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2010-05-19
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14th May 2010久聞名人厨師Ricky Cheung於柴灣開了一問私房菜餐廳,但由於位置偏遠,兼且位於工廠大廈(心想吃法國餐應該要浪漫些!),再加上不便宜,其他私房菜大多$300多元,Le Mieux Bistro剛開張已經是$500幾一位,現在更是$680+10%!近日Piere II, French Window 等名店推出的French May Four Sense Special Menu 都只是$700多一位,似乎還未有強烈理據要光顧. 點知突然間連續3天有不同親友問及'試過未?'其中一位更極力推介Black Truffle Carbonara Pasta, 話隻温泉蛋做得一流,跟Carbonara的組合更是天衣無縫,於是當第3位朋友問及時,就鼓勵佢搞飯局,終於我們一行七人品嚐了物有所值的一餐. 先講地點,我們在東區走廊真係lost咗,出錯出口,又走回頭,最後遲到半粒鐘,真係唔好意思.有朋友乘地鐵要行2條街,還是搭的士方便.再講環境,停車場的員工又幾helpful,知道我們首次到來食私房菜,門口啲就指示我們車泊3摟,然後乘電梯往4摟,車到3摟,又有人揮手安排我們洎車
久聞名人厨師Ricky Cheung於柴灣開了一問私房菜餐廳,但由於位置偏遠,兼且位於工廠大廈(心想吃法國餐應該要浪漫些!),再加上不便宜,其他私房菜大多$300多元,Le Mieux Bistro剛開張已經是$500幾一位,現在更是$680+10%!近日Piere II, French Window 等名店推出的French May Four Sense Special Menu 都只是$700多一位,似乎還未有強烈理據要光顧.
點知突然間連續3天有不同親友問及'試過未?'其中一位更極力推介Black Truffle Carbonara Pasta, 話隻温泉蛋做得一流,跟Carbonara的組合更是天衣無縫,於是當第3位朋友問及時,就鼓勵佢搞飯局,終於我們一行七人品嚐了物有所值的一餐.
先講地點,我們在東區走廊真係lost咗,出錯出口,又走回頭,最後遲到半粒鐘,真係唔好意思.有朋友乘地鐵要行2條街,還是搭的士方便.
再講環境,停車場的員工又幾helpful,知道我們首次到來食私房菜,門口啲就指示我們車泊3摟,然後乘電梯往4摟,車到3摟,又有人揮手安排我們洎車的位置,就在電挮旁邊,按掣等電梯,一回兒便到達,唔係嗰d油壓電梯,行路仲快過佢嗰隻.餐廳都唔難揾,走了幾步,就已經見到 Le Mieux Bistro 啲搶眼紅色大牆及銀色字招牌,全程無被工廠大厦環境掃興.
餐廳內裡裝修清雅,有大大的酒櫃,仿似酒店餐廳的格局,長長餐枱與餐枱之間有寬敞的空間,比在市區的私房菜餐廳有私穩.特別在她提供一個隔着大玻璃的open kitchen, 讓客人看到廚房的運作,主廚Ricky全晚皆在裏面忙碌,真係有落手做菜的.
先稱讚她服務一流,有齊fine dinning的水準,首先是全程找waiter幫忙無難度,兼且快而準.二則,願意照顧有特別要求的客人,我們席上有位朋友因為不愛吃cheese,他們就為他特別製作了3個走cheese & cream 啲 dishes. 最重要的是 Manager, Andy 很熱誠地為我們講解菜式,回答我們也許是 'naive' 的問題. 當然少不了有Ricky 啲親身解說, 在他巡迴到訪每枱客人之時,被我們起碼霸佔了30分鐘.
若非得到Ricky & Andy 啲解說,我們就只知食物美味,卻不明其所以然.怎也想不到烹調工序如此複雜,控制水準如此困難,做一道菜容易,做一道大部份人皆欣賞的就3倍艱難!
