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2014-10-06 4241 瀏覽
越來越多西班牙餐廳在香港紮根時,我亦越吃越多;走小館形式的西班牙餐廳不少,但走fine dining路線的似乎未算很多;最近,PMQ開了一間fine dining的西班牙餐廳 — Vasco。Vasco的Executive Chef是Paolo Casagrande,他亦是在西班牙米芝蓮二星餐廳Lasarte的Executive Chef,小妹曾在年頭時拜訪過Lasarte,有關的文章請看Lasarte。如果不喜歡Fine Dining,大家也可選擇到下一層的Isono Eatery and Bar,那邊走casual的形式,其實本來我想拜訪Isono的,但看過menu後,不算很吸引,所以最後選擇到Vasco。來到PMQ,電梯上到6樓時,還要走上一層才到Vasco,一推門,便看到這貴麗堂皇又富有現代感的裝潢,感覺真的不錯;而用餐區雖然沒有門分隔著每張枱,但有高高的枱背,所以私癮度亦不低。如果與數位朋友來的話,還有這個VIP Room,私癮度大大提升之餘,亦可以與朋友們暢所欲言,再加上這個裝潢,感覺實在很好。特別喜歡這個星形。這裡的裝潢吸引外,連餐具亦同樣的美,我很想我的家以後也用這種餐
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越來越多西班牙餐廳在香港紮根時,我亦越吃越多;走小館形式的西班牙餐廳不少,但走fine dining路線的似乎未算很多;最近,PMQ開了一間fine dining的西班牙餐廳 — Vasco。

Vasco的Executive Chef是Paolo Casagrande,他亦是在西班牙米芝蓮二星餐廳Lasarte的Executive Chef,小妹曾在年頭時拜訪過Lasarte,有關的文章請看Lasarte。

如果不喜歡Fine Dining,大家也可選擇到下一層的Isono Eatery and Bar,那邊走casual的形式,其實本來我想拜訪Isono的,但看過menu後,不算很吸引,所以最後選擇到Vasco。
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來到PMQ,電梯上到6樓時,還要走上一層才到Vasco,一推門,便看到這貴麗堂皇又富有現代感的裝潢,感覺真的不錯;而用餐區雖然沒有門分隔著每張枱,但有高高的枱背,所以私癮度亦不低。
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如果與數位朋友來的話,還有這個VIP Room,私癮度大大提升之餘,亦可以與朋友們暢所欲言,再加上這個裝潢,感覺實在很好。
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特別喜歡這個星形。
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這裡的裝潢吸引外,連餐具亦同樣的美,我很想我的家以後也用這種餐具,雖然好像有點誇張,但天天都要吃飯,天天都用美麗的餐具,吃得不是更開心嗎?
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末上麵包時,店員先為我們介紹了數款橄欖油,其實來自西班牙的橄欖油是很好的,只是他們都沒有做marketing,所以意大利的橄欖油令人覺得是更好的。
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三款橄欖油,上國由左至右,而下圖則由上至下;頭兩款在香港都有售,而第三款則在港暫時未有的;三款之中,我最喜歡的是第一款,味道最濃:但論包裝則最喜歡白色瓶身那款。
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先來小食,先吃橄欖,味道不會很鹹,清清的不錯;旁邊的是風乾牛肉包著意大利麵包條,風乾牛肉味道帶著輕輕的鹹香,油份亦剛剛好,肉味亦濃郁;而那一大片的則是夾著鵝肝,味道濃郁,creamy細膩;最後則吃那包在透明袋中的咖哩開心果,開心果很香脆,開始不會覺得咖哩味很強,但慢慢地,咖哩香便會滲出來。
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熟悉的牛油,感覺像飛到了西班牙一樣;面對一樣的廚師,縱然當時是在西班牙,現在是在香港,地點不同,但感覺依舊,也許,感覺才是最恆久的。

5款牛油之中,與Lasarte的是一樣的,由左至右,分別是原味、mushroom、tomato、spinach 和beetroot;最後還是mushroom,充滿著菌香,我是不是應該自家製mushroom butter來塗麵包呢? 實在太美味了。
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自家的sourdough

