38
18
9
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招牌菜
打從中環嘉咸街的重建計畫開始宣佈的時候,已經知道這條小街將有變天的一日,市建局需一直與各老店商討,但最終仍會來個完成拆卸再重建,部份在這街上經營了半個世紀的老店,有些早前已經搬遷或是榮休結業,剩下來的幾間店舖,包括開業70多年的新景記,亦需於3月底遷出。香港這個華洋雜處的小島,早在英國殖民地時代,中環已經是個繁華的地段,嘉咸街及結志街都開滿了各式各樣的店舖,變成為一個小市集,隨著時代的變換及地區發展,小市集將會關閉,待市建局的新市集落成,乾濕貨店才會搬進去重新開業。但這個計劃卻不包括飲食業,食店如要繼續經營,只能自行尋找合適位置,聽來實在可惜,在新聞報導上看到新景記老闆的一番肺腑之言,更覺得我們需要把這些見證香港歷史變遷的本土老店延續下去。曾經數次光顧這老店,喜歡它古舊不變的裝修,牆壁上是上世紀的圖案花瓷磚,舊式麵店的大圓枱及摺櫈,牆上用白油手寫的食物項目,最愛的還是枱上放著的不銹綱有蓋筷子筒,這個筷子筒已有40年的歷史,當年是訂造的,物料依然原好,是碩果僅存的珍貴古董呢。店內牆壁上貼著不少過往的介紹報導。每趟來我們總會叫一份【淨魚片】,炸魚片是這裡的名物,一條條的像似金磚條的放在麵店門口,只因許多客人會特地來買回家的,小妹亦曾經買來當作火鍋材料,朋友們都讚不絕口呢。魚片的厚薄度恰好,外皮炸至金黃焦脆,魚片呈現許多細密及大小不一的小洞。入口爽彈鮮味,富點點嚼度感,魚的鮮味更會從咀嚼中輕輕散發出來,表層的甘香與魚香相互夾雜著,會令人愈吃愈滋味!再來一碗【牛丸魚旦河粉】河粉柔滑軟香,魚蛋依舊鬆軟,魚香味郁郁。內裡佈滿小洞,這是手打魚蛋及用料上乘的獨有特色,肉質彈牙爽鮮,吃起來滿有魚的鮮香味。牛丸質感恰好,入口彈牙,細味中還能嚐到牛肉的粗糙與爽勁,牛香自然,我亦甚喜歡。另一碗【牛腩墨魚丸河粉】這兒雖然以魚片魚旦聞名,意料之外牛腩亦做得很出色入味,入口軟香之餘且充滿牛肉的香濃肉味,更沒甚肥膩感覺,實在不錯。相對地墨魚丸有點平庸,墨香味不足,丸內亦沒有我喜愛的墨魚碎粒,咬口感只是一般。麵店在這條街上努力地經營了超過半個世紀,如今將快結業,又少了一間滿載港土本色的老店,實在可惜,寄望它稍後找到合適的舖位後重新經營吧,等著你回來呢!
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日前得知新景記因市區重建將於三月底結業,便跟朋友來試其口碑不錯的魚蛋和片頭。我點了魚蛋及片頭雙拼河,朋友則點了四寶河,另外還要了份炸魚皮和腐乳生菜。索價17大元的炸魚皮原來只是小小的一碗,份量跟同區「民園」索價8元的差不多,而且還沒有配湯。魚皮較厚身,質感不太脆,而且調味挺重手,不推薦啊。生菜新鮮,沒有灼過頭,爽脆恰如其分。雙拼河(魚蛋及片頭)$36這家魚蛋不是很彈牙的那款,反倒比較軟身,看到牆上的剪報寫著是老闆打魚蛋時不溝粉的緣故。魚蛋有點胡椒味,也吃到些碎魚骨,不過魚味就不太夠了。比起魚蛋我更喜歡片頭,同樣非彈牙那一派,看著有點像高野豆腐,吃著魚味比魚蛋出一點。至於河粉質素只屬一般,可試其他粉麵。試了個魚皮餃,質素平平。朋友表示牛丸不錯,但墨魚丸太多粉。另外值得一提的是店家自製的辣椒油,夠香夠辣,十分滋味。能吃辣的不妨試試,喜歡的亦可買一瓶帶回家。想一嚐新景記滋味的要抓緊去了,因為走之前跟老闆聊了一下,他說現在還沒找到適合的鋪位,可能此番結業之後就後會無期了。「難避免捲入時代太恐怖」「旋律比我幸運 我的下場沒法知」時代巨輪終要殘忍輾過,但願新景記最終能夠如願重開吧。
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This small, local noodle shop is located at Gage Street wet market and right opposite to the more famous and touristy Lan Fong Yuen. I ordered their signature dish -- fish ball and fish cake noodles today. I wouldn't say it tastes ohmygodsuperduperawesome but everything does taste good. You could get a taste of authentic, old-school local comfort food here. Their homemade fish balls are all natural. No chemicals. Soft texture rather than bouncy, springy type. Corner sides of fish cakes (片頭) are all sold out by the time I visited (around 2:30 pm on Saturday) so I couldn't give it a try. Their homemade chilly sauce is also good but be careful not to put too much in your bowl or