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2015-07-02
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7.5/10 plates emptied!MAMA SAN是巴厘島著名餐廳老闆兼大廚Will Meyrick精心締造的主打印尼菜、巴東菜但隱含著整個東南亞特色（俗稱泛亞）的美食精品餐廳。Will是國際聞名的街頭美食大廚，周遊亞洲各國的他曾無數次收到不同地方女性交給他的傳統食譜從而獲得很多地道的烹飪知識和文化。MAMA SAN名字的來源也代表著東南亞各地長久以來經歷的新舊飲食理念碰撞——正如亞洲男權唯尊的俱樂部裡總有一個媽媽桑總管一切一樣。也許也同時反映了亞洲女性地位不高，卻深遠地影響了當地飲食潮流走向的事實。MAMA SAN came all the way from Bali, led by the very charismatic chef, Will Meyrick, who has extensive culinary experience from Sydney to London and all across South East Asia; Carly not only felt the passion and joy dining at MAMA SAN, but a
7.5/10 plates emptied![Written by Gobay in Chinese, Carly in English]
MAMA SAN是巴厘島著名餐廳老闆兼大廚Will Meyrick精心締造的主打印尼菜、巴東菜但隱含著整個東南亞特色（俗稱泛亞）的美食精品餐廳。Will是國際聞名的街頭美食大廚，周遊亞洲各國的他曾無數次收到不同地方女性交給他的傳統食譜從而獲得很多地道的烹飪知識和文化。
MAMA SAN名字的來源也代表著東南亞各地長久以來經歷的新舊飲食理念碰撞——正如亞洲男權唯尊的俱樂部裡總有一個媽媽桑總管一切一樣。也許也同時反映了亞洲女性地位不高，卻深遠地影響了當地飲食潮流走向的事實。MAMA SAN came all the way from Bali, led by the very charismatic chef, Will Meyrick, who has extensive culinary experience from Sydney to London and all across South East Asia; Carly not only felt the passion and joy dining at MAMA SAN, but also quickly realized that it requires creativity, passion and drive for excellence. Carly found Chef Meyrick exceptionally charismatic as she read through his journals on his trips around Bali, Vietnam, Burma, and Madura – his interest in street food showcased how the chef is down-to-earth, happily adventurous who appreciates local culture and habitats, aiming to discover and preserve exotic ways of cooking. Chef Meyrick hopes to capture your hearts by offering the living, breathing and hearty city culture on the table, with a splash and dash of authenticity wrapped in glamor.
Upbeat modern decor, fancy in a fun way, mixed with high stables and stools by the window side will be a perfect spot for drinks, long wooden tables great for gatherings and big group chillouts, sofa corners are best spots for close friends.
除了理念以外，Will對東南亞各地的特色配方和香料的研究和熱愛，鉅細無遺地反映在他的食物裡，在之後介紹的食物裡，你們會感受到一個真正熱愛烹飪和調味的廚師的那份暖人心意，而這份心意更促使了我們的Carly去細讀了他的遊記——這是一個多麼浪漫的『相識相知』的過程！
餐廳裝潢依然是如巴厘島總店一樣的工業倉庫的懷舊風格，墻上最矚目的還是那位風情萬種的上海女性，畫中的她仍是一副羞澀不看顧客的姿態。老實說，她應該不是純華人女性，五官像南亞裔混血兒......好了不說題外話，進入本篇的食物主題——菜單大部分源自Chef Will，但主理香港MAMA SAN的聞說是追隨他近10年盡得真傳的Chef Gede，我們一起來看看他是怎樣揉合東南亞菜和香港人口味的：《Lunch Set》
【Slow cooked pork belly with green papaya som tum and Southern Goan snapper curry with okra fenugreek curry leaves, yoghurt and coconut milk | 慢煮五花腩，襯印度果阿咖哩鯛魚，配青木瓜沙律 | HKD168】Spot on pork belly! Slow cooked till the fat turned succulent juicy, melts in your mouth, with the pork belly dissolving on your palate, crispy on the edges, and mildly sweet seasoned with a caramel glazed skin, we can have one whole plate of this, the pork belly was the REASON why the Gang will come back to MAMA SAN. Fenugreek leaves, wonderful Indian plant commonly used amongst Andhra Brahmin households; goes perfectly well with a simple yellow curry base.