上來時還是熱辣辣的,外層脆脆的,而包心軟軟的,帶著香濃的麵包香和酵母香;熱辣辣的麵包,塗上軟滑的牛油後,牛油溶掉,那味道真的太幸福,假如每天都有這個sourdough和五色牛油,那是多幸福喔!
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Amuse Bouche - Cod Fish

Cod Fish上放著的olive oil emulsion,綠色的則是parsley, 魚入口爽滑,帶點彈牙的感覺,味道亦很濃郁;而那olive oil emulsion亦creamy,十分香。
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Suckling pig carpaccio with truffle vinaigrette and mustard frozen cream

這是我的頭盤,從前的我很少吃豬,因為那時未吃過美味的豬,現在的我頗喜歡吃美味的豬。Suckling pig吃得多,而Suckling pig carpaccio還是頭一次吃,而這個菜式,有點像在Lasarte吃的Slices of tempered beef steak;豬味濃郁,而肉質是非常軟,吃時把那mustard frozen cream塗勻,那mustard更能帶出肉香;當然,整體的香味,很多都來自truffle vinaigrette。
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Lobster and avocado tartar with Vasco Gazpacho

看著這個,令我想起了另一間西班牙餐廳;用了Gazpacho 作base,從來都覺得龍蝦和牛油果是很配的,牛油果creamy美味,龍蝦鮮甜,不過已經切得很細小,嚐不到太多呢;這道菜的味道是不錯的,但未算很特別。
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Brioche

吃完頭盤,店員便送上另一款麵包,這款包,當中有黑豬粒,包身帶著牛油香,帶輕輕的酥皮;黑豬粒帶鹹香,更添美味。
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Paella rice with sautéed Mediterranean squid and thin sliced octopus

我最愛的Paella,可惜這份Paella不是我的....嚐了數口,一吃便愛上,飯的硬度剛剛好,硬中帶煙韌;而用來煮paella的的broth是用蝦來熬製的,所以鮮味份外的強勁;飯上的八爪魚很鮮,那肉質很軟,實在太美味了!!! (Must-Try)
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Roast lamb fillet with celeriac cream, piquillo and tarragon pesto

因為被人選了Paella,那我只好選Lamb,不過你可能會說: 你也選Paella也可以的? 熟識我的朋友應該會知道我不喜歡選重複的食物,因為我想試更多。羊肉做得很香,肉質很軟,羶味不會很強;而旁邊還有一小件羊脷,質感帶點爽,輕易便能嚐到那羊味;旁邊還有celeriac cream,味道很濃郁,質感亦幼滑;這道菜不算特別,但味道不錯。
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Caramelized banana with coconut ice cream and mint granite

甜品時間了,看到caramelized這字總是會不其然便點的,實在太愛那無香了。香蕉的熟度剛好,軟度和甜度都適中;特別喜歡當中的脆脆,十分香口;而椰子雪糕味道亦很濃郁,質感幼滑,不錯。
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Amalfi Lemon curd with fresh fruit and citrus soup

另一款則選了檸檬味的,用上了Amalfi Lemon做的curd,質感有點像杏仁豆腐,彈牙軟滑,味道酸酸的;當中還有青蘋果粒等的生果,而citrus soup除了有檸檬外,還加入了柚子,酸酸的,一減飽滯感。
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Petit four

最後,還有Petit four,很喜歡這個器皿,很美喔;總共有3款選擇,分別是coffee puff,caramelized 松子仁和lemon jelly;coffee puff很美味,鬆鬆的puff,清新的咖啡香;松子仁亦很美味,很脆;而lemon jelly對我來說則有點甜。

吃過後,彷彿飛到了西班牙一樣,聽說這天總廚都在,慶幸自己能享受到西班牙的質素;價錢方面,一個3 courses的lunch setIF1$369+10%,以這樣的質素來說,一點都不貴;晚餐方面,chef tasting menu 為$1188+10%,如有機會,真的很想來品嚐這裡的晚餐,偏心之見,覺得定能滿足地離開。相信Vasco摘星是指日可待的,真的很喜歡這裡。

價錢: HKD406/位

美味指數: 4.2/5

餐廳: Vasco

地址: 中環鴨巴甸街35號元創方 Hollywood 7樓H701-H708鋪

電話: 2156 0888
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請支持一下小妹,給我一個like


