L'Eclair de Genie (已結業)

Item: L'Eclair de Genie
Rating: 5
Author: eatson0502

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101

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$51-100

法國菜西式糕點

eatson0502

等級4

170

I've been wondering what kind of food might survive in this postmodern dining world--there're so many shops selling the so-called 'popular' / 'trendy' food , like mille-crepes, matcha desserts, souffle pancakes, in town. Yes, some of the shops are good, while some don't. Sometimes, as a customer, I find boring when what I can choose is so alike. Until today, I found out the answer here after my visit to L'Eclair de gene at Admiralty. Perhaps, the insistence to tradition and artistic creation co

I've been wondering what kind of food might survive in this postmodern dining world--there're so many shops selling the so-called 'popular' / 'trendy' food , like mille-crepes, matcha desserts, souffle pancakes, in town. Yes, some of the shops are good, while some don't. Sometimes, as a customer, I find boring when what I can choose is so alike. Until today, I found out the answer here after my visit to L'Eclair de gene at Admiralty. Perhaps, the insistence to tradition and artistic creation could bring us a light to our foodscape HK.

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What's so special about this shop and worth an introduction is their focus on selling the finger-like puff pastry, namely 'L'eclair' (the flash--because French people think they are so delicious that can be finished in a bolt of light.). Including L'eclairs in their name, it's both a risk and opportunity to tell their confidence in offering this traditional French pastry. Similar to the ball-shape puff, the eclair is not only different in shape, but also the texture. Quite often, it gives more density and airy quick finish. Since it is finger-shape, this actually increases the difficulty in piping the filling/pastry cream inside for there is little space to do the filling.

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As I shall introduce further, how's the fillings are alike, now let me introduce the design of their pastry first. In their pastry show window, you can see there are lots of vibrant colours and colour contrast that remind you of the four seasons and beautiful nature of Provence. You can also see how detailed the chef has cared about: the colour and thickness of the glaze, consistence of the length of eclairs, and mini decorations on top of the glaze. Out of my curiosity, I ordered a four-set eclairs ($38 -45 each) as lunch (yes, lunch) to have a taste and review of their eclairs.

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Here, they are!!! From left to right, they are No.117 Choco Grand Cru (chocolate--$45), No.122 Chantilly Fraise (strawberry chantilly--$48), No.234 Coconut Mango ($38) and No. 258 Vanilla Framboise (vanilla raspberry--$45).

No.122 Chantilly Fraise

To begin with, I follow the rule from light to strong, which in fact is already well-arranged by the shop. A small detail, but this certainly adds mark to the eye of a gourmet. So, I first tried the No. 258 Vanilla Framboise. Very sharp red colour, which is clearly a sign of well-cooked fruit in right temperature that the colour is not darkened. The pastry is light and thin,with hint of browned butter which would not overpower the flavour of the fruit. This is important to know because many pastry shops only know how to add more butter to add flavour, yet overlooks the importance to balance. For French people, they only add touch a brown butter to give colour and body, but not strong aroma as in tarts. This is definitely beautifully cooked.

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As I took a big bite of it, the acidity of the fresh fruit puree is sweetened by the cold vanilla cream. Small temperature contrast further highlights the two textures--soft (cream) and firm (pastry) mingling together.

No. 234 Coconut Mango

Then, I tried the No. 234 Coconut Mango after rinsing my mouth with some water. Wow, I'd tell you this is the most interesting French pastries I've had!!! So genius that the chef makes it taste so 'Yeung Chi Kam Lo'--a Chinese sweet soup made with coconut milk, mango puree and pomelo. It's my first time tasting a pastry cream that uses coconut milk, as my tongue tells. This tastes so Hong Kong and at the same time French; how wonderful and creative the chef is! Also, there is sago added inside the cream and on top which gives you the lovely bite on your tongue! The sweetness and acidity of the mango combine together with the coconut milk which gives you the mild, creamy flavour of the mango; truly delicious!!!! Worth another picture of it!

No. 234 Coconut Mango

Then, I tried the No.122 Strawberry Chantilly.

N. 258 Vanilla Framboise

Chantilly is the French pastry terminology signifying whipped cream with vanilla. Lightly whipped with the scent of fresh vanilla (seeds), this pastry is more simple and tradition that showcases the body of the pastry. In this one, I can taste more 'baked tone--buttery flavour' since the filling and topping are lighter than others. With small French strawberries, all together is clean flavour. Again, the texture of the eclairs is very consistent!

No.117 Choco Grand Cru

Finally, I tried the No.117 Choco Grand Cru (Dark Chocolate)! Again, this is beautifully design. First, the glaze is perfectly tempered and glazed--not too thick or thin, but right covers the body and any drop is dropped on the waist of the eclair. Second, the golden and silver chocolate squares look grand in the French sense--high-class but not the literal meaning big! Tasted dark rich chocolate flavour, the thin glaze will not add heaviness to the eclair base.

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As a dessert lover, a full mark must be given to all the four eclairs. In turn.........I....... ordered one extra ice-cream in the shop (encore!) because they are really so good and properly, I have to complain they're so light and not heavy that I need more!!!!

Indeed, this is also my first time seeing ice-cream in this shop and about to know this is the latest item added in summer after the renovation of this branch. I tasted the passion fruit & rose, but this was quite acidic >.< So, I ordered another one: dark chocolate brownie instead!!

Chouger Glace--Chocolate Brownie

Surprisingly, the ice-cream is not served on the scone, but on a circle puff pastry plate! Looks cute!!! I haven't though about this is an ice-cream sandwich and so cute that this is being wrapped/placed on top of the newspaper-like sheet. Beautifully designed, it's easy for me to hold and eat, too. The rich flavour and dense texture tell me this is made of 70% dark chocolate and used really a lot of it in there. As I looked at the receipt, this is actually called Chouger Glace--Chocolate Brownie ($58). I will remember this and ordered it next time again. One last point to tell is the puff pastry base is quite spongy and there is little water content in it, so you'll feel like eating a cold sandwich with great texture!! Highly recommended!

Chouger Glace--Chocolate Brownie

If you come by Admiralty or Wan Chai, do visit this shop and check out the latest ice-cream sandwich and also their beautiful eclairs. Although the price is not cheap, but this tastes the same as I tried in France--very traditional. The skillful masterpieces are unlikely to be imitated by other shops which imitates a lot. For their traditional and creative rendition of eclairs, this is really worth a try, especially for celebrations or in good time that you want to reward yourself after five-day work! Indeed, I haven't been so excited about desserts for quite some time!!!! Would you tell in my writing?

(以上食評乃用戶個人意見 , 並不代表OpenRice之觀點。)

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用餐日期

2017-07-22

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$150 (午餐)

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