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2018-09-10
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Central is notorious for not having enough authentic Japanese restaurants--let alone serious sushiya where seasoned sushi masters are the soul of a typically small-ish restaurant. Sushi Ono would seem to be the exception, however, and despite not being a big fan of raw fish in general myself I must testify that it may be among the best sushi places in the heart of Central. Like many sushiya in Hong Kong, the kitchen tries to cater to a wider audience by serving some hot dishes, but unlike in mos
Sushi Ono is homed in an unassuming building on Stanley Street, occupying an entire floor that is fairly small but cozy. The only limitation seems to be that the place lacks a sense of community typical of generations-old sushiya in Japan where diners gather around the sushi bar to have a piece of the action, which could be fine, if only the restaurant offered an alternative atmosphere for diners to have somewhat more of a private bonding time over food and drinks. Instead, too many servers crowded around a few tables meant that there was always at least one standing so close they could overhear every word.
All in all, I would highly recommend the place to lovers of sushi/ sashimi who work or happen to be in Central.
Food Rundown
My partner had the more expensive omakase set while I chose grilled lobster and cooked seasonal fish à la carte. I tried to taste a little bit of his set whenever possible so I could share my thoughts here.
- Omakase Kaiun -
Bitesize Starters:
Diced Buri
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Grilled Abalone
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Diced Buri (Yellowtail / 鰤) and Grilled Abalone (鮑)
Buri clearly wasn't the highlight of the evening, but abalone was excellent.
Sashimi:
Horse Mackerel
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Seaweed Aji (Horse Mackerel / 鯵) Wrap
Extremely fresh and rich, with a melt-in-the-mouth kind of texture. One of my partner's favorites.
Octopus, suckers and whelk
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Octopus (蛸), Octopus Suckers (吸盤) and Tsubugai (Sea Whelk / 螺貝)
Tasty, crunchy bites to keep us going. The octopus was well prepared--soft, non-rubbery and not tough to chew. Tsubugai was fresh and crisp.
Katsuo and Sanma
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Katsuo (鰹) and Sanma (Japanese Mackerel/ 秋刀魚)
Katsuo was a true delicacy with a strong meaty taste, complemented well by the spring onion topping. Sanma was perfectly in season and its richness make a great pair with katsuo. (Katsuo is commonly mistaken as skipjack tuna, but is in fact closer to the mackerel family.)
Otoro
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Otoro (Pink Fatty Tuna / 大とろ)
The otoro was seared on the outside and paired with shiso and seaweed. Flavor was intense with the most satisfying texture and richness ever. The star of the evening.
Off the Grill:
Grilled Lobster
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Grilled Lobster (half)
This is Ise-Ebi, a Japanese spiny lobster, with the looks of a baby lobster and the texture of the freshest crayfish. Though August is still not the best time for the cream of the crop, the flesh was moist, firm and not too chewy, and the mayo-buttery glaze made every bite a delight.
Sushi:
Sushi Platter
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Otoro (大とろ); Tai (Sea Bream / 鯛); Grilled Tai; Makigai (Conch / 巻貝); Ebi (Prawn / えび) with Crab Roe
Every piece was perfect. The ebi was especially memorable with roe. Many sushi restaurants tend to serve very cold, nearly freezing raw fish to ensure they do not smell fishy, but the lower temperature also tends to compromise the flavor profiles of the sashimi. Here, the fish is less cold, which enables us to discern and enjoy different kinds of fish and their unique flavors.
Sushi Platter
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Sea urchin (雲丹); Tamagoyaki (Rolled Omelette); Black Cod (銀鱈)
Uni was a disappointment as it wasn't as fresh as we hoped it'd be. And I wasn't too impressed by their creative tamagoyaki which tasted more like a castella cake than anything. Not that I have anything against cakes, but I'd have liked it better after the meal. Cod was excellent, however.
Hand Roll:
Tuna Temaki
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Tuna Temaki Roll
A third way to enjoy tuna. More subtle this time, but no less of a delight on the palate.
Soup and Dessert
Soup and Dessert
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A clear broth with assorted mushrooms and coriander
Light and aromatic. A good way to dampen the appetite and call it a night.
Honeydew
Pretty damn good!
- A la carte -
Hamachi Kama
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Cooked Yellowtail Fish Collar (Hamachi Kama)
This came with some really springy, silky tofu and a piece of juicy mushroom. The centerpiece was three thick cuts of yellowtail collar with even "marbling" (if I may use that word to describe fish). This kama section (just behind the head and gills) has a tender texture (not to be taken for granted for cooked hamachi) and the fattiness made it very satisfying.
Grilled Lobster
See comment above.
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