(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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2014-09-27 5268 瀏覽
We chose the 8 course tasting menu instead of 5 course this time.Amuse bouche- ark shell in sauce, little sweet and sour.Trout tartarte with Orange, curd cucumber and trout caviar, excellent combination with the cracker, love this dish!Roasted Foie-gras, nori and duck consommé infused with citronelle, horseradish and hazeKnut saltLangoustine vanilla scented, false risotto with fennel and sea urchinRed palamos prawn and sea urchin on a seabed with crustocean mayonnaise Farmhouse egg yolk eith pot
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We chose the 8 course tasting menu instead of 5 course this time.
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Amuse bouche- ark shell in sauce, little sweet and sour.
Trout tartrate with orange, curd cucumber and trout caviar
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Trout tartarte with Orange, curd cucumber and trout caviar, excellent combination with the cracker, love this dish!
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Roasted Foie-gras, nori and duck consommé infused with citronelle, horseradish and hazeKnut salt
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Langoustine vanilla scented, false risotto with fennel and sea urchin
Red palamos prawn and sea urchin on seabed with custocean mayonnaise
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Red palamos prawn and sea urchin on a seabed with crustocean mayonnaise 
Farmhouse egg yolk with potato& mozzarella foam, cured Iberian pork jowl, basil&piment d'Espelette
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Farmhouse egg yolk eith potato and mozzarella foam, cured Iberian pork jowl, basil and piment d'Espelette
Low-temperature cooked turbot settled on onion& paprika marmalade, with braised endives,clam&octopus
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Low-temperature cooked turbot settled on onion & paprika marmalade, with braised endives, clams and octopus
Roast French pigeon, pork and dry tomoto stewed, Apple cream and liver toast
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Roast French piegon, pork and dry tomoto stewed, Apple cream and liver toast
Rice and cardamom essence soup with arbequina olive oil sponge & frozen cream
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Rice and cardamom essence soup with arbequina olive oil sponge and frozen cream 
Chocolate leaf with apricot jelly and frozen coffee
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chovolate leaf with apricot jelly and frozen coffee
Raspberry and almond sponge with strawberry, coconut and yogurt snow
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Raspberry and almond sponge with strawberry, coconut and yogurt snow- this is perfect, I could eat this all day! 
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(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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2014-09-23
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$2000 (晚餐)
推介美食
Trout tartrate with orange, curd cucumber and trout caviar
Red palamos prawn and sea urchin on seabed with custocean mayonnaise
Low-temperature cooked turbot settled on onion& paprika marmalade, with braised endives,clam&octopus
Raspberry and almond sponge with strawberry, coconut and yogurt snow
  • Trout tartrate with orange curd cucumber and trout caviar
  • Low-temperature cooked turbot settled on onion& paprika marmalade with braised endivesclam&octopus
  • Raspberry and almond sponge with strawberry coconut and yogurt snow
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VASCO is a nice addition to Hong Kong's dining scene, especially because it offers modern Spanish cuisine in a format besides TAPAs, which seems to be a bit overdone at the moment in HK.I made a booking for VASCO about a month out when I came across ISONO, the sister restaurant, by accident went visiting PMQ.   The receptionist was very helpful at the time and found me the first available Friday night.   A call to reconfirm was made the night before.Before we get to the cuisine, there are good a
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VASCO is a nice addition to Hong Kong's dining scene, especially because it offers modern Spanish cuisine in a format besides TAPAs, which seems to be a bit overdone at the moment in HK.

I made a booking for VASCO about a month out when I came across ISONO, the sister restaurant, by accident went visiting PMQ.   The receptionist was very helpful at the time and found me the first available Friday night.   A call to reconfirm was made the night before.

Before we get to the cuisine, there are good and bad parts of the VASCO layout.   If you want a quiet meal in a private dinner room, this is definitely a great option.   There have at least four private areas, one of which appeared to hold ~20 people.  The flip side of this set-up is things are very quiet, and poor service can be amplified when the staff forget about you in the private room.  Furthermore, the contrast with the lively area in ISONO (VASCO is on a balcony above) makes the quietness more noticeable.   Again, it depends on what you want, but just an FYI.

The food....  (no pictures as I believe it is more fun to be surprised by taste and sight) The were two set menus and an A la Carte option.  All options looked interesting, but in the end our group of four opted for A la Carte.   One of the signatures of VASCO is the butter selection, which consists of 7 various colors.   Very cool and something I have yet to see in HK.