Crucial to Indian culture, remember how in the movie of《Three Idiots》Rajol’s mom was complaining about the prices of Fenugreek leaves been climbing up, then you will realize how these herbs are as vital as cilantro or shallots in Chinese food culture. The mild heat spreads to the tips of your tongue with warmth lingering afterwards, and interestingly it’s good for digestion too! Green papaya was bit too raw but some liked it for its citrusy sauce for starters.
對於好味道的豬腩肉相信大家心裡都有杆稱，推薦本菜給具備「仲有最愛的豬腩肉」情懷的朋友。這道菜雖名為「慢煮」但它成功地只把油脂部分變軟腍，瘦肉的部分竟然是脆韌的，麥芽糖般的微甜夾雜著肉鮮和油脂的甘香散開在口中，這時再加一啖泰國香米飯，實為人生一樂也！慢煮，源自法文Sous Vide，通常指把食物醬料封入真空袋在最適宜該材料的低溫下長時間烹煮，使得食物嫩滑軟腍之餘，還充分吸收醬汁的美味，食材的原味和纖維也不會受到破壞。
這裡的豬腩肉慢煮後拿去煎封四面，大大的增加了口感。青木瓜沙律無甚特別但勝在不太辣，怕辣的食友都可以淺嘗。至於特別的印度果阿咖喱，香港能吃到果阿菜的地方非常少，這也是我們的第一次。果阿在印度南部，曾經有400多年葡萄牙殖民地歷史，它的菜餚揉合了印度菜和葡國菜的特色，而魚肉則幾乎是果阿菜裡靈魂般的存在。
它沒印度咖喱那麼油膩，也沒有葡國咖喱那麼「椰奶濃」，而且辣度很適中，很好的味道。裡面加了秋葵和南印常用的香料Fenugreek leaf即Methi Leaf——香細葉，有很濃的苦味，必須混合其他多種印度香料一起熬煮才能提煉出獨特的果仁香。秋葵是印度咖喱文化非常重要的一環，看過電影《Three Idiots》的食友想必還記得Rajol的母親抱怨秋葵又加價了。正如開篇所說，簡單的一份午市套餐飽含了大廚的心意：西方的慢煮、泰國的青木瓜沙律、南印度的咖喱——而且迎合了港人口味：不太辣，不太油，簡直是時尚的味道。
【Stir fry chicken with chilli garlic long bean baby corn holy basil, jasmine rice runny fried egg and light daikon chicken broth | 辣炒蒜香雞肉粒，配太陽蛋香米飯和清新蘿蔔雞湯 | HKD138】The chicken bits were chopped into bits and stir fried with some very pleasant holy basil, these widely spread basils are proven to be stress relievers, Carly was amazed of how caring MAMA SAN’s menu was to one’s health and mood. The basil leaves tasted rather earthy yet mild in its way, diners who do not fancy heavy exotic spices can certainly opt for this relatively simple and light meal. The fried egg was not so runny, a bit overcooked, jasmine rice was not too pronounced in the pandan-like nutty flavor. This would have been good if only the daikon chicken broth was not so salty.
雞肉切成碎粒夾著新鮮嘎拋（或叫甲拋即Holy Basil）,是典型的泰國菜。嘎拋是比泰式羅勒辣和香的泰國常用香草。泰國嘎拋和前道菜提及的南印香細葉都是對身體很有好處的香辛料。嘎拋在印度也很出名，叫Tulsi,食用或製成茶包飲用可以減壓和抗老化；香細葉Methi則有降膽固醇、降血糖血脂和增強免疫力等功效。雖然太陽蛋不太「糖心」，但我們還是覺得雞肉碎拌香米飯挺美味。至於蘿蔔雞湯就太鹹，原本看到菜單上用「Daikon」即「大根」，日本叫法，湯就會好似日本菜一樣清淡為主，誰知剛好相反！不過，主角夠好，配角我們可以省略不計。
【Crispy salmon with green mango and sweet fish sauce, Cambodian Duck curry with sweet potatoes shallots peanuts | 青芒魚露脆煎三文魚，配柬埔寨式鴨肉番薯咖喱 | HKD138】Never thought sweet potatoes would go well with the yellow/red curry combo! Carly found this curry to be sweeter as the mushy sweet potatoes, shallots and peanuts gave a more nutty touch rather than coconut based flavor to it. Highlight goes to the velvety, tender, flavorsome salmon chunks from the salad, well-seasoned with fish sauce, cooked just on the spot, pink to its core.