else you can't really taste the freshness of their fish bone broth (no MSG). I heard their fish dumplings are also nice! The staff here, unlike your local cha-chan-teng and noodle restaurants, were sooo friendly. Made me feel so warm. You could feel its long history from their ceramic floor and wall tiles -- which I found very classic and beautiful! The price is reasonable given its central location in Central. They were selling a bowl of noodles at $25 two years ago but the urban renewal and construction works in that area have definitely affected their business. Most residents have already moved out of that area. 😔Farewell to Sun King Kee Noodle. It survived the riots in the 60s, financial crisis and SARS... But it can't survive impossibly high rents nowadays. My friend (whose boss is the son of this old restaurant owner) said the family did try to mobilize mass pressure upon the Urban Renewal Authority which once "made a promise on paper that vendors would be allowed to continue their operation" in the area. The old owner and his shop were featured in the government promotion campaign, "HK Our Home" (#bullshit) two years ago and now the government is asking him to pack and go. You still have 10 days if you want to pay a farewell to this soon-to-be-history noodle shop.
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最近,睇新聞才得知,中環結志街、嘉咸街一帶,即將要重建! 一切將成為歷史!因此,3月尾商戶便要紛紛被迫結業! 而其中,位於結志街屹立六十多年的 <新景記粉麵>,也將於 3月尾結業!我亦問女店員確認是 3月尾結業! 雖然我是首次幫襯,臨別依依!作最後支持吧!星期六中午前來,一個人容易搵位! 加上店內全是圓枱,要攝位亦無問題! 我見到牆上的綉花畫及立體浮雕畫手工精細!此外,不論店內外都貼滿剪報!店員們的態度都 OK! 並沒有因為忙到馬不停蹄而態度惡劣!總給人感覺這是滿載人情味的老店!看見餐牌,價錢並不平宜啊!四寶河 $38份量不算太多,價錢頗貴! 四寶包括:墨魚丸、魚蛋、魚片頭及魚皮餃,每樣兩粒!墨魚丸 ~ 口感有點腍, 我卻喜歡墨魚丸那種味道!魚蛋 ~ 鮮味彈牙!魚片頭 ~ 氣孔大!外表粗糙!魚皮餃 ~ 魚皮薄而煙韌,豬肉餡鮮美! 起碼比較坊間的魚皮餃,不會食到一口油!魚皮餃河粉 ~ 晶瑩剔透而雪白爽滑!腐乳生菜 $17店家的腐乳惹味之餘卻不是過鹹,恰到好處!大家要幫襯就趁快嘞!
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難得有同事過到嚟中環開會,於是我地一行人就落左去新景記度食lunch~ 本來我想食筷子記,但老實講,真係俾佢地啲服務質素同趕客服務嚇到怕~ 於是千里迢迢嚟到呢間~門口都係幾古舊嘅舖頭~裡面真係唔可以講裝潢呢樣野,因為真係同普通大排檔無分別咁滯~ 我地被安排坐左係最前嘅一張圓枱,店員一定好好禮貌,有少少犯賤咁講,平時去到呢啲舖頭,真係會俾啲呀姐鬧,無櫈自己去搵,但係呢度啲呀姐搵埋俾你,仲要唔覺意整到你都講唔好意思,真係有禮貌到我都覺得唔好意思。同事推介呢度呢紫菜,所以二話不說就叫左片頭紫菜河,呢度上菜速度真係快到無倫~ 5分鐘倒就嚟到~ 試左個紫菜,無甩色,同埋唔係變左紫色,咸咸地,真係推介之作! 至於河粉,我覺得太碎。片頭方面,我略嫌太乾,如果唔係我都會俾笑笑,可能我唔係食呢度嘅魚旦,所以總係覺得呢個麵差少少。總結係:係中環食飯50蚊內叫平架啦~
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