To start, two in the party opted for the Farm Eggyolk, which was excellent.  Two very soft fried eggs with quinoa on the side covered with cured Iberico ham and mozzarella foam.  Not over the top, but the ham balanced nicely with eggs.   I did not try the other dishes, but the Roast Foie Gras was rated as excellent, and the Balsamic Tuna looked very much as one would expect, cubes of raw tuna.  There was definitely something for everyone on the starter menu.

For the main courses, two in the party opted for Turbot.  The Turbot was perfectly cooked.  Soft and moist on the inside with a nice crust on the outside.   The braised endives and octopus/clams were nice editions to the plate.  Overall, a simple and refined dish with lots of flavour.   The other diners had Roast Scallop and Ox Fillet w/sweetbreads, which they both rated highly.

I am not a huge dessert person, but I definitely recommend trying one at VASCO.  All of the desserts at our table were nicely portioned and light.  I had the Cardamon essenced rice soup over olive bread.   Sweet but not over powering.  Others had the Pineapple icecream and chocolate cake.  Again, everyone happy.

Overall, the food was excellent, and at ~HK$250 for an appetizer, ~HK$500 for a main, and ~HK$120 for a dessert, the prices are in line with other fine dining establishments in HK.

One nice part about VASCO is the wine list, which had many options sub-HK$800 a bottle.   We had two great Californian wines around the HK$600 mark, which is almost impossible to find in most high-end places in HK.  Well done to whoever put the wine list together.

As for the service...    as often is the case in HK, it was unexciting and flat.  On a few occassions, I had to exit the private area to find someone for more water, drinks, etc...   Too bad because that would have really brought the rest of the experience together.   Perhaps a visit from the chef would have been nice, given the limited number of tables in the venue.
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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2014-09-05
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2014-09-09 4239 瀏覽
I'm not a big fan of Spanish cuisine but I'm very pleased with the tasting menu tonight in Vasco.They have 5 different flavours of butter and 3 different kinds of olive oil. Butter: original, mushroom, tomato, spinach and beet root. Very interesting.Amuse Bouche: mussels in sour sauceBalsamic raw tuna with cold vegetable minestrone, tomatoes infusion and apple & lemon sorbet Langoustine vanilla scented, false risotto of fennel and sea urchin : love this dish. Roasted scallop with saffron rock fi
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I'm not a big fan of Spanish cuisine but I'm very pleased with the tasting menu tonight in Vasco.

They have 5 different flavours of butter and 3 different kinds of olive oil. 

Butter: original, mushroom, tomato, spinach and beet root. Very interesting.

Amuse Bouche: mussels in sour sauce

Balsamic raw tuna with cold vegetable minestrone, tomatoes infusion and apple & lemon sorbet 

Langoustine vanilla scented, false risotto of fennel and sea urchin : love this dish. 

Roasted scallop with saffron rock fish essence, baby-spinach and gribiche sauce: the combination was amazing.

Cocotte of seasonal legumes with tarragon pestro, piquillo pepper tamarind: the vegetables are very fresh. 

Raspberry and almond sponge with strawberry, coconut and yogurt snow: excellent dessert.
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(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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VASCO is the Spanish Fine Dining restaurant on top of the more casual ISONO Eatery & Bar downstairs - both are consulted and looked after by the Barcelona Michelin 2* Lasarte kitchen team and also 3* Martin Berasategui from Basque Country. We arrived here for a friends birthday and it was going to be all out or nothing, let’s order the $1180 Grand Tasting Degustation meal, which comprises of around 10 Courses and other add-ons. 3 types of Spanish Olive oils -Each with slightly different results
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VASCO is the Spanish Fine Dining restaurant on top of the more casual ISONO Eatery & Bar downstairs - both are consulted and looked after by the Barcelona Michelin 2* Lasarte kitchen team and also 3* Martin Berasategui from Basque Country. We arrived here for a friends birthday and it was going to be all out or nothing, let’s order the $1180 Grand Tasting Degustation meal, which comprises of around 10 Courses and other add-ons.

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3 types of Spanish Olive oils -

Each with slightly different results. We all liked the middle one the best for balance and floral grassiness..

