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2023-11-20
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This Japanese restaurant is specialized in kushiage, batter-dipped deep-fried skewers. Apart from its outlets in Japan, the brand has also got overseas branches in Europe, and this one in Hong Kong has opened in February 2023, in TST.We are seated at the counter to look at the chef’s preparation and cooking up close. There are also tables on the side to cater for bigger groups or those who want more privacy. The décor is neat and tidy, with a cozy ambience.We order the omakase menu, with each sk
This Japanese restaurant is specialized in kushiage, batter-dipped deep-fried skewers. Apart from its outlets in Japan, the brand has also got overseas branches in Europe, and this one in Hong Kong has opened in February 2023, in TST.
We are seated at the counter to look at the chef’s preparation and cooking up close. There are also tables on the side to cater for bigger groups or those who want more privacy. The décor is neat and tidy, with a cozy ambience.
We order the omakase menu, with each skewer costing $38, and the chef will continue to prepare the food until you are full and ask him to stop. To go with the kushiage I have a bottle of 山の壽 純米大吟醸 山田錦38 ($980).
The starting skewer is Wagyu Sirloin with Truffle Sauce 和牛サーロイン. The chef recommends us to eat in three steps, first with its original taste, then dipping in the homemade sauce, and the last bite together with the truffle paste. Rich in flavours, the batter is thin and not oily at all. Very good.
The second skewer is Angel Shrimp 天使の海老. The shrimp head has the paste inside, with the body sweet in taste and having a firm texture, apparently very fresh. While it is paired with the honey mustard sauce, I found the original taste is really the best. No wonder a signature of the restaurant.
The third skewer is Grilled Eel たれ焼鰻. The eel has been grilled with tare sauce, before deep-frying with batter. The chef has added a bit of Arima sansho, with the Japanese pepper adding a bit of spicy and numbness to the sweetened taste of the eel to balance.
The fourth skewer is Deep-Fried Pork Chuck Roll 豚肩ロール ゆかり揚げ. The Kagoshima pork chuck meat has nice flavours, tender and juicy, wrapping a piece of shiso for the fragrance. On the surface are some plum powders, and with a bit of salt this is another piece I like very much.
The fifth skewer is Cod with Green Yuzu 鱈と青柚子. The fish is actually toothfish, different from the typical cod, less oily and firmer in texture, and far better in making kushiage. The yuzu peel on top helps to give a bit of acidity to balance, with a bit of salt it is good in taste.
The sixth skewer is White Radish 大根 土佐揚げ. The radish has been braised well, soaking up the flavours of the dashi made from bonito. The chef then coats it with katsuobushi or bonito flakes before deep-frying. Dipping in the light soy sauce it is surprisingly delicious. Another must try.
The seventh skewer is Chicken Tenderloin with Mapo Sauce 鶏ささみ麻婆. The chicken tenderloin is deep-fried to medium level in order to retain its tenderness, with a bit of Mapo sauce to give the spicy and numbness but not excessive. Very delicious.
The eighth skewer is Chili Shrimp 海老チリ. The small chili is actually not spicy, only giving the fragrance and aromas. The shrimp is crunchy in texture, with the chili sauce on top, tasted like the Thai Sriracha sauce, giving a hint of hotness. I would prefer it to be a bit spicier though.
The ninth skewer is Bacon and Cheese Wrapped Quail Eggs うずらベーコンチーズ巻き. The bacon has a nice smoky and savoury taste, adding to the rich flavours of the yolk of the quail eggs. While it might look simple, with a bit of the homemade dipping sauce this is surprisingly good.
The tenth skewer is Foie Gras フォアグラ. With a few drops of lemon juice to balance the richness and heavy body of the liver, there is also a miso paste on top to enrich the flavours with some further savoury notes.
The eleventh skewer is Shiitake Mushroom Stuffed with Beef 椎茸牛肉詰め. The savoury taste of the minced beef is a good match with the earthy notes of the mushroom, and with a bit of the homemade sauce to bring forward the taste of the beef it is another piece I like.