薯仔是咖喱的「天下無雙生命伴侶」我們明白，但番薯卻是認真地少見，而且味道還那麼搭！前面的套餐有果阿咖喱，這裡再來柬埔寨咖喱，今次令我們大開眼界、口界！柬埔寨最著名的就是Khmer紅咖喱——高棉紅咖喱。鴨肉、鮮椰汁和Kroeung咖喱醬混合製成，沒有泰國咖喱那麼辣，薑味比較重。鴨肉不會很乾身，花生碎增加了口感之餘還加了些果仁香，而番薯的甜和粉將各種元素很勻稱地綜合在一起，配合尖仔米飯一起食實在不俗！三文魚也是一大亮點：切開三文魚你會發現裡面還有紅色沒有全熟的魚肉！半生熟的炙三文魚肉加上清爽的青芒魚露，非常美味！
【Beetroot salad with paneer and chat masala, cauliflower Sambar curry with dahl eggplant tamarind and fresh Coriander | 甜菜根沙律，配菜花茄子青咖喱 | HKD118】Vegetarian choice! Beetroot salad was rather appetizing and healthy chunks , the green curry was relatively spicy compared to other curry combos.
Take notice of how each lunch item is cooked in a different sauce base, showcasing how diverse and dynamic Southeast Asian herbs and spices can be.
這個是為素食人士準備的：營養方面有甜菜根，菜花，茄子等，這個搭配幾乎可以說是全方位兼顧到人體所需。咖喱比前文提及的都要辣上一點，但幼玉米的甜嫩加上泰式羅勒的香味又中和了部分的辣，整道菜平衡得很好。
【Claypot caramelized snapper with young coconut water black pepper, green mango and thai basil |瓦鍋料理：椰皇水黑椒紅燒鯛魚| HKD238】Ambrosial scent was bursting with flavors as it was served in that hot claypot! Snapper meat was firm and some caramelized ones had relatively hard edges, nonetheless, crunchy in general. Shredded green mango adding a sweet touch, they went a bit heavy on the basil and black pepper, undoubtedly, will need a bowl of rice to go with the thick sauce.
上檯伊始，這道瓦鍋菜就散發出濃郁誘人的香味！魚肉鮮實，某些邊位還微脆，外脆內嫩的口感加上外層微甜的醃汁，青芒絲加入了爽的口感外帶甜酸果香，儘管黑椒和泰式羅勒的味道有些濃重，但這絕對是送飯一流之選。有人問那麼濃的醬汁，清淡的椰皇水就等於白放了。椰皇水味道比普通椰青汁更濃，最重要的是它潤肺清熱，可以平衡青芒和黑椒所帶來的燥——幾乎每道菜我們都能接收到大廚對食客的厚重心意，又是一刻感動的瞬間。【Stir fry pork neck with Bamboo ginger green peppercorns and holy basil | 竹筍青胡椒炒豬頸肉 | HKD198】
Ginger green peppercorns were refreshingly spicy compared to black peppercorns that are often used in western dishes. The pork neck was not overcooked but some did taste coarse on the palate, the abundant portions of holy basil will certainly overwhelm you if you aren't a fan of it.
這味豬頸肉對比其他幾款菜式沒什麼特別之處，儘管運用了比黑胡椒辣度低然而新鮮清香的青胡椒，但豬頸肉稍嫌鈍糙的口感加上與之不是很搭配的過量的Holy basil，整個菜頓時被我們拋「豬」「嘴」後。
【Stir fry chicken with chilli jam, long bean baby corn, galangal chilli and Thai basil | 良薑辣椒豆角炒雞肉 | HKD178】Chili jam was indeed pretty heaty and the chicken was softer and more tender compared to the stir fry pork neck we had. Galangal is a rhizome of plants in the ginger family, for culinary and medical uses originated from Indonesia which makes this another healthy dish served at MAMA SAN.