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Lovely Sofas -

I didn’t expect this Design setting. It was almost Classical. But not so much the Modern Spanish food to follow afterwards.. Loved the hybrid design and not too pretentious.

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Dried Cecina Beef Grissini, Foie Gras Crispy Sandwich,

Olive with Orange Jam, and Spiced Caramelized Pistachios -

Interesting starters and thoughtful and playful, also very Spanish in a way. Loving the concept already. ~ 8.5/10

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5 Colored Butters -

Plain, Mushrooms which was very powerful earthy, Tomato which was also herbal and almost meaty like a Bolognaise ragu. Pistachio which looked greener than it tasted so, and Beetroot which was mostly about sweetness but could have more Beet taste. It’s not as gimmicky as it looks, we finished most of them in no time. ~ 8/10

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Sourdough Bread -

As I mentioned previously, Hong Kong has seen an up rise in bread quality during the past 1-2 years and this was no exception, yeasty and aromatic, crispy yet soft. Great bread and memorable. ~ 9/10

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1st Amuse Bouche -

Cauliflower cream, Clam and Caviar
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Amuse Bouche #2 -

Fish Cheek-Tongue Kokotxa with Parsley Cream and Edible Flowers -

Definitely Basque Cuisine, which is one of the best places on earth to eat Pintxo tapas, and how fine dining in that area evolved from these dishes, both from French and Spanish Basque side.

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Pancetta Brioche -

Buttery with lots of Iberico pork pancetta flavour. Really amazingly done and flavorful but not greasy, even for the health conscious like moi. ~ 9/10

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Sakura Prawn Crisps, with Trout Tartare with Orange, Curd Cucumber & Trout Caviar -

We thought the trout tartare was slightly overly minced and salty, but the shrimp crackers were very aromatic and reminded me of a similar dish at AMBER recently. ~ 7.5/10

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Marinated tuna -

A replacement dish as the Birthday Girl doesn’t eat innards like Foie Gras, heard it was pretty ok and with such short notice, the kitchen handled the situation well enough.

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Roasted Foie Gras with Hazelnut Salt, Duck Consommé, Citronelle,

Horseradish, Seaweed and some Lemon Grass -

Initially I didn’t like the sound of this recipe as it’s too Asianized, but when I bit in, the duck gras was cooked to perfection and with a crunchy coating, all the flavours were balanced and not over powering each other. Was very surprised I liked this dish so much more than I anticipated. ~ 9/10

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Red Palamos prawn, with Sea Urchin, Crustacean Mayonnaise,

Prawn Salt, Seaweed & Samphire seabed -

This was so reminiscent of the dishes I ate in Spain especially closer to the Catalonia to Basque side. This was really lovely – although I have had even more amazing Palamos prawn dishes there to compare with directly, though I am talking about Michelin 3* restaurants in Spain. ~ 8/10

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Birthday Girl needed a Quilt due to the Air-con Blasting on full -

They actually have these pre-wrapped. Excellent preparation by the restaurant,

if only they also stopped pushing us to order $95 a bottle Mineral Waters that tasted too Alkaline, or actually know that Cecina is dry cured beef, instead of just saying ‘No’ it is not to me and acting a bit defensive.

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Farmhouse Egg Yolk with Potatoes and Mozzarella foam,

Guanciale pork jowl, Basil, Black Truffle -

This was pretty decent but one can’t help to compare it to the NUR Restaurant version. That one has more egg and mushrooms and grains taste. This dish was just ok and the weakest dish tonight for me, it needed more flavours in most aspects. ~ 6/10

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Guanciale Pork Jowl on top of the egg…

Almost Lardo like transparent. This to me is a Carbonara concept..

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Wild Turbot on Onions and Paprika with Clams and Seaweed, Braised Endive, Octopus -

This was cooked well but somehow I thought could do with more. It was good but may be it needed some Shells Present or Grilling flavours? It was a bit flat in the aromatic sensations ~ 7/10

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Slow-cooked Iberico Pork Loin with Barley -

This was again a replacement dish due to the Birthday girl not wanting any game meat. Surprisingly the meat tasted almost Salt-Cured like. The meat texture could be softer but for a make-shift solution, this was ok..