得到高手的慷慨分享,詳盡菜式評論如下:
May Dinner Menu
1, Baked Asian Herb Crusted Salmon with Poached White Asparagus
第一道菜便已很有心思及創意,一致通過,這是我們極度讚賞的頭盆,賣相漂亮之餘,味道絕頂清新幼嫩可口.
先談賣相,一件厚厚的三文魚扒加上一滴黃梅醬,貌似一個感慨號,是否驚嘆為何世上有如此美食! 右方的white asparagus及沙律堆砌成一個圓形,左右加起來看就是"10",難道是足10分的意思?
The salmon is just terrific, very fresh and tender, it tastes raw but is actually done by slow cook. The benefit of slow cook is that it keeps the freshness of the meat to a maximum as high temperture cooking may damage the texture. Just because the food needed to be cooked in a relatively low temperature, this kind of dish used to take long hours for preparation.
Our first experience on slow cook dishes came from Magnus Ek (a famous chef from Sweden) back in 2007. The Norwegion Losbter was done by slow cook in room temperature (Hong Kong temperature was about 20C in Oct 07). It was marinated in lemon juice and olive oil only, wrapped by a plastic paper, cooked in room temperature for, I don't remember how long the chef said.
I think the salmon we have here tastes even better. Though, it is hard to compare with a memory 3 years ago!
Salmon入口即時融化,無比嫩滑,有着吃魚生的口感,但又唔覺佢好生.頓覺有非常非常少的腥味,可能入口salmon始終是冰鮮,又或是帶有魚皮的關係.
據Andy解說, 做法是先把salmon用Asian Herb(例如薑,蒜,香草等)醃好, 然後用保鮮紙包裹着用低温(40-50C)煮若干小時,時間要控制得非常好,否則salmon肉質會變.
Salmon旁邊的魚皮灑上芝麻,兼帶有濃烈的香草味,唔知用咗咪嘢袐製香料?
White asparagus 貌似常見的green asparagus, 味道較light but more tender.卻是這個季節才有供應.雞蛋番茄沙律亦做得非常好味.
2, Fresh Hand-Picked Crab Meat Grantinated with Parmigiano Cheese Crumbs
這道菜貌似甜品 apple crumble,上面加了葱,底部加了茄汁. 其實頂層像有氣泡的餅餅就是用Parmigiano cheese 做啲 cheese crumble,下面底層是蟹肉.
未進口已嗅到樸鼻的芝士味,入口有在吃釀蟹蓋的口感,脆口之餘有蟹肉的質感及鮮味,用料上乘十足,口感有層次.
原來 crab meat 生拆出來後要泠藏,否則食用時反而鮮味不及,又學倒嘢喇!
3, Thai Basil Scented Tomato Consommé
很多人以為普通番茄清湯,唔值錢,原來這個湯才是考廚師功力的菜式.
In cooking, a consommé is a type of clear soup made from richly flavored stock or bouillon that has been clarified usually through a fining process involving egg protein. It usually requires an advanced knowledge of cooking and past experience to create a high quality consommé. Despite, or perhaps because of, these limitations, consommé has maintained its place as one of the most highly regarded and appreciated soups in the world.
番茄清湯聽起來好似很容易做,以為只要把大量新鮮番茄敖成老火湯便成!問題是為甚麽這道湯是半透明而不是深紅色的呢?
原來工序繁多,煲湯時要不停攪動,煲成後要隔清湯渣,秘缺是加上蛋白,它凝固時會包着湯渣,經過多次重覆過濾才成為清湯.
一般 Consommé 都有加肉敖的,而這個湯就只用番茄,可見Ricky的功力.據他說,廚房內只有一名廚師能做到這個湯.
今晚的Tomato Consommé 加了數小片紅薑蔔及西芹,看起來漂色,卻嗅到淡淡的番茄香,大啖喝之,盡是滿嘴濃郁的番茄湯,令人胃口大開.
A few words on comparing Ricky's Tomato Consommé and Roland Schuller's Tomato Water (Roland is currently chef of Drawing Room, previously work for Aspasia. Tomato Water is one of his signature dish.) The latter is a clear soup with langoustine and clams but cold. The way to taste it is to have a spoonful of water and then a spoonful of tomato soup. Water cleans your palate and, therefore, brings out the richness of the tomoto fragrance.