這道菜味道挺霸道的，也比之前的咖哩要辣，因為有辣椒醬、辣椒和良薑三種味覺嗅覺都具一定辛辣氣息的材料。雞肉比之前說的豬頸肉要柔軟多汁，如果大家有嚐過我們之前寫過的灣仔生記海鮮舫的炒雞球，這個的口感和火候仍是稍遜一籌，儘管味道不錯。良薑又稱高良薑，原產自印尼，在廣東其實非常常見，大家經常吃的鹵水食品，良薑就是主角之一，另外超級市場賣的五香粉的其中一種原料就是良薑粉。它有很霸道的辛辣氣味，可以溫脾祛寒、行氣止痛——反正普通生薑能做的它都能，就是比較橘紅色，味道比較刺激。寫到這裡，Gobay由衷地對Chef Will和Chef Gede有了敬意，開始覺得製作出這樣的菜單的Chef Will簡直是一個「Will長今」——東南亞香辛藥膳菜式的傑出代表，但別忘了，他是一個蘇格蘭人，卻將亞洲香料用得出神入化！
【Dendeng Balado caramelized short rib beef with pounded chilli, kaffir lime & lemon basil | 巴東式炸辣牛肋排 | HKD198】Dendeng refers to thinly sliced dried meat, more condensed in meaty taste, preserved through mixture of sugar and spice, skillfully evalates the intense flavors of the juicy, delectable short rib beef. As a die-hard fan of Ho Lee Fook, Carly had to admit that this was so darn good, consider this as par with Chef Jowett's renowned wagyu short ribs. Kaffir lime added extra pinch of acidity and fragrance o tone down the overall saltiness and sweetness, this dish was one to return for, Carly's stomach is growling thinking about those soft, tender beef ribs!
這道小牛肋排應該是這麼多的菜裡最讓人覺得驚艷的。印尼菜裡蘇門答臘的巴東菜（Padang Food）屬於佼佼者（另外有爪哇菜、錫江菜和棉蘭菜等等），巴東菜名菜「Dendeng Balado」是一種常見的街頭小吃：炸辣牛肉。「Dendeng」是類似我們所知的肉乾的製作方法，而「Dendeng Balado」其實就是把牛肉放到辣椒油裡炸到半透半乾，作下酒菜一絕！我們一般吃小牛肋排都是軟身的，在濃郁的醬汁裡將它燜煮到極致，然後肉骨分離地上檯，感受它的肉筋相互融在口中的快感。但這道小牛肋排上檯非常乾身，先用多種香料和糖醬醃製過，Gobay專門請教了他們所用的香料，他們特別提及了cardamon即小荳蔻，還拿了一碟給我們看，是品質好的青色荳蔻，不是較差的白荳蔻。小荳蔻有消食的作用，最適宜和肉類一起烹煮，味道峻烈芬芳。醃入味後再經高溫油鍋收乾部分水分，所以吃起來外層酥脆內裡肉質滑嫩，突出的甜香帶著絲絲辣意，加上泰國青檸（kaffir lime）和檸檬羅勒的酸和清新，整道菜餚的層次多得難以形容。連作為口利福瘋狂擁躉的Carly都做了一次「二五仔」，覺得這是可以和口利福的和牛小肋排媲美的一道佳餚！
【Chai Tea | 印度香茶 | Additional HKD25】Mama San's Chai Tea was crowd-pleasingly impressive as the natural tea aroma was very mind-soothing and exquisite in the subtle herbs fragrance, not very strong on the nose but then with a drop of syrup, the sensational tea is well-balanced and refreshing to pair with southeast cuisine. The staff said that they spent up to a day to brew these herbs tea, not going to lie but this was sooooo good. Carly has always been a huge fan of Chai tea, this unique blend from MAMA SAN satisfied all her cravings!
這杯印度香茶最了不起的是它不但保留那讓人心神怡靜的自然茶香，配搭上其他淡淡而不嗆的香料，喝下後便會覺得這是一個非常舒服的一天。店員們說他們會花上一整天的時間烹煮這杯香茶，難怪那麼的愛不釋手！《Desserts》
Desserts are all additional HKD30 during lunch time, it’s so worth it! Don’t miss out on these!