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French Pigeon, Pigs Ears and Dry Tomato stew, Apple Cream and Foie Gras Toast -

This had a crisp skin and the pigeon cooked to medium-rare accurately and seasoned well. In HK context this was one very fine pigeon, although the versions I had at AKRAME and Caprice are on the same level. The ones I ate in Basque Michelin restaurants are better yet again though and more complicated in recipe, so you can always expect more fanciful ideas perhaps? ~ 8/10

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A Roasted Lamb as a replacement dish -

Tried a piece of this and it was cooked well.

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Cardamom and Rice Essence soup, Arbequina olive oil sponge, Frozen cream -

This was surprisingly likable and reminded me of a modern day Riz au Lait. The olive oil sponge was so El Bulli inspired in style. Very strong in the Cardamom input too. Unexpectedly likable, in fact Madam Sixty Ate did a similar dessert before but I liked this one more ~ 9/10

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Frozen Coffee with Chocolate Leaf, Apricot Jelly -

This looked pretty enough. It was decent and a nice finish as a dessert. If anything, I expected some sauce for some reason but this was so Autumn.... ~ 8/10

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Hazelnut and Chocolate Pralines, with Cocoa nibs -

As Petits fours

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Raspberry Financier, Yuzu Fruit Pates, Choux Puffs -

I was very surprised on the positive side, as these mini desserts were all done excellently and didn’t just carry the presentation. The financiers were caramelized chewy on the edges, the fruit pate had a lot of sourness than foreseeable and helped to cut down on the fullness from the many Courses. Very thoughtfully done. Overall the meal was great value for Money at $1180 for all the Tasting Courses, and with Great Butter and Bread too. Definitely Michelin 1-2* Quality food for the 2015 Guide if you ask my own opinion. Great pick by the birthday friends !

Price: $1180 + Drinks + 10% Per Person

Food: ♕♕♕♕ 1/2 - ♕♕♕♕♕



Address: Vasco, 7/F, Block B, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen Street, Hong Kong

Ph: +852 2156 0888


(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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2014-08-15 3486 瀏覽
Getting to Vasco in PMQ is a little difficult but once you figure it out, it sounds simple. Get into the very large (and probably an old cargo lift) at the end of the building, get to the 6th floor (or is it 7th - I can't remember) and then walk up another flight of stairs to Vasco. When I got there, there was another lady in front of me and she had trouble locating her reservation for the evening. After waiting for a few minutes while the two ladies at the counter tried to find her reservation,
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Getting to Vasco in PMQ is a little difficult but once you figure it out, it sounds simple. Get into the very large (and probably an old cargo lift) at the end of the building, get to the 6th floor (or is it 7th - I can't remember) and then walk up another flight of stairs to Vasco. When I got there, there was another lady in front of me and she had trouble locating her reservation for the evening. After waiting for a few minutes while the two ladies at the counter tried to find her reservation, I got fed up waiting and told them that I will find my friends myself instead. I thought that the two ladies at the front were not doing their jobs well - one of them should attend to me while the other attends to the other customer.
On to the food - service was pretty patchy when it came to ordering. As I am a vegetarian I asked if there was a vegetarian tasting menu. Unfortunately the answer was no, but the chef could change some of the dishes. Ok, that's fine, but for a top-end restaurant like Vasco I was expecting a little more. One of my friends is a pescetarian, so she also opted to have a few dishes changed. While that was not a problem with Vasco, there was at least three different waiters all asking us about our dietary preferences and telling us what the chef can change that we got confused!
That aside, I have to give them points for trying. I could tell that they are trying hard to please, and that's a very positive thing. The waiters came across as genuinely excited about the food when they presented it. I quite liked that there were three different types of olive oil which they went through with great fanfare. The amuse bouche was unimpressive; it seemed to be tastier for the non-vegetarians. The tasting menu was good although there were a few items that were way below the benchmark, such as the gazpacho which turned out to be a bland, yogurt-based cold "soup" with hints of cucumber. It wasn't just me as I let my friends taste it too, and they all agreed it wasn't up to standard. I mentioned this to our waiter after paying for the bill so hopefully they can improve the dish. 

The pacing of the meal was great - plates were cleared when we finished and within 3-5 minutes, the next one will be set.

