascarpone, Black cherry gelato and Mint -Desserts at GOLD by Harlan's has always been a bit of a weakness. Recipe always sounds more promising than the final taste. I also didn't try this but apparently it was ok-good. But I am on a diet personally, and I have simply had too many ordinary desserts here to be skeptical, despite never having posted about them yet. Let's also hope they have improved in this aspect as well... Afterall most of the Savoury dishes, on different occasions, were really good and at the worse were still deemed acceptable.
张贴