午餐時間只要加HKD30就可以擁有一款甜品，吉碟幫品嚐過覺得絕對不容錯過！
【“Kampung snicker” peanut butter parfait with butterscotch & chocolate coated peanuts |「鄉村版士力架」——花生醬奶油芭菲配朱古力花生和鹹奶油糖碎】Kampung, defined as village in Malaysia. Snickers – globally spread nougat topped with caramel and peanut, enrobed in milk chocolate kind of chocolate bar. Carly loved this chilled peanut butter parfait, ultra-smooth creamy, the nutty flavors were mind blobbing as the rich buttery aroma was not cloying sweet and rather scrumptious!
「Kampung」在馬拉語中是鄉村的意思，士力架眾所周知是內含烤花生和焦糖的牛奶朱古力棒。芭菲，可以理解為裝在高腳杯裡的新地雪糕類的物體——這裡主要是說它集合了花生醬和奶油經過冰凍後形成的凍糕，我們的甜品專家Carly非常喜愛這道甜品，因其口感相當幼滑，含豐富的果仁香味，而且不會太甜膩，是一道會帶給你驚喜的甜品。
【Lemongrass panna cotta with cucumber lime jelly served with lemon basil sorbet | 香茅奶凍，青瓜青檸啫哩配檸檬羅勒雪芭】Best dessert in the house! Summery, refreshing, and indulging as the top layer of icy citrusy lime jelly went so perfectly well with the panna cotta, bursting in energizing lemongrass scent, the bouncy jelly and creamy panna cotta was the best combo ever. Better yet, the lime sorbet was considerably sour and pungent but very decent and icy in a nice way.
這是一道讓Gobay都讚嘆不已的意式奶凍雪芭。它的頂部是檸檬羅勒雪芭，非常清新的酸甜，一勺子下去，就吃到下一層的青瓜青檸啫喱，再深一點就舀到嫩滑的香茅奶凍，口感和味道三重奏，而且一大頓午餐後吃一口這個，酸酸甜甜凍凍的甜品，感覺又給你力量再大吃一頓！
【Black Sticky rice with mango and coconut milk | 芒果椰汁紫米露】See how did MAMA SAN do a traditional dessert dish? Sticky rice with mango and condensed coconut milk, Carly used to cook purple glutinous rice pudding very often when she studied abroad, just coz it was easy and very filling, healthy too? (just don't add too much crystalized sugar or coconut milk ) but what does it do if there weren’t enough condensed milk? Coconut milk, with the right consistency and tad sweetened, complemented with the slightly chewy and soft black sticky rice. Mangoes, freshly sliced, not something you want to miss in a black sticky rice dessert.
Carly在海外求學期間就經常煮少糖少椰奶的紫米露，又易滿足口腹之欲又健康。她所期待的傳統甜品MAMA SAN毫不意外地做得十分出色：紫米露柔軟中又帶點堅韌——很像我們人類的個性吧——芒果很新鮮很甜，再加上濃度放得恰到好處的椰奶，「椰」！
MAMA SAN deserves all the recognition for modifying Asian street food into nicely presented buoyant dining experience, like a shining gem situated in the hidden corner of famed Lan Kwai Fong, heart of Central. Noteworthy that the staff was very accommodating even when we were all creating a huge mess at the scene as it was Lorling’s birthday when we visited, as you can picture we were loud, running around, asking. 12 hungry customers, left with happy stuffed tummies. Aside from Chef Jason Atherton, think Carly has spotted another favorite, Chef Will Meyrick, will you amaze us more?
一句道破，MAMA SAN絕對是值得一般食客甚至饕餮認真對待的餐廳。它就像是一份隱世瑰寶沉寂在中環等待我們去發掘。Chef Will對香辛料的了解和運用，對東南亞各地食物和文化的用心融合，除了得益他的街頭和市場遊走經歷，還有一眾不吝於與他分享傳統食譜的「Mama San」，難怪他要向她們致敬。
餐廳的服務也是非常不錯，當日是為Lorling慶祝生日，我們一共12人的排場還不斷遊走於拍照、食飯、聊天和玩耍之間，他們也是一直耐心而快樂地在旁幫忙和解答我們的問題，使得我們的用餐經歷非常愉快。我們期待Chef Will繼續擴張他的餐飲帝國，期待他帶來更多健康好味的驚喜！
題外話/補充資料：
* Lunch sets are must-try!
*必食午市套餐！
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
張貼