We had a bottle of wine and that was decanted well. The wine list is of course leaning on the expensive side, but I can live with that as it is a fine-dining restaurant.
Other than the gazpacho, everything else was executed well. Dessert was delicious, and so were the petit fours which appeared in a flashy glass sculpture.
My take on Vasco? I will visit again but hopefully they will have a dedicated vegetarian menu by then. Ambience and decor didn't strike me as very different from other top-end restaurants; one of my friends remarked that the decor would look dated after a few months. I guess after the novelty of dining at a new restaurant wears off, it will be left to the ambience and food to retain customers. I believe the food will continue to be a draw; while not cheap, Vasco is a fine-dining place which will deliver if they get their teething issues sorted.
題外話/補充資料: The tasting menu (the shorter one of the two tasting menus) is good value for money. However it will be a long meal so be prepared.
(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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2014-08-12
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等級4
2014-08-08 3540 瀏覽
經過一個稍為寧靜的六、七月份之後,八月份的飲食界又開始忙了起來。未來日子將有名廚 Jamie Oliver 的 Jamie's Italian 和 Gordon Ramsay 的 Bread Street Kitchen 在香港粉墨登場,不過個人的注意力卻早已集中在剛於中環新蒲點元創坊開幕的 Vasco Fine Dining 身上。留意了 Vasco 已經有一段時間,對她亦有着一定的期望。為什麼?全因 Vasco 的背後粒粒皆星,餐廳除了有 AMMO、The Drawing Room、海南少爺等的幕後人物 Tony Cheng 掌舵之外 ,還有來自西班牙的三星米芝蓮名廚 Martin Berasategui 和他的得意門生 Paolo Casagrande 設計的巴斯克風格菜式,為食客帶來最頂尖的味覺享受 。巴斯克是法國和西班牙接壤的地區,由於位處沿海地帶,因此以區內風景如畫的景色和美味的海鮮菜式而聞名。單單一個細小的 San Sebastián 鎮,便已經擁有數間著名的三星米芝蓮餐廳,可見巴斯克菜的威力。今次 Vasco 的室內設計由近期人氣大熱的 Joyce Wang 一手包辦
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經過一個稍為寧靜的六、七月份之後,八月份的飲食界又開始忙了起來。未來日子將有名廚 Jamie Oliver 的 Jamie's Italian 和 Gordon Ramsay 的 Bread Street Kitchen 在香港粉墨登場,不過個人的注意力卻早已集中在剛於中環新蒲點元創坊開幕的 Vasco Fine Dining 身上。

留意了 Vasco 已經有一段時間,對她亦有着一定的期望。為什麼?全因 Vasco 的背後粒粒皆星,餐廳除了有 AMMO、The Drawing Room、海南少爺等的幕後人物 Tony Cheng 掌舵之外 ,還有來自西班牙的三星米芝蓮名廚 Martin Berasategui 和他的得意門生 Paolo Casagrande 設計的巴斯克風格菜式,為食客帶來最頂尖的味覺享受 。
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巴斯克是法國和西班牙接壤的地區,由於位處沿海地帶,因此以區內風景如畫的景色和美味的海鮮菜式而聞名。單單一個細小的 San Sebastián 鎮,便已經擁有數間著名的三星米芝蓮餐廳,可見巴斯克菜的威力。

今次 Vasco 的室內設計由近期人氣大熱的 Joyce Wang 一手包辦 (近期作品包括 Mott 32、Hay Market 等等),顏色以金黃色為主調,配上復古味重的傢私,成功將空間塑造得時尚而別具氣派。餐廳的三個角落還有三間私人宴會室,三個主題,各有各的個性。
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仔細翻看菜單,發現食物的選擇不算太多,除了少量散叫的菜式之外,就只有兩款由總廚 Paolo Casagrande 度身訂造的五道菜 ($890) 和八道菜 ($1180) 的套餐。兩款套餐的菜式完全截然不同,但都是以他的招牌菜式作為骨幹。

點過飲品後,侍應已急不及待為我們送上幾款精美的餐前小吃。西班牙風乾黑毛豬火腿卷脆麵包條,味道普通。鵝肝「三文治」入口即溶,不錯。咖喱開心果,頗特別。鮮橄欖配香梨肉和橄欖味「魚子醬」,有分子料理概念,加分。
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欣賞完小食拼盤之後,我們也鎖定好八道菜為目標,「表演」亦正式地開始。