When comparing the two, Roland's soup is even more concentrate whereas Ricky's has additional sweetness from the carrot & basil.
4a, Spaghetti Pasta with Sauteed Garlic Prawns in Lobster Sauce
Pasta 非常 al dente, 飽浥了lobster sauce 的精華,味道濃郁彈牙,配以蒜茸大蝦更加惹味,真係好好食,唔知仲以點形容!!
煮一道意粉,除了意粉本身要新鮮及彈牙煙靱之外,分別在於意粉能否跟醬汁混為一體.原來意粉係唔應該過泠河,此舉只會令意粉收縮,影響到它吸收醬汁的能力.
4b, Black Truffle Scented Carbonara Pasta (not on May menu, a special request by us)
Here comes the hightlighted of the evening. First come to the table is a strong frangrant of black truffle, then a beautiful dish with a cheese biscuit at the top, semi-boiled egg in the middle and penne at the bottom.
賣相很獨特,面層是一片像個網的芝士脆餅,蓋著的是一隻白色啲温泉蛋,cheese帶鹹,light & crunchy.弄穿了的温泉蛋汁原來跟creamy 啲carbonara sauce是完美的配塔,錦上潻花!Black truffle favor brings scent while cheese brings a salty taste to the pasta. 黑松露的香並沒有蓋過 creamy sauce的蛋香,把原本可以簡單的Pasta with Carbonara sauce 變成了一道香味跟口感同樣複雜的菜式.
溫泉蛋的製作全憑經驗,朋友以為需要加醋幫助蛋白凝固,原來此乃 egg benedit 的做法,溫泉蛋是只用水煮,要靠技巧.
2個pasta風格完全唔同,各有喜愛.我卻始終鐘情前者,喜歡lobster sauce's strong taste.
5a, Roasted US Prime Rib Eye with Sauce Bearnaise
牛扒也是 slow cook的,有牛肉味及軟腍腍.Sauce Bearnaise是吃steak的靈魂,it looks simple but would takes years of practice for the result to be perfect, 是用蛋黃,牛油跟香草做的,調得很好味.
但相比另一主菜,牛扒就無咪驚喜!
5b, Pan-Seared "Catch of The Day" Fish Fillet with Seafood Boudin and Chive Beurre Blanc
Catch of The Day tonight is 馬頭,是本地魚,厚身的海馬頭並非經常有,魚肉幼滑,適合用作西菜pan-fry grilled. 雖然我是魚痴,但吃西菜多半不會選擇魚,怕佢嚡或無味.如果個sauce調得唔好就更糟糕.
今晚卻是意料之外,同枱朋友皆稱未嚐過這樣滑的西魚,簡直令他們對西菜的魚改觀,可見高手的功力,我卻亦是第一次嚐馬頭,從前聽都未聽過,亦唔知西餐可以用本地魚做,一般都是dover sole, salmon, sea brass, etc.
除了馬頭外,我最欣賞那件貌似魚餅的 seafood boudin, 是用帶子,蟹肉及蛋白做的,口感飲綿綿,有鮮味,非常好吃. 本來boudin means kind of meat sausage, 起初以為是雜肉.
6, Dessert Du Jour
甜品的名稱為opera,賣相似幅畫,由一片chocolate and a Bailey ice cream組成. 個雪糕食唔到咪酒味,蛋糕就有濃郁的朱古力味.
唔食cream的朋友就來了一客fruit salad sorbet.清新輕盈.
最後送上coffee and tea. Ricky 亦是這時才有空出大廳與客人交談,跟傳說中一樣,是攜著一杯紅酒的.
交談中,得知他的另一拿手菜式是西班牙海鮮飯,但因為份量大,需要有20-30的宴會才會訂此菜式.而餐廳亦已計劃於七月中搬到灣仔,那時會更加方便. 我們已在相議組團到訪,於七月中再嚐一頓西班牙餐!
張貼
