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2014-04-13
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Decided on a whim to visit Ryugin near the end of the winter season. From the reviews I was expecting a somewhat modern Kaiseki meal but to my surprise most of the meal is mostly very traditional (except a few cantonese twists) and both the ingredients and the execution is comparable to some of the best Kaiseki meals I've had in Japan. The meal started on a high note with in season daikon simmer in a broth that contained mandarin skin, a slight cantonese twist. Adding Uni to any dish can only m
Decided on a whim to visit Ryugin near the end of the winter season. From the reviews I was expecting a somewhat modern Kaiseki meal but to my surprise most of the meal is mostly very traditional (except a few cantonese twists) and both the ingredients and the execution is comparable to some of the best Kaiseki meals I've had in Japan.
The meal started on a high note with in season daikon simmer in a broth that contained mandarin skin, a slight cantonese twist. Adding Uni to any dish can only make the dish better...
The Ankimo and ark shell that followed was also superb. Ms. Nakano explained how this Hokkaido ankimo is their winter specialty, and I couldn't agree more. I actually prefer ankimo (foie of the sea) over actual foie gras because I feel you get all the flavor and texture of foie gras with much less fat.
Moving on to the tofu skin which would be a winter staple in Kaiseki. It has another small Cantonese twist in that it covers a shrimp dumpling. The Ichibandashi broth was very subtle. I think I still need many more years of eating before I could fully appreciate fine dashi.
After a quick sashimi course we move on to the grilled courses, in this case a kinmedai which is grilled to perfection - enticing presentation, crispy skin and tender meat.
Another seafood course followed - the Matsuba crab, a super premium ingredient. It is well executed but I felt it tasted almost identical to a king crab. Maybe my expectations were too high for this inrgedient.
The final savory courses included a Wagyu sirloin and a rice with abalone in seaweed. The highlight was actually the micro potatoes. The rice dish had a great idea, abalone and wakame seaweed, but I felt it is lacking in flavor compared to other simmered rice dishes I've had in Japan. In my opinion abalone is better served alone instead of in a rice dish.
The only "molecular" component of the meal is the dessert, which for the winter is the in season mandarin. I enjoyed the dessert and I think the molecular component added a layer of contrast and complexity (and flair) to the dessert.
The winter kaisekis are always good due to the availability of very premium in season ingredients. The service was top notch, very knowledgeable and passionate. The lacquerware was also exquisite. Overall a great authentic kaiseki meal.
张贴