繼續餐前開胃小食的環節,接著的一款櫻桃西班牙凍湯賣相精緻,冰涼的口感清新至極,內裡還有鮮甜的西班牙小蜆,不錯。最後的蒸馬介休配橄欖泡沫是幾款小食中最為失望的一款。
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開胃小食之後,還有兩款麵包,未開始正餐,已差不多吃飽了。第一款熱辣辣的麵包,其實並非主角。真正的主角正是旁邊五款味道截然不同的牛油,由上至下,法式帶鹽的、磨菇、蕃茄、菠菜和紅菜頭,五種顏色和口味,令普通的麵包生色不少。緊貼其後,還有煙肉法式焗飽,味道像吃鹹的 cup cake 一樣,特別喜歡煙肉的甘香。
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吃了兩款麵包和三款小食之後,才終於轉入正題,第一道菜先送上鮮味無比的法國鱒魚他他。鱒魚肉用香橙油醃過後,明顯將鮮味突出,配以薄薄的青瓜啫喱和少量魚籽,味道便更有層次感,同時亦為豐富的一餐揭幕 (4/5)。
法國鱒魚他他
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第二道菜是烤鵝肝配香鴨清湯。兩細片的鵝肝只經過輕輕烤過,然後伴以辣根荳腐、露筍、磨菇、青瓜和紫菜等配料,最後由侍應灌入用鴨烹調的清湯。鵝肝入口頗香,也喜歡配菜各款不同的味道混而為一,但清湯如果更濃郁的話,相信效果更佳 (3.5/5)。
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烤鵝肝配香鴨清湯
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跟著是個人覺得整晚最出色的一道菜,海洋的主題從菜式的賣相已清晰可見,主角是經過 55度低溫烹調的西班牙紅蝦,配以北海道海膽和用蝦頭膏煮過的蛋黃醬及蝦殼粉。香濃的蝦膏味撲鼻而來,加上肉質爽甜的紅蝦,絕對稱得上是色香味俱全 (4.5/5)。
低溫煮西班牙紅蝦配北海道海膽和蝦頭膏
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主菜前最後一道前菜亦同樣是 Chef Casagrande 的得意傑作。意大利有機蛋黃做到接近溫泉蛋的效果,再配搭香草泡沫、松露、水牛芝士薯仔和小麥米。跟著侍應的指示,我們將所有配料均勻地攪拌後才吃,味道卻有少許偏鹹,層次感亦有點不足 (3/5)。
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終於到了主菜部分,先來一款香煎法國比目魚。比目魚煎得不錯,不過魚肉本身的味道不夠濃,配搭的西檸泡沫亦較清淡,似乎帶不出比目魚的鮮味 (3/5)。
煎法國比目魚
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相比之下,另一款主菜燒鵪鶉出色得多。燒鵪鶉的火候掌握得恰到好處,皮是香脆,但肉亦剛剛好,加上鵝肝棒、西班牙豬耳和一個用鵪鶉和鵝肝炮製的醬汁之後,味道更加惹味 (4/5)。
燒鵪鶉
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一輪豐富的菜式後,還需要少許時間消化一下,才有胃納來面對甜品

第一款甜品是手撕的海綿蛋糕配上橄欖油味的雪糕,這道菜主要以清新味蕾為宗旨,亦大致能夠達到目的 (4/5)。
海綿蛋糕配橄欖油味雪糕
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第八道亦是整晩最後一道菜叫「巧克力葉」。菜式以一片巧克力做的葉為中心,並伴以杏脯蓉、巧克力脆脆和一球咖啡味雪糕,味道雖不及上一款甜品那麼滋味,但總算為一頓非常精彩的晚餐譜寫上句號 (3.5/5)。
巧克力葉
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Petit Fours 隨後送上,單看漂亮的玻璃盛器,已知道餐廳在各方面一絲不苟的精神。單單一件普通的器皿也特地從西班牙運到,務求令 Vasco 散發出獨有地道的風情。
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食物以一款慢煮紅蝦最為討好,其他具巴斯克風格的菜式同樣令人賞心悅目,只要水準繼續延續下去,相信年底必定摘星有望。

(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)
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用餐日期
2014-07-30
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$1180 (晚餐)
推介美食
燒鵪鶉