The twelfth skewer is Salmon with Salmon Roe サーモンイクラ. Served on a small dish, the salmon is deep-fried beautifully, still moist and tender, with some tartar sauce on top, and then the chef adds an abundance of salmon roes to add to the umami notes. Delicious.
The thirteenth skewer is Truffle Flavored Naruto Kintoki Sweet Potato 鳴門金時トリュフ風味. The famous sweet potato from Tokushima has been mixed with some truffle paste, with good sweetness and the truffle flavours integrating well, good in taste also with a bit of salt.
The fourteenth skewer is Daikoku Shimeji Mushroom Pork Rolls 大黒しめじ豚肉巻き. The first bite is on the shimeji mushroom, best to dip with a bit of salt, while the pork on the second bite is a better complement with the homemade sauce.
The fifteenth skewer is Scallop 帆立. The scallop has been deep-fried to medium well, so that its texture will stay soft and not rubbery. Best to match with salt to bring out the original taste, but the honey mustard can also add a different dimension to the palate.
The sixteenth skewer is Lotus Root with Mentaiko 蓮根明太子. The crunchy texture of the lotus root is appealing, and while the flavours are light, the mentaiko on top helps to supplement with some spiciness, saltiness and umami. No need for any dipping sauce.
The seventeenth skewer is Okra with Minced Pork オクラ豚メンチ. Mixing the minced pork with the finely chopped okra gives a good bite, with the chef suggesting us to use salt and homemade sauce for dipping. Delicious.
The eighteenth skewer is Kisslip Cuttlefish with Flying Fish Roe 紋甲イカとびっこ. This cuttlefish has a thick body, not chewy in texture. On top is the marinated flying fish roe which brings umami and some saltiness as condiment for the cuttlefish. Very nice.
The nineteenth skewer is Abalone 鮑. Tasting the original flavours, the first bite is just using salt as condiment, while the second bite is with a bit of the abalone liver paste, enhancing the flavours to another level.
The twentieth skewer is Sangen Pork Tenderloin 三元豚ヒレ. Using three types of pork and mixing them together, the texture is soft and flavourful. With spring onion and grated daikon oroshi to complement, it is filling and delicious.
The twenty-first skewer is Gingko Nuts 銀杏. A seasonal delicacy, the gingko nuts has less bitterness in taste, and the chef also only use batter on the first piece, leaving the rest uncoated, allowing us to experience how they taste differently.
The twenty-second skewer is Pumpkin Beef Rolls 南瓜牛肉巻き. The local beef has a good fatty level, and together with the pumpkin it is rich in taste. As a result, the chef suggests us to pair with the homemade sauce to balance the flavours.
The twenty-third skewer is Mushroom and Cheese with Truffle Salt マッシュルームチーズ トリュフ塩. The mushroom is meaty with a nice earthy note, and the cheese has added a bit of creamy texture, with the truffle salt wrapping up the palate by its signature flavour.
The twenty-fourth skewer is Mackerel with White Sesame 胡麻鯖. The mackerel has been marinated with vinegar beforehand, and then coated with sesame to deep-fry. Dipping with honey mustard, the fragrance of the sesame is pleasant.
The twenty-fifth skewer is Minced Beef 牛肉のミンチ. The taste and texture remind me of the burger patty, with the chef recommending us to use the homemade sauce to pair. Interestingly, this one is somehow not on the menu.
The twenty-sixth skewer is Oyster 牡蠣. Bursting with the juice on the bite, the oyster is flavourful and is best matched with the honey mustard. A rewarding and very full meal, and a feat for us in finishing all the 26 items on the menu.
Service is nice, with the staff attentive and courteous. The total bill is $3,304. Discussing with the chef we understand the difficulty in operating a kushiage restaurant in HK because people are worried about the deep-frying being unhealthy. But this restaurant has showcased how it can be done well to change that perception.
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